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  #1  
Old 04-04-2009, 06:40 PM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Default The mysteries of the DSUB shell (ELT installation)

I know this is a stupid question but I'm beyond being concerned about that. .

I just made the ELT end connection in a dsub connection for my ARTEX 406 ME ELT. So now I've got two plastic shells (I can figure out how those go together) and a bunch of screws nuts and a couple of tabular gizmos and I have no idea how they all fit together.

Can someone point me to a diagram for how a typical DSUB shell is assembled?

Also -- in the event someone has installed one of these -- can someone confirm that a ground wire from pin 7 of the ELT-end connector is spliced onto the the shielding and then is connected by a similar method at pin 6 of the remote switch connector, and then a wire is run from pin 9 to local ground?

Here's the manual. I want to make sure I'm reading iit correctly.
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Old 04-04-2009, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Collins View Post
....
Also -- in the event someone has installed one of these -- can someone confirm that a ground wire from pin 7 of the ELT-end connector is spliced onto the the shielding and then is connected by a similar method at pin 6 of the remote switch connector, and then a wire is run from pin 9 to local ground?

Here's the manual. I want to make sure I'm reading iit correctly.
...your interpretation of the schematic of Figure 10 in the manual is correct....
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  #3  
Old 04-04-2009, 07:18 PM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Great. Thanks, Gil!
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  #4  
Old 04-04-2009, 07:18 PM
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Bob,

Look at this picture to see how I used small tiewraps to hold the shells together.
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  #5  
Old 04-04-2009, 07:21 PM
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Oh, I like that Bill. You've got the most helpful stuff on your site.
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  #6  
Old 04-05-2009, 09:52 AM
woxofswa woxofswa is offline
 
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I just went through this myself making a connection for my trim servo.
What you need are little screw combos that consist of a threaded male screw that on one end is screwed into a hollow threaded female hex. That unit screws onto one half of the dsub and allows the retained screw in the other half of the dsub to screw into that, binding the two together.
You would think they would come with the pieces, but they don't.
The good news is they are readily salvagable from the back ports of old computers or peripherals.
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  #7  
Old 04-05-2009, 12:56 PM
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Bill's solution looks nice - hadn't seen it done that way before!

I, like Myron, have been salvaging bits and pieces of computers for decades, and have quite an assortment of little screws and nuts to join D-Subs. I use a screw and a double-female on one side, cranked down tight with a little lock-tight. Then the other side just has a typical captured screw, and that becomes the "active" side when attaching.

Paul
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  #8  
Old 09-18-2017, 10:36 AM
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To continue this older thread with an add on question...how does one snug up the wire bundle leaving the dsub shell? Most of my bundles are just a few wires and while they get adeled or fixed fairly shortly after leaving the shell, it would be nice to have them solid as the depart the shell.
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exercise View Post
To continue this older thread with an add on question...how does one snug up the wire bundle leaving the dsub shell? Most of my bundles are just a few wires and while they get adeled or fixed fairly shortly after leaving the shell, it would be nice to have them solid as the depart the shell.
Wrapping the bundle with a bit of self-fusing silicone tape (aka rescue tape) works.
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  #10  
Old 09-18-2017, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exercise View Post
To continue this older thread with an add on question...how does one snug up the wire bundle leaving the dsub shell? Most of my bundles are just a few wires and while they get adeled or fixed fairly shortly after leaving the shell, it would be nice to have them solid as the depart the shell.
Typically, you would slide some heat shrink over the wires before inserting the pins into the D-Sub. The heat shrink would be clamped into the back-shell, if you have one.

If you forget, Teflon tape works well too.
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