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d sub connector parts

T

TShort

Well Known Member
I'm troubleshooting / attempting a patch for an autopilot issue in the new -10.

I've made a temporary cable that splits the output from the 430W to the EFIS and the autopilot. Unfortunately, the current wiring was not done well, and there is little to no slack in the existing cable. The current connector is secured with screws into the back of the radio stack, and appears to have small nuts on the back of it:

34171166383_8822b86e61_m.jpg


The connector I used for the cable is the same brand, but doesn't have any nuts or threads:

34138990204_dc661c1e96_m.jpg


Any ideas on what I can use to secure the new d-sub connector into the back of the radio stack? Is there a d-sub connector that has the threaded inserts built in?

Thanks in advance.
 
Just a word of caution here. Some of the connectors on the back of the 430 are standard d-sub pins; some use "high density" d-sub pins. Make sure you have the right ones. These connectors have to be fastened to the back of the rack just right, so they mate up with the 430's pins when it's inserted. If you're off by just a tiny fraction of an inch you'll bend the pins.
Bottom line: You need to use the exact same assembly as the original connector, or risk trouble.
 
Mike S said:
Mounting fasteners are usually with the back shell.
Click to expand...

Yup. But the connector in there now doesn't have a shell, and there is limited space. I'm trying to fit in something similar to what's there now.

BobTurner said:
Just a word of caution here. Some of the connectors on the back of the 430 are standard d-sub pins; some use "high density" d-sub pins. Make sure you have the right ones. These connectors have to be fastened to the back of the rack just right, so they mate up with the 430's pins when it's inserted. If you're off by just a tiny fraction of an inch you'll bend the pins.
Bottom line: You need to use the exact same assembly as the original connector, or risk trouble.
Click to expand...

I've got the exact same mil-spec 78 pin high density connector, so good to go there.

This is a temporary fix, and I realize it isn't ideal. I want to fly the plane for 6-8 months and plan to gut and redo the panel this winter.

Perhaps a back shell is the best approach (if I can fit it in) - any suggestions?

Thanks
 
Thomas,

Typically the "jackscrews" come with the backshells for the connectors. The backshell has a strain relief for the wires and it provides the attachment hardware. In a bind you can use short 4-40 screws but this is not a suggested method. Go to mouser.com or digi-key.com and search for backshell.
 
Ray-

Thanks for the response.

The backshells I've seen seem to accommodate jackscrews that attach the d-sub connector to the device from the back (wire) side; this particular connector is attached with screws from inside the radio tray, on the "pin" side (specifically the P1001 below).

34149343624_4b10e1b1d6_b.jpg


I'm learning a lot of this as I go, so if I am missing something with respect to the backshells let me know. I've not found one that would accept the screws from the front as in the image above.

Thanks again,
 
I have no knowledge of the exact mounting configuration that you are referring to, just general electronics experience. There are a couple of general solutions. Garmin I'm sure has the "correct" solution.

There are d connectors which have built-in female jackscrews. I'm not sure if these are available with insertable contacts but I think they are. These could then be used with a backshell for wire strain relief and then not use the standard included hardware. I prefer the Amp (now tyco or te) brand connectors for high quality.
 
D-Sub connector

Tom,

You have one part that you need. The shell that you need is Garmin Part no. 330-00220-50 and 330-00185-78. There is also a clamp that mounts on the first part that will hold your wire bundle in place. A must to prevent a wire from breaking by vibration. The part you showed is Garmin Part no. 125-00045-00.

Do a search or call you local Garmin dealer, or SteinAir and see if they might have one laying around. You also will need the two screws to hold in place. The whole kit would cost you an arm and leg, and maybe your first born.

If you send me an email at [email protected], I will send you a picture of all the part numbers you would need.

Good luck.

Brian
 
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There are d-subs with built in jackscrews, but those with crimped / insertable connectors are special order with lengthy lead times on all the sites I've seen (digikey, etc).

My understanding is Garmin used to use brackets like this:

s-l225.jpg


but they are no longer available (or hard to find on ebay).

Again, my knowledge of this is somewhat limited, and this is just based on what I've found with online searches.
 
Pdtofly said:
Tom,

You have one part that you need. The shell that you need is Garmin Part no. 330-00220-50 and 330-00185-78. There is also a clamp that mounts on the first part that will hold your wire bundle in place. A must to prevent a wire from breaking by vibration. The part you showed is Garmin Part no. 125-00045-00.

Do a search or call you local Garmin dealer, or SteinAir and see if they might have one laying around. You also will need the two screws to hold in place. The whole kit would cost you an arm and leg, and maybe your first born.

If you send me an email at [email protected], I will send you a picture of all the part numbers you would need.

Good luck.

Brian
Click to expand...

