Gas leaking from tank rivets

Need help in selecting best repair of leaking rivets in RV-6 fuel tank.

It really depends on which rivets are leaking. Which bay and where in the by are they. Are several leaking in one section, or are they all over, ect.

Another factor is whether or not it is painted. Regardless, the sure thing is to remove the tank from the wing, cut an access hole in the rear baffle (if not accessible from the access hole at the wing root) and patch with proseal from the inside, reinstall access hole cover with proseal (parts from vans) similar to the access hole at the wing root.

Some folks have had success with drawing a bit of loctite (green i believe) in through the rivet from the outside and a tiny bit of suction. Search it here on the site.

Not familiar with a -6 but I can remove a tank on my -9 in about 30 minutes, sore arms, banged up knuckles and all. Ask me how I know

Dbro172 said:

Some folks have had success with drawing a bit of loctite (green i believe) in through the rivet from the outside and a tiny bit of suction. Search it here on the site.

Click to expand...

This was a process I documented several years ago, but used pliobond.
But yes, others have had success with loctite.

My bottom tank rivet has not leaked after 5 years.


Here's my original post from 9/5/2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanLandry View Post
I developed the same problem yesterday on a rivet close to the leading edge.

Once I get the fuel level below the rivet, instead of the vacuum, I was thinking of fabricating a syringe with a gasket & push the green loctite into the rivet area.

BTW, My plane's been flying 6 years and this developed yesterday.
Strange how these things crop up out of nowhere.

I'll provide an update when available.
This is an update on my original post.
Seven days into my fix of a weeping rivet, problem solved...

As stated above, I used a a syringe with a 1/2 diameter barrel. I cut & removed the needle mount to expose the 1/2" opening. I made sure the cut was clean & symetrical to allow a perfect seal when placing over the skin & weeping rivet. I used Pliobond as it has a slow cure and is chemical & gas resistant.

To begin the process the fuel level must be below the weeping rivet.
1. Remove the fuel cap.(this will allow a pressure variant)
2. Load a small amount of pliobond into the syringe.
3. Place the opening cut end over the weeping rivet and make sure you have a solid seal against the skin.
4. Depress the syringe. You should feel resistance if you have a solid seal against the skin & providing the push.
5. Repeat step #4 to insure enough pliobond consumes rivet.
6. Let cure for 48 hours to ensure proper seal.

Others have suggested green loctite, which may be a better product. But, I happen to have pliobond that I had previously used & was recommened by Lycoming for crankseal sealing.

Hope this works for your situation. It's a low cost alternative to what others have suggested. Now I just have to come up with a way to remove the blue fuel stain.
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What caused the leak in the first place?
I put mogas 98 octane in one tank of my RV4 and have been fighting weeping leaks in the upper skin of that tank. The bottom is OK, so I am assuming that the mogas has fumes that do the damage.

Dbro172 said:

Another factor is whether or not it is painted. Regardless, the sure thing is to remove the tank from the wing, cut an access hole in the rear baffle (if not accessible from the access hole at the wing root) and patch with proseal from the inside, reinstall access hole cover with proseal (parts from vans) similar to the access hole at the wing root.

Some folks have had success with drawing a bit of loctite (green i believe) in through the rivet from the outside and a tiny bit of suction. Search it here on the site.

Not familiar with a -6 but I can remove a tank on my -9 in about 30 minutes, sore arms, banged up knuckles and all. Ask me how I know

Click to expand...

I would not remove the tank or cut any holes unless there is no other access. If the leak is in the same cell as the fuel cap then you should have good access through the filler. You can also make a decent repair from the outside on some rivets.

They are in different bays on top. The paint is raised above the rivets and currently keeping the fuel from leaking. I realize cutting access holes may be necessary but hoping to find a
an easier fix. Thank your for the response. Joe

I suspect poor rivet setting and prosealing is the culprit. Thank you for the responde. Will try sealing from the outside first.