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Fiberglass

dsm8

Active Member
Patron
I am about to order the fiberglass for the canopy fairing. AC Spruce Rutan bidirectional, 8.8 oz. Any thoughts for how much I need?

Thanks
 
One thing about fiberglass: it is very forgiving. If you don?t like the result sand it down and put another layer on. Practice first and learn where to use epoxy, slurry, flock and paste. Don?t use Kevlar cloth as it is tough to cut and sand.
 
Rutan cloth

FWIW, offering my (far from expert) experience...
I also ordered the Rutan cloth from ACS (couldn't find the uni-cloth recommended in the KAI at the time)
The Rutan cloth did a great job accommodating the curves. However that same characteristic made it a pain to keep in shape as you move it from the cutting table to the layup. That stuff just flexes all over the place, changes dimensions, and drove me crazy. Also, the lighter weight didn't build up as much as I'd expected.
I'm not unhappy with the result but I will have to do some filling in some spots while prepping for paint. Probably would have to anyway.
RECOMMENDATION: Save or duplicate the fabric cutting templates in case you need to redo a piece or two.
two-cents,
Dave
 
Fiberglass much less work

Look at Vikingaircraftengines on line They have completed fiberglass unit for about $250. you only have to glue it place and some minor trimming.
Save our $$ on materials and time.
 
I did mine of the 12 I built, but the one I bought had the "Viking Shield" I had heard bad things about it, but it actually looked better and was lighter than the one I made. Sure makes it quick and simple. On the other hand I had made lots of stuff with fiberglass, so it was not intimidating to me
 
I am no expert having only done the engine cowling. And do note that there is a big difference in movement if you cut fiberglass cloth at a 45 degree diagonal or along the threads. Also sandwiching wet cloth sandwiched between two pieces of plastic (I cut up a disposable trash bag), rolling off excess with a threaded pin, cutting the sandwich with a roller knife, removing one layer of plastic and laying the cut cloth down over wet layup is a neat trick. The remaining layer of plastic just peels off.

Jeff
 
FWIW, offering my (far from expert) experience...
I also ordered the Rutan cloth from ACS (couldn't find the uni-cloth recommended in the KAI at the time)
The Rutan cloth did a great job accommodating the curves. However that same characteristic made it a pain to keep in shape as you move it from the cutting table to the layup. That stuff just flexes all over the place, changes dimensions, and drove me crazy. Also, the lighter weight didn't build up as much as I'd expected.
I'm not unhappy with the result but I will have to do some filling in some spots while prepping for paint. Probably would have to anyway.
RECOMMENDATION: Save or duplicate the fabric cutting templates in case you need to redo a piece or two.
two-cents,
Dave

BID is pretty squirrelly ... I put the cut pieces on a piece of 2 mil polypropylene sheet (aviation paint isle at any HW store) ... wet it there with epoxy and sandwich it with another piece of plastic prior to transport to the plane. The sheet keeps everything in place nicely until you're ready to commit. Did a 4 ply layup for a tipper targa strip and it worked perfectly!
 
If you follow the manual, take your time and use some care you should have a good lay up. Stay away from the Viking part. It will never look as good as a good lay up. You can tell the canopies that have this part a mile away. I have a bud that used this part and put more time in getting it to look right than a a lay up would have taken. If workmanship and quality matter, stay away from it.
 
BID is almost any woven cloth. Unidirectional is useless for bidirectional loading, as almost all the fibers are aligned along a single axis.

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=311865&postcount=10

Cut all the pieces, stack 'em on clear 4 mil plastic sheet, add epoxy, add another plastic sheet, work it for wetting, roll the excess out to the edges, cut away that plastic and trash it, peel one side from the layup, place it on the airplane, peel the other sheet, stipple into place with a cut brush.
 
I ordered two yards and had a lot left over. BTW, I initially installed the Viking pre-formed shroud only to rip it off and layup one per the plans. It wasn't too difficult and you'll never get one to fit as good.
 
Don't use Viking part for ELSA

I checked with Van's and using the Viking canopy part will void the ELSA certification.
 
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