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scat tube interference

Jwputnam

Well Known Member
Having a difficult time trying to route my cabin heat scat tube . Every direction seems to either hit an exhaust pipe or interfere with a cable. Worst problem is that it interferes with the throttle linkage as it comes off of the heater box.

I am running an IO-320 with vertical induction.

Anyone have photos of their routing?
 
Can't find my pictures right now but I know I used a metal 2 inch 90 degree fitting on the firewall cabin heat box.
 
You live it Florida? Ditch the hot air heater. Install an electrical plug for hot vests, if you're really worried about it.

These things have great solar heaters.
 
I'm in SE Georgia, near Savannah, and have no heat tube from the airbox to the heat muff. Heat muff to firewall valve only. Works fine down to about 20F but mostly just keeps your feet warm at that temp.

This fall, I'll install the seat warmers that Santa brought last year. Wires were run during construction so it won't be a big task.
 
Second oil cooler for a heat source.

I hope this isn’t too much of a thread drift, but has anybody ever used a second oil cooler specifically as heat source for cabin heat? I would think that it would provide some really nice "soft" heat. I would think that you could make an entry and exit plenum and cap both sides of the oil cooler and then just route a 1.5” or 2” scat tube from the engine bafflel to supply the airflow and then connect the exit side to the cabin heat in-box as normal. I would think that if you were to make the oil cooler plenums with internal baffles so that the incoming air would have to make several passes through the fins prior to exiting, that that would give the air time to heat up sufficiently to make it an excellent cabin heat source.

Mark
 
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I hope this isn’t too much of a thread drift, but has anybody ever used a second oil cooler specifically as heat source for cabin heat? I would think that it would provide some really nice "soft" heat. I would think that you could make an entry and exit plenum and cap both sides of the oil cooler and then just route a 1.5” or 2” scat tube from the engine bafflel to supply the airflow and then connect the exit side to the cabin heat in-box as normal. I would think that if you were to make the oil cooler plenums with internal baffles so that the incoming air would have to make several passes through the fins prior to exiting, that that would give the air time to heat up sufficiently to make it an excellent cabin heat source.

Mark

No I haven`t but my Dad has a RANS Coyote which has a liquid cooled Rotax 912. He has a valve which directs the cooling water to a second water cooler which is mounted inside the cabin. On top of this cooler is a small fan which blows air through the cooler. It works amazingly well and there is no danger of CO inside the cabin. And if the engine once gets hot you can even cool it down by switching on the cabin heat.. (ok the Pilot starts to sweat even more)
Downside: More weight and 2 more firewall penetrations.
 
I'm building a 9A in Naples FL, and ran into a similar problem. I shortened the heat muff, and turned the outlet 90 degrees. Now I have several options on the exhausts. Two 7 builders here in Naples told me they hardly ever used cabin heat even up to 12000 feet. The sun coming through the canopy was more than sufficiant
 
I'm building a 9A in Naples FL, and ran into a similar problem. I shortened the heat muff, and turned the outlet 90 degrees. Now I have several options on the exhausts. Two 7 builders here in Naples told me they hardly ever used cabin heat even up to 12000 feet. The sun coming through the canopy was more than sufficiant

True - I only use the heat above about 12,000 ballpark during the winter, and not at all during the summer even up to 17,500 here in Texas.
 
Pics

Just got through finding a way for my 9A. Would be glad to send pics if you send me your email address. I don't know how to post them here.

2mev123@gmail Michael Vaughan
 
I am searching my archives for a good picture, but what I ended up doing was using a large adel clamp on a standoff on the FAB that holds the SCAT tubing away from the throttle cable and exhaust. It is still somewhat close to the exhuast but there is a heat shield in place and after 250ish hours the tube is in perfect condition. I have an O-320, but I believe the layout is somewhat similar.

Chris
 
Here's what I ended up doing, I took the air off the back of the #3 cylinder baffle, routed it forward right up against the cowling to the heat muff on #1, then the heat muff discharge is nestled up against the sump/block to come back aft to the heat door. It was a little interesting getting it in there but that's the only way I could get it routed with what I considered to be acceptable clearance from the exhaust heat.

otr.jpg
 
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