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  #1  
Old 07-06-2018, 05:31 PM
Jwputnam Jwputnam is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Marco Island, FL
Posts: 92
Default scat tube interference

Having a difficult time trying to route my cabin heat scat tube . Every direction seems to either hit an exhaust pipe or interfere with a cable. Worst problem is that it interferes with the throttle linkage as it comes off of the heater box.

I am running an IO-320 with vertical induction.

Anyone have photos of their routing?
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  #2  
Old 07-18-2018, 11:05 AM
nedricher nedricher is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 76
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Can't find my pictures right now but I know I used a metal 2 inch 90 degree fitting on the firewall cabin heat box.
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  #3  
Old 07-18-2018, 12:48 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Location: 08A
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You live it Florida? Ditch the hot air heater. Install an electrical plug for hot vests, if you're really worried about it.

These things have great solar heaters.
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  #4  
Old 07-18-2018, 01:28 PM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
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I'm in SE Georgia, near Savannah, and have no heat tube from the airbox to the heat muff. Heat muff to firewall valve only. Works fine down to about 20F but mostly just keeps your feet warm at that temp.

This fall, I'll install the seat warmers that Santa brought last year. Wires were run during construction so it won't be a big task.
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  #5  
Old 07-18-2018, 04:35 PM
Mark33 Mark33 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Baton Rouge, La.
Posts: 423
Default Second oil cooler for a heat source.

I hope this isn’t too much of a thread drift, but has anybody ever used a second oil cooler specifically as heat source for cabin heat? I would think that it would provide some really nice "soft" heat. I would think that you could make an entry and exit plenum and cap both sides of the oil cooler and then just route a 1.5” or 2” scat tube from the engine bafflel to supply the airflow and then connect the exit side to the cabin heat in-box as normal. I would think that if you were to make the oil cooler plenums with internal baffles so that the incoming air would have to make several passes through the fins prior to exiting, that that would give the air time to heat up sufficiently to make it an excellent cabin heat source.

Mark

Last edited by Mark33 : 07-18-2018 at 05:03 PM. Reason: Typo
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  #6  
Old 07-19-2018, 08:31 AM
YvesCH YvesCH is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Basel, Switzerland
Posts: 126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark33 View Post
I hope this isn’t too much of a thread drift, but has anybody ever used a second oil cooler specifically as heat source for cabin heat? I would think that it would provide some really nice "soft" heat. I would think that you could make an entry and exit plenum and cap both sides of the oil cooler and then just route a 1.5” or 2” scat tube from the engine bafflel to supply the airflow and then connect the exit side to the cabin heat in-box as normal. I would think that if you were to make the oil cooler plenums with internal baffles so that the incoming air would have to make several passes through the fins prior to exiting, that that would give the air time to heat up sufficiently to make it an excellent cabin heat source.

Mark
No I haven`t but my Dad has a RANS Coyote which has a liquid cooled Rotax 912. He has a valve which directs the cooling water to a second water cooler which is mounted inside the cabin. On top of this cooler is a small fan which blows air through the cooler. It works amazingly well and there is no danger of CO inside the cabin. And if the engine once gets hot you can even cool it down by switching on the cabin heat.. (ok the Pilot starts to sweat even more)
Downside: More weight and 2 more firewall penetrations.
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  #7  
Old 07-20-2018, 11:39 AM
findane findane is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 39
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I'm building a 9A in Naples FL, and ran into a similar problem. I shortened the heat muff, and turned the outlet 90 degrees. Now I have several options on the exhausts. Two 7 builders here in Naples told me they hardly ever used cabin heat even up to 12000 feet. The sun coming through the canopy was more than sufficiant
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Old 07-20-2018, 01:04 PM
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airguy airguy is offline
 
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Location: Garden City, Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by findane View Post
I'm building a 9A in Naples FL, and ran into a similar problem. I shortened the heat muff, and turned the outlet 90 degrees. Now I have several options on the exhausts. Two 7 builders here in Naples told me they hardly ever used cabin heat even up to 12000 feet. The sun coming through the canopy was more than sufficiant
True - I only use the heat above about 12,000 ballpark during the winter, and not at all during the summer even up to 17,500 here in Texas.
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  #9  
Old 07-20-2018, 02:56 PM
rvmv rvmv is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 44
Default Pics

Just got through finding a way for my 9A. Would be glad to send pics if you send me your email address. I don't know how to post them here.

2mev123@gmail Michael Vaughan
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  #10  
Old 07-20-2018, 04:33 PM
YellowJacket RV9 YellowJacket RV9 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL / KZPH
Posts: 1,144
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I am searching my archives for a good picture, but what I ended up doing was using a large adel clamp on a standoff on the FAB that holds the SCAT tubing away from the throttle cable and exhaust. It is still somewhat close to the exhuast but there is a heat shield in place and after 250ish hours the tube is in perfect condition. I have an O-320, but I believe the layout is somewhat similar.

Chris
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