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Shop Requirements

M

Mike Armstrong

Well Known Member
I?m about to remodel my home and that includes adding on an attached garage (shop :D ). Living in So. Cal. the available property space to build on is limited (read: the large spacious shop I really want aint gonna happen here) so the dimensions of the garage will be 20x22ft. I?m still in the planning stages so what I need, knowing this will be a shop specifically for building a kitplane such as an RV (-12?), is what kinds of things I should be telling the contractor to include in the construction. I would like this shop both wood and metal kitplane construction friendly for the option of selecting different kit projects in the future. I?m not needing a list of shop tools (yet) as much as what needs to be included in the construction of the shop itself. I would really appreciate advice from those that have homebuilt as to what kinds of things are a ?must have? or ?nice to have? for the homebuilders shop to have built in such as,

1) Sound deadening materials in the walls and/or roof? (riveting noise ect.)
2) Electrical requirements? (access, machine/tool, arc welding ect.)
3) Ventilation? (paint, chemicals, sealants ect.)
4) Lighting? (overall)
5) ?

What would you include in the construction of your shop if you were to do it all over again? What is the one thing or things that you wish you had already built in? Thanks


Mike
 
Dream list---------$$no object.

Electric outlets every 6' all walls, also two ceiling pull down reels.

Air compressor outlets every 12', also two ceiling pull down reels.

Cordless phone, with hands free headset.

TV-big flat screen, Stereo, computer displaying through TV------able to be seen from project area as you look at a post and compare your work.

Lighting-------Lots!!! Zone switched.

HVAC., and forced ventilation for smelly jobs.

Built in vacuum, outlets 2 or 3 each wall.

Insulated "drum" roll up door.

Refrigerator.

Bathroom------at least a place to wash up before going in house.

Central floor drain.

Epoxy coated floor.

I am sure I missed a few, but here is a place to start.

Mike
 
Always build a garage and a half; i.e., build a 1 1/2 car, 2 1/2 car, etc. garage.
That extra 1/2 space is great for storing stuff like mowers and such when you're not building planes in there. A single, wide garage door is obvious. If it's a metal door, then insulate it well (noise!). You can't have too much lighting! A dedicated 240v, 20 amp outlet for a good (read 60 gal or so, oil lubricated) air compressor. Another dedicated 240v, 20 amp outlet for a welder would be nice, but you could alternate it with the compressor outlet if you had to. A compressed air system consisting of a water separator, pressure regulator, lubricator, connected by 1/2" copper piping. Make sure to sweat all joints in the copper piping system-don't use compression fittings. Have plenty of taps for air before and after the lubricator, as some tools require lubrication and some don't. Have dedicated air hoses for both the lubed side and the un-lubed side to avoid contaminating parts with oil when you're just trying to blow them dry after prepping them for primer and such.
 
list

Here is a list of items I have in my shop. If you are willing or able to do any of the work yourself then costs can be kept down. Of course when it comes to electrical and such your ability to work on anything will depend on the code laws in your area.

  • In my shop I set up a separate 5x10 "air compressor" room that has a full walk through door that can be closed to minimize the noise. This room currently houses a 60 gallon 7 HP compressor with plans to put a dust collection system in the room as well.
  • I do not have air plumbed currently but have plans for a main air line to be plumbed through the wall of the compressor room. The lines will then split out to various locations in the shop. I have heard that the typical pvc pipe sometimes used for air compressor plumbing can have explosive failures so I plan to plumb using regular air hose overhead with several retractable hose reals in various strategic locations throughout the shop.
  • I have a full bathroom with corner shower, sink, toilet, hot water tank. This was a must have as the closest bathroom in the house requires walking through the entire length of the house to reach. Not good when you are covered with dirt, etc. and need cleaning up.
  • Electrical outlets are set on both sides of any window and door and are spaced about 8 feet apart throughout the shop. I also set separate electrical zones up for the outlets so that there are blocks of outlets (say on the left side of a window) that are on a different circuit than the next outlet (say the one on the right side of the window). By doing this I can be sure that I will not overload one circuit if I have multiple items running all at the same time in the location I am working.
  • In most climates a good source of heat for winter is necessary. My shop does get very cold in the winter. By having a heat source you can spend the long winter months working in a warm environment. I currently have an old fashioned floor furnace burning propane that is adequate. However, it does have an open flame so that is something I must always be conscious of concerning the use of flammable materials in the shop when it is in operation.
  • The opposite of the heat in the winter is a means to cool the are in the summer. My shop is insulated which I consider a must but it does take some type of air circulation to allow for a cool shop on a hot day.
  • As has been mentioned before make sure you have lots of light. This is something you can never have too much of. Even so you may still find yourself working in a corner of your shop that you wish you had more light in. Plan for plenty of overhead light but also plan for some means for portable lighting.

