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Installing brakes drawings?

rockwoodrv9

Well Known Member
Patron
Is there any better drawings than C2 about how to install the Cleveland brakes?
My question is on the right brake, I will need to move the zirk fitting from the top to the bottom so I can put the blue 90 degree fitting to connect to my brake hose. When I try to take the zirk fitting out, it is very tight - to the point I am afraid I will damage it trying to remove it. That gives me cause to believe it is tight for a reason.

Am I missing a drawing or better instructions? Maybe I need to heat it a bit to loosen? Thanks
 
Last edited:
Is there any better drawings than C4 about how to install the Cleveland brakes?
My question is on the right brake, I will need to move the zirk fitting from the top to the bottom so I can put the blue 90 degree fitting to connect to my brake hose. When I try to take the zirk fitting out, it is very tight - to the point I am afraid I will damage it trying to remove it. That gives me cause to believe it is tight for a reason.

Am I missing a drawing or better instructions? Maybe I need to heat it a bit to loosen? Thanks

Yes, a heat gun or skillful application of a butane torch. They are just tight. Use loctite 567 on reassembly. Firmly restrain all the parts when removing.

I think you mean the bleed fitting? not zerk?? Right?? It is in an adapter. It is hollow with a tapered tip, easy to over tighten. Just the adapter is really tight.
 
Yes, a heat gun or skillful application of a butane torch. They are just tight. Use loctite 567 on reassembly. Firmly restrain all the parts when removing.

I think you mean the bleed fitting? not zerk?? Right?? It is in an adapter. It is hollow with a tapered tip, easy to over tighten. Just the adapter is really tight.

Correct Bill, it is the bleed fitting. The plan page is C2 rather than C4. The instructions are lacking as far as what I need to be assured I get them correct.

Thanks Bill.
 
Use a pen propane torch on a clean (no brake fluid) unit. Heat to warm to the touch around the part to be removed. With the bleeder seated, remove as a unit.
 
I'v never had to heat the cylinder to remove the fitting. Just used a GOOD box end wrench or 6 point socket and some grunt. However,

If you do heat the cylinder beware of the O ring that is inside on the piston. If you get the cylinder to hot you best replace the O ring. If you replace the O ring be sure to install the piston correctly. Long portion out.

Good luck
 
I was able to get it out by taking it to my friends hangar and using his vice and my big box end wrench. Im getting real close to first engine start so I need my brakes working so I can drive around the airport!!

Thanks for the help.
 
You might want to review your engine break in procedure before doing much driving around the airport. It would be a shame to glaze your cylinders??
 
First engine run, be sure to restrain the airplane with some tie downs or chocks. The fresh brake pads and rotors won't have much grip to keep you in one place. After a couple of static engine runs, be careful the first time you want to taxi it around. You'll really need to stomp on the brakes a few times to bed them in.
I just changed my brake pads and it has taken a few hard braking's to get them to feel like they will slow you down.
 
Glazing cylinders during ground runs

You might want to review your engine break in procedure before doing much driving around the airport. It would be a shame to glaze your cylinders??

Great point! At the A&P school I attended from '77-79, prior classes to ours overhauled both engines of a twin Baron; but the owner refused to fly it prior to the school putting at least ten hours on them! Therefore over the next year, each class would take it out and run the engines, and the following class the next semester would pull all the jugs off and de-glaze and reassemble them, and the next class would then put some more ground run hours on the engine. Crazy.

Doug Lomheim
RV-9A Mazda 13B / FWF
 
Just keep your engine test runs short and keep CHTs below 300 degrees F. I bedded the brakes by doing back-and-forth runs in front of my hangar. Hard braking from about 30 mph to 5 mph; accelerate; repeat about four times. Then let brakes cool for at least 30 minutes. They should grab a lot better at this point.

I did four-five engine test runs as described, with no glazing. I use less than a half quart of oil between 25-hour oil changes (engine currently has 165-ish hours).
 
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