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Elevator Question: 09-18

Stockmanreef

Well Known Member
I have a couple of questions. Both of which might be dumb:

1. The plans indicate to shim up the back of the E-1008B by 4 mm for putting in rivets. Any particular reason that you can't just cleco on the E-1008A ribs as the shim.

2. How do most people rivet the skin to the rear spar at this point. Use the special bucking bar from 09-17 or just a regular bucking bar? If a regular bucking bar, then why not just cleco on the skin to the ribs, flip over and buck the rivet with the bar on top and the rivet gun from below with the skin hanging over the edge of the bench. this way no shimming is required.


Just curious

thanks
 
The long speciality bucking bar worked perfect. I was hesitant to buy one just for this step but I'm glad I did because: 1)I knocked out those rear spar rivets in less than 10 minutes 2)It has come in handy for a few hard to reach places elsewhere in the build.

I'm sure it can be done without it but it sure makes life easy.
 
I understand that the special bucking bar has to be used with the attachment of the second skin. I was wondering about attaching the first skin to the spar.

Or are people using it for attaching both skins?
 
Elevator question

I just did this last weekend. I did it as the plans suggest and used a 1/4 piece of plywood under the ribs to keep the flange of the rear spar flat against the edge of the workbench. (Actually, I used the edge of the 6' back-riveting plate I made). I don't see any reason that attaching the other half of the ribs wouldn't work off the top of my head. I just didn't think of that and I had the plywood handy. I clamped the rear spar to the plate and used a regular tungsten bar to set the rivets. Not easy to access but it worked. I will be ready to rivet the other side soon. I did purchase the recommended bar from Cleveland and I'm relieved to hear that it works well. If I can do it in 10 minutes, it's worth the money!
 
I have a couple of questions. Both of which might be dumb:

1. The plans indicate to shim up the back of the E-1008B by 4 mm for putting in rivets. Any particular reason that you can't just cleco on the E-1008A ribs as the shim.

2. How do most people rivet the skin to the rear spar at this point. Use the special bucking bar from 09-17 or just a regular bucking bar? If a regular bucking bar, then why not just cleco on the skin to the ribs, flip over and buck the rivet with the bar on top and the rivet gun from below with the skin hanging over the edge of the bench. this way no shimming is required.


Just curious

thanks

As this is an old question I wonder what the OP ended up doing and how it worked.

clecoing the 1008A on might work you would have to check the angles from the side of the table.

I used a pneumatic squeezer.
 
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