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Food for thought....know your emergency check!

Don Patrick

Well Known Member
I thought I would share this experience so that others may take something away from it.

Last evening I went for a quick flight in my 8 from my local airport to a BBQ about a 25 minute flight away. Nice enjoyable flight with no issues.

I have noticed that my right fuel tank drain has had a slight drip coming from it and my plan was to replace it this week with a new one.

So, I decided I would run my tank as low as I safely could instead of draining a large amount.

I have a D180 with capacitive plates that were calibrated about 74 hours ago. I have noticed that my left tank was far more accurate than my right tank and it was also time to do another recalibration.

On the way back home last evening, I was about 4.5 miles from the airport and decided to do some steep turns. I was showing about 5 gallons in my right tank and I had 16 gal in my left tank. I?m into about 270 degrees of a steep left turn and then it happened. My engine started to quit.

I was a 1000 ft AGL, and immediately rolled the wings level and picked a field and went to 90 kts. After realizing what happened, I immediately went into my FMS checks (fuel, mixture, switches) switched the fuel to the left tank, boost pump on, mixture rich, and checked mags on both. The engine sputtered and the came roaring back.

I immediately climbed and turned toward the airport came in and landed.

Number of lessons learned here...

I check my fuel levels before flight visually and do not rely on my EFIS, but I did push my luck with the level being at 5 gallons showing on the EFIS when I knew it wasn?t as accurate as my left tank.

I should have flown back on the left tank instead of trying to maximize my fuel burn from the right tank and physically drain it instead of burning it.

I realized how important it is to know your emergency checks and to act quickly and calmly. I?m fortunate that I have the opportunity to practice emergencies during our checkouts every year with the flying outfit I?m with. I also do checkouts on our staff, which I think had prepared me a little more for what happened.

Over 30 years of flying, I have only ever lost a mag...this was the first time I ever had the ?oh ****? moment.

If you ever get yourself in an unnecessary bind like I did, which can totally be prevented, always go FMS..Fuel, mixture, switches...and fly the plane.

I?m not sharing my stumble to get flamed. I just want others to hopefully learn from what mistake I made.

I changed the fuel drain...some fuel lube got into the o ring and trapped some debris. And after draining the tank, I had about 5 oz left.....not 5 gallons....

Cheers,


Don
 
Thanks for the reminder// Here's another story

Thanks for the reminder and lessons learned...Slightly off your topic, but since you were talking about safety, I thought I would throw this in...

About 10 days ago, I was flying on a very nice, beautiful day in my 7A tip-up. Not hot, no issues, 6 minutes from my home airport, which is very close to a large lake. While flying at 2800 feet, about 3 miles from the lake, out of absolutely NOWHERE, I hit a thermal/inversion/whatever you want to call it...

The airplane dropped..and I didn't. Hit my head on the canopy, which I thought was surely cracked, but wasn't. Felt like my wife hit me over the head with a frying pan. I feel I was very close to being "knocked out"..It knocked off my headset and gave me an instant severe headache (probably a mild concussion) and really rang my bell. I headed for the airport, made a straight in approach and landed without incident.

Lessons learned: I have a 5 point Hooker Harness, which I THOUGHT was properly adjusted, but apparently wasn't. I'm 6'1 and have about 3 inches clearance from headset to plexi. There was enough foam in the seat and play in my harness adjustment to send me into the canopy. I've been jostled like all of us, but in 40 years of flying, nothing like this. Sudden, violent..and potentially deadly.

When I got my wits back , I readjusted my Hookers until I was trussed up like a Thanksgiving turkey. They need to be tight almost to the point of very uncomfortable...until you can barely move, in my (new) opinion. This was totally my fault (not the harnesses) and avoidable. I will be smarter next time.

Please check your harnesses for proper adjustment...!
 
Hi Don, really good story, thank you for taking the time and being generous enough to share for our benefit. The proverbial chain was working against you. Add the steep turn maneuvering at 1000 feet to also stack the deck against you in terms of available time to diagnose issues. FMS was a great thing to fall back on. But more importantly, as you stated, you "flew the aircraft" when the dynamic situation began. On speed, landing site committed, etc. Just had enough time for that FMS flow too. Aviate, Navigate, Communicate. The thing forgotten sometimes is "mitigate" comes before the aviate, navigate and communicate part. One thing I personally got from reading about your situation was to always recall the plan for risk mitigation when planning a lower fuel state in one tank or when planning to switch tanks. Keep excess altitude, slam dunk landing field and no maneuvering ops in mind until the active tank is switched again to the full tank. Thanks again Don, glad it was a positive learning experience and glad the fuel drain was an easy fix too BTW!
 
Yeah, regarding the seatbelt adjustment story, because of the geometery of the way the seatbelts are anchored (at least in a -7A) it?s tough to get them adjusted so that you are securely restrained from vertical movement. This is particularly true for shorter folks whose shoulders are below the top of the seat backs. An extra cushion under the butt makes a lot of difference in that case; safer and better visibility as a side benefit.