Just a few things I did. Hope that helps.
 
Small(ish) shop

OK... I'll chime in. I have a two car garage, slightly smaller than you're guess as to your eventual shop size.

I'll second the suggestion for lots of electrical outlets. If I were building new, I'd also install 220V (compressor and/or welder... if you weld).

I'm not sure you need that much in terms of compressed air outlets. If you think about it, most hoses are 50' which will let you go corner to corner in your space and back again. May be some slight convenience factor to have more than one, or hose reel from the ceiling.

With a smaller space, you'll also want to economize on how much room you take up with "non-airplane stuff." Even if I wanted to put a refrigerator or a bathroom in my shop, I'd have to move the airplane out to do it :eek: . Having a wash tub in an attaching laundry or mud room is handy for cleanup though.

Make sure you have a network outlet (or go wireless) and leave room for a computer so you can check VAF while working ;) .

Give lots of thought to shelving and cabinets, and/or mezzanine space if you have the height. There is a lot of "stuff" that needs storing in between building on it, as well as supplies, tools, etc. Make allowances if you want to hang parts from the walls (as I've done with my wings).

I also have some cushioned mats on my floor. A couple days straight standing all day on concrete has a surprising toll.

Think about where you'll put your plans and building manuals. If you can keep them off working surfaces you'll have more room for work, but if you have an extra desk it takes up limited floor space. Another candidate for on the wall.

Start working on SWMBO now to keep garbage bins, recycle bins, empty bottle storage, etc. someplace other than the shop :eek:
 
In Illinois I would highly recomend radiant floor heat, not sure how critical it is in Ca. If you are doing woodworking plan for dust collection ducts routed in the slab. We did this in my brother inlaws shop. Think of a 7" "dado" in the floor with a 1" rabit at the top. Then ron power and duct work to tools in the dado. Drop a 1 x 8 into the rabit so you can walk or roll equipment over the opening. Obviously you need to know where you want to place the table saw / jointer / planner etc.

John
 
Thank you fellas, great information, I appreciate it. As far as the size of the garage (shop), 20x22 is unfortunately the maximum I can legally sqeeze onto my property. Luckily, I also have a large shed (not big enough for a shop) in my back yard that I use for storage and lawn stuff so I should be able to use the garage only for shop purposes.
 
Mike Armstrong said:
Luckily, I also have a large shed (not big enough for a shop) in my back yard that I use for storage and lawn stuff so I should be able to use the garage only for shop purposes.
Click to expand...

If possible, put the air compressor in the shed. You will appreciate the quiet.

As to a previous post, 50' air hose--------they get caught in/on everything.
I use as short a hose as will do the job--------more air flow, less mess, and less frustration. Same idea for electric cords.

Stay away from the coil type self retracting hoses---the ones that look like a giant spring. The airflow is lousy.

Whoever mentioned the rubber mats is right on.

By the way, get a good air compressor. Upright tanks eat less floor space. 220v is more efficient than 110. 60 gal would be my minimum recomendation.
Search this site for more good info on them.