Brian-

Thanks for the info and part numbers - searching those led me to the install manual which shows the dsub connector and associated parts.

Unfortunately, the current install is just the dsub connector. No backshell, no nutplate. Just wires.

I spoke with Steinair last week, they don't have any of the stuff around.

I'm gonna try the nutplate I linked above as a temporary fix, long term solution is a complete gutting and redo of the panel.

Appreciate all the responses.
 
Just thinking out loud...is there any reason you couldn't use that nutplate thingie that you found on the internet, along with just a regular backshell sans the knurled knobs/screws, to hold it in place?

I'd try just using any backshell and its little internal clamp for strain relief, and see if it would work with the nutplate(s). Obviously, the idea is to secure it from inside the radio tray with flush screws to avoid interference with the body of the 430W itself.
 
Pdtofly said:
Tom,

You have one part that you need. The shell that you need is Garmin Part no. 330-00220-50 and 330-00185-78. There is also a clamp that mounts on the first part that will hold your wire bundle in place. A must to prevent a wire from breaking by vibration. The part you showed is Garmin Part no. 125-00045-00.

Do a search or call you local Garmin dealer, or SteinAir and see if they might have one laying around. You also will need the two screws to hold in place. The whole kit would cost you an arm and leg, and maybe your first born.

If you send me an email at [email protected], I will send you a picture of all the part numbers you would need.

Good luck.

Brian
Click to expand...


Stein doesn't stock this part. I recently went through the same ordeal. I was quoted anywhere from $40-$80 for the Garmin part. I order one off Newark Electronics web page. it worked just fine. I think I paid like $12 for the connector.
 
TShort said:
Bob-

Do you have a link? I looked at the Newark web site but can't find the part.

Thanks
Thomas
Click to expand...

No, but I have a copy of my invoice on my phone. The db-78 high density connector is 42k6697 and costs $7.64. Once you locate this part, finding the other accessories should be fairly simple.

You can lookup the part at Newark.com

I used this part on my GTN-650. Worked perfectly.
 
I ran into this problem (missing custom nutplate for backshell per the image from TShort) when I was building my bird.

After doing the things already noted (Stein et al) I wound up using some scotchweld epoxy to glue a pair of 4-40 nylocs to the ears of the relevant backshell.

One reason for choosing this solution was that I had what I needed in house.

It has worked fine so far.

BTW... Its nice to see some commercial items in the links above that could work for others in the same predicament.
 
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I'm not really sure what you are trying to do, but B&C sells a "D-Sub Connector, Standoff, Female, Hex (Pair)" for 75 cents. These screw on to the back shell mount screws, effectively turning a male D-sub mount to a female mount.
Maybe that would work for you. You can probably get them from any electronics outlet like allied, etc.
 
sf3543 said:
I'm not really sure what you are trying to do, but B&C sells a "D-Sub Connector, Standoff, Female, Hex (Pair)" for 75 cents. These screw on to the back shell mount screws, effectively turning a male D-sub mount to a female mount.
Maybe that would work for you. You can probably get them from any electronics outlet like allied, etc.
Click to expand...

My experience with these was less than ideal...I think you tend to end up with the ends of the *two* screws hitting each other and preventing full engagement sometimes. In any case, I didn't like them, but was stuck in one case where I had to do that to connect two Dsub shell connectors. Never felt it was secure, so tie-wrapped the two together for added security (and they've never come apart).

To be honest, I've never cared for either the teeny-tiny slotted screws that come with some backshells, OR the knurled knobs that come with others. They seem flimsy and difficult to properly tighten down, and have a tendency to loosen over time. I'd much prefer one of the "old-fashioned" style locking devices like the wire loop that some connectors have on both sides, the one that flips up and engages with a positive latching mechanism. Or one of the sliding latches. Or anything else, frankly.
 
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RV7aflyr...interesting that you have had problems with those female connectors. Not to disagree with you but, I have used them many times and have never had issues. I have sourced them from several vendors and they always worked, at least for me.
 
sf3543 said:
RV7aflyr...interesting that you have had problems with those female connectors. Not to disagree with you but, I have used them many times and have never had issues. I have sourced them from several vendors and they always worked, at least for me.
Click to expand...

I've never had one come out, but I have occasionally found one of the screws slightly loosened, albeit not for a couple of years now. Still, they just don't feel "aviation-y" to me. I think Garmin has the right solution here, with a positive locking platenut "block" which is screwed in from inside of the radio rack. Never had a problem with those.

As much as I love my Dynon stuff, I just find the plastic backshells and knurled knobs and screws somewhat less than ideal. I guess they work fine, though, for most applications.

Plus they're a booger to access (screws with slots) or to turn with my big ol' fingers (knobs). :)
 
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