Erich
 
Good to read real life stories:)
Most engines quit abruptly due fuel starvation unless of course there was nasty noises and or vibrations.
During my initial twin training my instructor switched one supply tank off to an engine without me noticing it, the donk stopped dead, that was a small poo event!
Just for the record both my drains had been dripping, I replaced them with both tanks about half full, there is a trick to it without needing to drain the tanks but I didn't want to put myself in the same situation as the author here:)
 
Question from a low-time piston pilot..

?some fuel lube got into the o ring and trapped some debris?

What the heck does this mean? I?m asking because someone recently advised me to use a fuel additive (Marvel Mystery Oil) and now I?m wondering if that?s a good idea; especially since I only have one fuel tank.

Thanks for sharing your experience Don.
 
Thanks for the reminder, keeping us safe!

Thanks Don, my takeaway is the calibration check for fuel readout. I have not been using that as I had float sensors and they are clearly not accurate above 7 gallons. I have not considered they would or could become inaccurate. The last time I did a use-by-tank flight I got one to 2 gal on one tank and it was pretty darn accurate. Not sure about the other. :eek:

Upcoming cross countries are not a good time to learn this . . .

My 10-Friend and I have been recently focusing on distractions that lead to potentially unsafe issues. This is a excellent reminder for an additional category!

Thanks again for sharing . .
 
?some fuel lube got into the o ring and trapped some debris?

What the heck does this mean? I?m asking because someone recently advised me to use a fuel additive (Marvel Mystery Oil) and now I?m wondering if that?s a good idea; especially since I only have one fuel tank.

Thanks for sharing your experience Don.

I think what Don is talking about is since ?fuel lube? is very think it made some debris stick to the o-ring and inhibit the fuel drain from sealing, hence the leak.

That?s why most keep extra o-rings on hand for the fuel drains. I also keep an extra fuel drain so I can swap them quickly and then clean the old one.
 
Thanks for taking the time and having the gumption to share your experience. After 6000 hours and nearly 40 years of flying, I am always humbled reading someone else's emergent experience and wonder how I would do if I were in that situation. These make me stop, think and re-assess my knowledge base and skills. Guess what I'll be doing on my next flight......
Glad you were on spot with your skills so you could share.
Best wishes,
David
 
Blessing in disguise

It is lucky you did your steep turns when you did. If not your engine failure could have happened at a time when you did not have the time or altitude to recover the engine.

Glad you made it home safely.
 
A few years ago, before leaving for Alaska, I ran both tanks dry intentionally (NOT on the same flight) to verify my fuel quantity gauges. 10,000' above my home airport. It was reassuring to know their accuracy prior to a long adventure.
 
About 10 days ago, I was flying on a very nice, beautiful day in my 7A tip-up. Not hot, no issues, 6 minutes from my home airport, which is very close to a large lake. While flying at 2800 feet, about 3 miles from the lake, out of absolutely NOWHERE, I hit a thermal/inversion/whatever you want to call it...

The airplane dropped..and I didn't. Hit my head on the canopy, which I thought was surely cracked, but wasn't. Felt like my wife hit me over the head with a frying pan. I feel I was very close to being "knocked out"..It knocked off my headset and gave me an instant severe headache (probably a mild concussion) and really rang my bell.

I doubt a thermal would do that, but wake turbulence from a heavy certainly could. The one time I encountered it in a Piper, in the middle of proverbial nowhere at many thousands of feet on a beautiful calm day, it felt like a mid-air collision, a definite "are the wings still on" moment. On a calm morning the wake can linger on for minutes after the heavy is out of sight. Thank the high wing loading of your RV for no broken bones...
 
I routinely do a ?functional check? of my float fuel gauges, the opportunity presents itself 2-3 times a year to burn 1 tank down to less than 1 gallon. I only do it in cruise at altitude and I?m ready to swap tanks. I haven?t run one dry yet and my gauges have maintained their low level accuracy, I figure 1 gallon on the gauge backed by the fuel pump is as accurate as I need to be. Plus I always second guess the guages against the fuel totalizer and the pump, it all needs to add up.
 
I doubt a thermal would do that

After smacking my head on the canopy and seeing stars from an errant thermal in central KS (devoid of heavy’s in low alt) I learned I needed to tighten my seat belt better on bumpy days. I now brief my passengers to pull the belts as tight as you can get them, then suck in your belly and pull them tighter.
 
A few years ago, before leaving for Alaska, I ran both tanks dry intentionally (NOT on the same flight) to verify my fuel quantity gauges. 10,000' above my home airport. It was reassuring to know their accuracy prior to a long adventure.