Mike
 
Ditto on Electrical

Let me add my $0.02. Make sure you get lots of outlets in the garage that are on a dedicated circuit. I have owned several houses in California where the garage outlets were wired through a GFI outlet in the far corner of the house. The outlet may be six feet from the electical panel, but there could be 100 feet of wiring to get there. (In one house, I couldn't use my table saw until I added a circuit.) The outlets can typically all be on one circuit. (Check for code compliance!) If you are working alone, you will probably use only one tool at a time. I recommend putting the outlets 4 or 5 feet off the floor. You could put a bench against that wall and still use the outlets. Someone mentioned a 220v circuit for an air compressor. I added a 30 amp line to drive my 7 HP 60 gal compressor, but that's a little overkill. For lighting, I recommend adding outlets in the ceiling that are wired through a switch(es). You can hang 4 foot shop lights wherever you want and plug them into the switched outlets. That also makes it easy to add or move lights if necessary. Air lines are a nice idea but probably not necessary for the size of your shop. If you add an oiler, make sure you keep track of which hoses you use with oil and which are dry. I just oil the tools before use them so I don't worry about the tool, and I don't worry about spraying oil on the part I just cleaned. A utility sink is wonderful. Even if there is a sink in the laundry next to the garage, having a dedicated sink in the garage can "promote domestic tranquility." The plastic utility sinks available at the Temple of Orange and other home centers are good, but there are some really nice stainless utility sinks available. Consider getting a sink that has a drain area on the side. Also, consider putting the sink where you have about 6 feet of clear wall space to one side. You could build a drain tray that drains into the sink. But, if the sink is bound by windows or doors on both sides, you'll have no place to put it. In my last house, I added a sink in the garage. I put in a kitchen type fixture so I got the spray nozzle on a retractable hose. I also added a utility fixture at knee cap level so I could slide a 5 gal bucket under it. The utility fixture was threaded to accept a garden hose. Gosh, I miss that sink! :eek:
 
flynwx said:
"promote domestic tranquility."
Click to expand...
:D

Thanks Scott, good point(s).
It was the "domestic tranquility" issue that actually started the whole 'we gotta remodel' thing. I wasn't too thrilled until I realized I was gonna getta 'shop' outta the deal. Now its me thats saying "we gotta remodel honey and soon!" :D
 
Do put a compressor with a big tank in a separate insulated area. Plumb a tank drain though the wall. Put a 1/4 ball valve on the botom of the tank.

You want dry air. To do that you plumb it in 3/4 iron pipe around the upper perimeter of your shop walls. Incorporate as many feet of pipe as you can manage; the idea is to cool the air so it drops it's water. Space drops with traps and Milton couplers at a few locations. The last drop gets a good filter and pressure regulator. Use it for the expensive air tools and all your painting.
 
Here's a few ideas for your consideration:
Since your shop will be an attached garage, it will eventually become a garage again, right?
You should have access to the house for the bathroom, so don't waste the space in the shop.
Insulate the walls and door.
Install a window and maybe a back door. You can use them for ventilation or to mount an air conditioner.
I used a 30 gal 110 V compressor to build two RVs with no problem. I got one from HD that stands upright in the corner. You could also build a small pad behind the garage with a small roof for the compressor.
I never needed a 220 V circuit for anything. Nothing to weld and I didn't need a bigger compressor.
I just used a hose from the compressor, but get one of those light flexible hoses from Cleaveland tools for the last 10'.
Several electrical outlets above the height of your work bench, around the walls.
Lots of lights.
Build two work benches out of a 4x8 piece of 3/4" plywood. Make them 2'x4' each. Next time, I will put casters on them. You can clamp them together to make one large table for some things, like the wings, tail, etc. You can move these around.
A small icebox is nice. You can keep proseal, paint, sodas, etc in there, but then, you do have access to the house.
Put good seals on the door into the house to keep dust and noise out. Also a good rug to wipe your shoes on.
Some kind of desk for paperwork and plans reading and a stool or chair.
Shelves! I put them all along one wall about 6' up. I also used some of those plastic shelves you can get at HD.
Seal the concrete so you can use a dust mop to sweep up the floor. Much faster than a broom.
When I finished my RV, I just painted the garage walls and everything looks as good as new. Actually, better!
 
