Trimming Rosen Visors?

I bought a set of Rosen visors for my RV10. I'm at the point that I'd like to install them, but I need to trim down one of the corners for it to fit around a custom fiberglass overhead switch "pod" I built in front of my overhead console.

I've got the shape I'd like figured out on some cheap plexiglas I got from the hardware store. But, now I need to trim the expensive tinted Rosens.

So, I have a few questions...

What's the best way to trim these down? On the cheapo plexi, I just sanded them down to what I needed and cleaned up the edge.

Second, when I trimmed the plexi, it gets a little warm. Does anyone know if this might discolor the tint on the rosens?

And third, once trimmed, I need to refinish the edge. The two methods I've seen for finishing acrylic edges are to flame treat them or to buff them. I think I'd rather buff them, as a torch on these things kinda scares me. Any comments on this?

I can't believe this post never received any responses

I'm very interested in using a torch to finish my canopy edges. This looks like a great way to relieve stress.

Here's a how to video.

It's a good way to lock in some thermal stresses that will lead to cracks. Don't do it.

Dave

If you can find someone close to you with a laser cutter/engraver, this is a trivial task.

Google "K40 laser acrylic" or similar for more info, but this is easy to do.

When working with Plexi or acrylic, I do large cuts with a cut off wheel and fine trimming/shaping with a belt sander. Once sized, used progressively finer grit sand paper by hand. You can get it to a true glass finish with enough work and buffing. I would not try to do this with a flame unless you practice quite a bit on scrap. I suspect it is very easy to end up with distortion in the edges that would be visible when looking through it.

I believe that most tinting of plexi/acrylic is done with dyes mixed in the liquid material and not a coating. therefore, you should not harm the tint with heat.