Just an FYI if you run the AFP FI pump (from the AFP manual):

WARNING
Airflow Performance and Bendix/Precision fuel injection systems are non-returning systems. In the event that a tank is run dry in flight, an air lock will be formed on the out let of the pumps. It is possible that the auxiliary pump will not pick up fuel, as the auxiliary pump cannot create enough air
pressure to over come the flow divider opening pressure, thus displacing the air and resume pumping fuel. It is not recommended to run a fuel tank dry in flight without adequate testing and proper documentation of the procedure for this operation.
 
I routinely do a ?functional check? of my float fuel gauges, the opportunity presents itself 2-3 times a year to burn 1 tank down to less than 1 gallon. I only do it in cruise at altitude and I?m ready to swap tanks. I haven?t run one dry yet and my gauges have maintained their low level accuracy, I figure 1 gallon on the gauge backed by the fuel pump is as accurate as I need to be. Plus I always second guess the guages against the fuel totalizer and the pump, it all needs to add up.

I have done exactly what you have except after landing I finished draining the tank into a marked container and compare the results. I refilled the tank two gallons at a time, dip and mark it on a wooden dowel every two gallons.

I dip my tanks before each flight and compare it with the fuel totalizer. Longer use of the boost pump will increase the spread. This is on a carb engine. Like you my gauges are off until the last 5 gallons.
 
Thanks for sharing, Don. Glad your brain kicked into overdrive in order to extricate you from a ticklish situation.

As for the fuel drains (CAV-110 or similar?) I've found they are surprisingly easy to change with very little fuel spillage. It takes some preparation to do it, but it's really not difficult.

Firstly, have a spare quick drain ready to go - I carry one in my fly-away kit, complete with a little zip-lock bag of pipe thread compound. Place a big pail or other container under the drain to catch the spillage. Lock the new quick-drain between your index finger and middle finger of your left hand (if right handed). Place your left hand immediately adjacent to the quick drain with your thumb at the ready. Use the appropriate wrench to loosen the faulty quick drain - turn it as quickly as you can and as soon as it drops from the hole plug the hole with your left thumb. Use your right hand to take the replacement quick drain from your left fingers and prepare to install it. Get it right up against your left thumbnail. Pull your left thumb out of the way and jam the quick drain into the hole, threading it in with your fingers, then with the wrench.

The last time I changed a quick drain (in the middle of the winter - dang that fuel is COLD!) I measured how much fuel I lost. Less than one cup.
 
Thanks for sharing, Don. Glad your brain kicked into overdrive in order to extricate you from a ticklish situation.

As for the fuel drains (CAV-110 or similar?) I've found they are surprisingly easy to change with very little fuel spillage. It takes some preparation to do it, but it's really not difficult.

Firstly, have a spare quick drain ready to go - I carry one in my fly-away kit, complete with a little zip-lock bag of pipe thread compound. Place a big pail or other container under the drain to catch the spillage. Lock the new quick-drain between your index finger and middle finger of your left hand (if right handed). Place your left hand immediately adjacent to the quick drain with your thumb at the ready. Use the appropriate wrench to loosen the faulty quick drain - turn it as quickly as you can and as soon as it drops from the hole plug the hole with your left thumb. Use your right hand to take the replacement quick drain from your left fingers and prepare to install it. Get it right up against your left thumbnail. Pull your left thumb out of the way and jam the quick drain into the hole, threading it in with your fingers, then with the wrench.

The last time I changed a quick drain (in the middle of the winter - dang that fuel is COLD!) I measured how much fuel I lost. Less than one cup.


Done that a few times over the years, one Thing to add, wrap a large rag around each arm just back from the hands, fuel always seems to run down ones arm regardless of what you are doing..lol
 
Done that a few times over the years, one Thing to add, wrap a large rag around each arm just back from the hands, fuel always seems to run down ones arm regardless of what you are doing..lol

BINGO! What he said, in spades. My apologies for having omitted this important step from my "how to" description.
 
I think what Don is talking about is since “fuel lube” is very think it made some debris stick to the o-ring and inhibit the fuel drain from sealing, hence the leak.

That’s why most keep extra o-rings on hand for the fuel drains. I also keep an extra fuel drain so I can swap them quickly and then clean the old one.

He is talking about "fuel lube", aka EZ-turn (brand name), and yes, it's thick, sticky stuff that can be a pain to get off...and a lot of people use too much of it.

That didn't explain to the questioner, though, that it's NOT what he is asking about. Fuel *additive* is something else. EZ-turn is used on fittings, primarily on flared tube fittings which should never be assembled dry (but again, it only takes a tiny amount, and then ONLY on the threads. Some people use it on NPT fittings like fuel drains, as well, to make a seal (although there are plenty of flame wars on here that will tell you it is not not not a thread *sealant*, which is technically correct).

So to the questioner...your fuel additive should not cause a stuck quick-drain.

ETA: Wait for it...wait for it...the inevitable MMO debate starts in 3...2...1... :)
 
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