DanH said:
Do put a compressor with a big tank in a separate insulated area. Plumb a tank drain though the wall. Put a 1/4 ball valve on the botom of the tank.

You want dry air. To do that you plumb it in 3/4 iron pipe around the upper perimeter of your shop walls. Incorporate as many feet of pipe as you can manage; the idea is to cool the air so it drops it's water. Space drops with traps and Milton couplers at a few locations. The last drop gets a good filter and pressure regulator. Use it for the expensive air tools and all your painting.
Click to expand...

Great tip, thanks Dan.
 
This is the kind of valuable information that only comes from those that have 'been there, done that'. This is very useful info that will save me (and many others reading this thread) alot of time and frustration. I'm sure there will come a time in my shop when I'll say to myself, man I'm glad I have folks like you here helping me out! Thanks again ;)
 
San Diego: Insulation.

Ventilation--a window, or some way to get air flow. Also good for occasional priming of small parts. Set a box fan in the window blowing out, hold the part next to the window and spray away. Of course in San Diego, you could just step outside, but in other parts of the country, the window is good. Also, you could leave the window open at night along with leaving the door open a couple inches to let the place cool down better.

As others have said, lots of outlets & lots of lighting. My 20 X 32ft. garage has 7 outlets & I wish I had several more. It's hard to anticipate where you will eventually want them, so get plenty. I have 640 watts of flourescent lighting & I wish I had another 400 watts. Use several switches, so if you are just going out to the garage to get a screwdrive for a little household project you don't turn them all on. Having some ceiling outlets on a wall switch so you can move lights around is a good idea. And wire for 220, of course.

You might put your compressor outside in a shed & pipe the air thru the wall to save space & cut down on noise. I prefer piping as opposed to having the water trap next to the compressor then a lot of hose. The water trap doesn't work well if you have it next to the compressor--the air needs to cool to condense in it. I plumbed several outlets & only use 2, so don't go crazy with them.

The rubber floor mats are good. Besides being easier on your feet, if global warming goes kaput & you actually see cold temps in San Diego, mats are not quite so cold to stand on. Not quite. Old carpet might be even better than mats.

Since you don't have much space if you could build taller, that would help. Then you could store finished wings and emp. parts there.

Richard Scott
RV-9A Wings
 
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Heat and Air

The shop we are working out of has natural gas forced air heater for winter and a wall mounted air conditioner for summer. We would not be this far along with two planes had it not been possible to work in comfort.

All the other posts are great. Nice list guys.

And don't forget the "Babes of Van's Airforce Calendar" on the wall.

Pat Garboden
Ozark, MO
 
here's the biggies as I see them....the rest (workbenches, tools etc) will take care of themselves as you need them or change your mind).

1) Shelves....long shelves for storing long parts. Bookcases don't work well for this. Use the modular shelf systems that allow you to move shelf heights/lengths as you progress to different points during the build and have different requirements

2) Heat/AC - do whatever you can to keep the shop comfortable. I would loose large chunks of the year if I didn't have a heater. I don't have AC...I may do something about that this year.

3) Outlets...all over the place. When you think you have enough you don't...add more. You will reconfigure your shop several times, I'm sure, and that workbench that uses up 4 or 6 outlets will become a PITA when you move it across the garage to a wall that only has 2 outlets. You can't have too many of these.

4) Unless you have a need for it, forget about 220 lines. Just run one when you need it. It's very unlikely that a random 220V line will be sized properly for some piece of equipment you install in the future. Make sure you have plenty of room to expand in your box, though.

5) Lighting lighting lighting lighting lighting. Just line the whole ceiling with lights. These are like outlets....no matter how many you have you NEVER have enough. Light it up like an operating room if you can. I keep adding lights and it's never enough. I'll be addressing that this year.

Insulation if you can. Definately paint everything white (or bright) as well. Floor? Epoxy's nice but the new snap together floors are nice too.

I don't know how flexible you are, but if you can have them build the garage very high and build a little loft up there. VERY convenient to store all sorts of stuff (like airplane parts). I can't tell you how much I miss the loft in my old house.
 
I'll comment on the lighting. The key is to install sets of light tubes in the corners of the walls/ceilings facing down and in at 45* around the perimeter, ala a paint booth. Makes a world of difference.
 
OK, my turn:

Boy, Mike, you sure asked a loaded question! :D
Reading through the posts so far (and there will be LOTS more), the common denominators are:

#1 - Lots of electrical outlets.
#2 - Lots of lighting.
#3 - An air source.
#4 - FLEXIBILITY on everything!

Now a couple of specifics:

You'll want some open wall space for bins:

Vans loves their little paper bags, and when you need a small part, you can waste a lot of time trying to find it.

You'll want some entertainment. I have a TV/Dish receiver, a scanner to listen to NorCal Approach and Stockton Tower, and an AM/FM radio.

I also have a computer networked with the rest of the house. Someone else mentioned this, and you'd be surprised how often I use it to look up parts, search VAF, place orders, etc. I also us KitLogPro, and update it daily. Speaking of which, get a simple digital camera that ALWAYS stays in the shop. You'll want to document everything you do with the camera and your builder's log.
 
Mike,
You asked about favorite things.

I was lucky enough to build a new dream shop a few years back. My hands-down favorite feature is the vent fan system.

I installed a pair of 24" explosion-proof fans (Dayton 4C363B) down low in the two front corners the shop. On the inside I built box frames of 1/2 steel angle (you can see one in the background below) with openings sized to fit 20 x 25 filters. The filters catch 98% of all paint overspray. The proof is a glance at the outside blow-open exit louvers; they're still white. Use whatever type of filter fits the job, or no filters at all if you just want to suck sawdust.

The shop has a large attic space (as many here have advised). The big louvered panel you see above the garage door serves two functions. It is removable, so it becomes a 5 ft high doorway that allows easy attic access for those bulky but light items. It is also has a fine screen on the inside, because it serves as the air intake for the vent fan system.

Inside the shop, in the far end ceiling, is a standard set of folding attic access steps. When I want to run the fans I just pull down the attic step panel (no need to unfold the steps) and flip the wall switches. Air enters from the attic and sweeps the full length of the shop...big time.

Industrial explosion-proof fans ain't cheap (about $350), but they are safe and far, far more powerful than Wal-Mart box fans. The filter boxes catch overspray before it gets on your neighbor's car. The screened intake eliminates most of the bugs. I don't bother with a mask to spray small parts. I just stand in front of a filter box, spray downwind, and don't even smell the paint. I can easily divide the shop with a single temporary filter wall and have full-tilt spray booth. Really dusty jobs (router work, fiberglass sanding) are no longer a pain. I love my fans.

 
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If your code will allow it, you might consider using sc 40 3/4 pvc.At each drop for your couplers use a 3/4 female glue to 3/4NPT female coupling. Out of this use whatever length of 3/4 black iron pipe with 90 or45 deg. fitting to connect your qwik coupler. there is a 100,000 sq ft warehouse in our town that used this for plumbing air to all four corners and 30 drops at various points. If it gets hit by forklift or something it doesnt shrapnel into 10,000 fps deris it just breaks and they cut out the broken section and use 2 couplersand anew section to repair They used 3/4 emt clamps to secure it to the walls I have it in my shop and it is easy to add on to if you see a place another drop would be handy. I broke one and all it did was crack. No shrapnel. this might save you some coin
 
Nice shop Dan! That setting in the woods of Alabama makes me envious. I like your ventolation and attic/loft access ideas. Thanks

I'll have to go back over all the replies (gladly) and I could be wrong, but did anyone mention an engine hoist solution. I've read a built in beam about 1/4 way from the long end of the shop with a heavy 'I' bolt screwed/bolted in or a rail running a few feet perpendicular to the beam to 'slide' the engine into place might be a good thing to have built in. Do most of you just use an auto engine hoist?
 
<<did anyone mention an engine hoist solution.>>

I use an ordinary auto engine hoist most of the time, but overhead lift points sure are handy. Design the shop structure using engineered wood I-beams for your ceiling joists rather than premade 2x4 roof trusses. They have chipboard webs, glue-lam flanges, and come in 9" and 12" depths. You can blow them full of insulation (8" or more) and still deck over the top for an attic floor.

Run a steel strap over the top and down both sides through the ceiling, and bolt through the ends for an anchor that will carry a huge load. The actual capacity can be found in the beam literature.

Strong ceiling anchors have all kinds of uses:

 
DanH said:
<<did anyone mention an engine hoist solution.>>

I use an ordinary auto engine hoist most of the time, but overhead lift points sure are handy. Design the shop structure using engineered wood I-beams for your ceiling joists rather than premade 2x4 roof trusses. They have chipboard webs, glue-lam flanges, and come in 9" and 12" depths. You can blow them full of insulation (8" or more) and still deck over the top for an attic floor.

Run a steel strap over the top and down both sides through the ceiling, and bolt through the ends for an anchor that will carry a huge load. The actual capacity can be found in the beam literature.

Strong ceiling anchors have all kinds of uses:

Click to expand...


Dan, I just realized what I was looking at (duh!), thats a great idea! Talk about utilizing every bit of space.
 
You better show us the final result! I'm excited to see it.

Here's my little tidbit if it's not too late:

Motion sensor lighting: I have not yet finished the installation but I am planning for four 8 foot fluorescents (sp?) oriented in a square around the main working area of my two car garage. They are on their own dedicated circuit. But DO NOT put fluorescents on a motion sensor. In addition, for the cheap incandescent circuit that my builder installed originally, I put the motion sensor on it. So if you gotta run out to the garage for a tool for an inside project, the originals come on automatically and shut off automatically a minute or so after returning to the house. Two different lighting circuits. Two different purposes.

One more thing on lighting: I'm going to line the underside of all the cabinets with more miniature fluorescents. Found a bunch of them for like a dollar a piece at my local Habitat for Humanity Restore.

Ok one more thing. Did I say I love my local Habitat for Humanity Restore? Man can you find some incredible deals there!!!!! I try to visit it once per week.
 
I am planing to build a -10 in a shop at my house. I intend to build it there, and do just the final assembling at airport.

I know I don't need to have enough space to put both wing at the same time. But I want to be able to put one wing, work on it, take it out, and put the another one. So I think I need the size from the nose to the tail, by wing+fuselage width. Am I missing something?

What size do you recommend?
 
1. Air conditioning.

2. Air conditioning.

3. Air conditioning.

Did I mention it's about 110 in the hangar today at Conroe?

Might think about air conditioning in addition to 1,2&3 above.
 
Should this thread be sticky?

I'm beginning to convert my garage into a factory now. This thread was VERY useful. I will follow many of the ideas presented.

Thanks to all contributors! :)
Michael
 
keepup said:
Here's my tree hugger contribution: http://www.solatube.com/homeowner/
Click to expand...

Just make sure your Solartubes have the later aluminum housings. My originals were plastic. Guaranteed for 10 years. At 10 years and 2 months they crumbled, literally. I tried to get some satisfaction, but all they would do is tell me to take them back to Home Depot. Home Depot now carries a different brand and wouldn't talk to me. I bought 2 new complete systems cheaper than I could buy just the housings. The new housings are .062" 6061.
 
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No PVC airlines.

As a licensed plumber, and plumbing contractor, I can tell you. Do not use PVC for compressed air. Copper or black iron pipe is the proper material for the job. Many people put in PVC in garages and shops for air. People started putting in PVC about 12 - 15 years ago, and many, many of those systems are failing. Oil from the air compressor begins to degrade the PVC over time, and it WILL fail. If you are lucky, it will develop a leak, if your are not, it will explode sending shards of plastic through the air. In addition to that, as air is compressed, it heats up, which in turn heats the pipe, further reducing its pressure rating. Even SCH80 PVC is not appropriate for compressed air. Spend a little money and put in copper or black iron. I would recommend copper as you can do it yourself if you so desire, with just a tubing cutter, torch, solder and paste, and a little sanding cloth. Where as black iron requires a threader and a lot more time. People often comment that they cannot sweat copper, but I must say, if you are going to learn the skills necessary to built a flying contraption, you certainly can learn to sweat copper.
My recommendation would be to leave all the air lines dry, and either build a oiler that you could plug in line with air tools, and leave it out when you don't want it, or simply put a drop of oil in the tools before you use them, and be vigilante about draining the water from your compressor tank.

Advice worth exactly what you paid for it. ;)
 
NO PVC air lines

I have to second that no pvc air lines. Ask me a osh and I'll show you the scar's. Exploding PVC is not your friend......
 
Security System

I installed a security system(s) in my shop which is separate from the house.

I would rather not reveal the type of security system(s) I am using, but you can search the internet and find a wide range of motion detector/alarms/flashing lights...some are even battery powered. Some will even set off an alarm in your house. Some even sound like barking dogs which seems like a good idea because it might keep someone from breaking in, in the first place. Some will call your cell phone or the police.

With as much time and money as we are putting into our projects, plus all the tools we have, an investment in some type of security system seems like a no-brainer to me.
 
PVC Air Lines

I confess to installing Sch 40 PVC air lines in my first workshop...my garage. When I built my second workshop out back I did a lot of reading about PVC air lines and came to the conclusion that it's not a good idea. So I installed carbon steel, Sch 40, 1/2" air lines. (Carbon steel pipe is also commonly called "black iron.") So far (year and a half) it's worked great. And I don't have to worry about plastic shrapnel when the grandson is out there with me.

As a Registered Professional Engineer and as a concerned grandfather, I just could not conscientiously install PVC air lines in my shop. The big kicker for my decision was that I could not find one single piping code here in the U.S. that allowed it. There was one that allowed PVC if it were buried 18 inches below the surface of the ground! :eek: Not too practical for a workshop.
 
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About to sort my shop

Thank you for all your hints and tips, perhaps this thread could be added the already useful newbie link.
Thanks
 
Mike,
I'm building a 9A in my garage. I live near you in Ramona, so feel free to come up and check it out.

I have a 3 car garage and I'm building mostly in the third bay of the garage. The garage is drywalled and years ago I built lots of cabinets and storage all around the perimeter. The garage had a couple of electrical outlets on either side and 2 small bulbs in the ceiling. I put in a bunch of extra outlets on that single 20 amp circuit and use that for all of my power tools and compressor. I've never blown the breaker, and only am using one tool at a time, but it is nice to be able to have the grinder, bandsaw, drill presses, etc. always plugged in and ready to go. Before starting on the RV, I put in some copper pipe for compressed air, and an overhead hose reel. The ceiling now has 4 8' flourescent fixtures and lighting is very adequate.

SoCal weather is pretty mild. Ventilation is simple. Just open the garage doors. I think the coldest it has been in the garage this winter has been 55F.
 
I used copper air lines....

throughout my shop. It is easy to build, mount and solder the fittings, and believe it or not, 1/2" copper is a lot cheaper than iron pipe! I also experienced a PVC pipe burst. I'll never use that again for air.
 
Don't scare off the newbies

snip ....., perhaps this thread could be added the already useful newbie link.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Many of us have exquisite shops with heated floors and more light than a tanning bed but lets not forget our roots.
It is the incredibly stubborn goal oriented mindset that will make the project happen, not the workplace (althought it certainly helps). Remember Bingelis started his first Emeraude in a hall closet in a rental apartment in Japan. :eek:

Good luck with your shop projects..all. It is fun to set one up, especially for a project of this nature.

My 2 cents can be summarized in one word... FLEXIBILITY. Shop reconfiguration for different stages of construction is handy.

Put EVERYTHING on wheels.
Reels are your friend, both air and electric.
Music is a good thing
I've yet to see a fabrication table that was too big.
A rolling table to hold all your riveting and cleco hardware is handy
 
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