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advice sought removing vacuum pump

daddyman

Well Known Member
All,
I'm interesting in removing my fully functional vacuum pump.

Why in the world would anybody do that?
Answer; I'm not really using it. It only sucks my directional heading indicator. I do not rely on it any longer.

I'll save weight. perhaps 9-10 pounds. Not insignificant.

I can install an Angle of attack indicator in the same instrument panel hole.

Other than borrowing the bent removal speciality wrench, I'll suspect I'll need the following;
1. the correct gasket for replacement
2. a cover for the hole where the pump was (part number for IO-320 E2A EXP ?)
3. a cover for the firewall where the tube passed through to the instrument bay

Have others done this?

Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance,
Daddyman
 
I made a cover plate from 1/4" aluminum stock. Just size it to match the surface area and drill the holes with the proper pattern. I made a gasket from gasket stock, available at your auto parts store.

I am sure they sell cover plates and you'll likely find it in the Lyc parts catalog. You can use the standard vacuum pump gasket.

Larry
 
You don't need the bent wrench (if you don't have one available), just get the 3 easy ones loose and tap the edge of the 4th one with a screwdriver and small hammer. Making a plate and gasket is a pretty easy task. You can remove the studs (with a few nuts) and use short bolts with drilled heads & safety wire.
 
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We've done the same thing recently when we bought ours. Left out the vacuum pump, the hoses, filter, DG, AH, T&B, and while we were at it, the VOR as well, and with it the boat anchor NAV/COM unit and mode C transponder.

Replaced it with Mode S TPX, 8.33 kHz COM (both mandatory here), an $800 EFIS unit and a few dozen pounds of lightness.

Removing the pump was indeed not a hard job to do at all.

From old to new...

Good luck with yours!
 
Lycoming's cover plate is #60430

http://www.aircraft-specialties.com/cover-vacuum-pump-60430/

You will also need some spacers on the studs to make up for the loss of the thickness of the "adapter assembly" that is no longer needed.

Lycoming calls out gasket number #8313 if the cover plate is used.

http://www.aircraft-specialties.com/gasket-vacuum-pump-sl8313/

Cheaper than buying the gasket material from the auto parts store. :)

I would keep the adapter assembly in case you decide to put on a backup alternator down the road. You can buy a plate or make one. I would use 1/4? aluminum as was mentioned, and there?s is a decent chance the old gasket will still work. Otherwise gaskets are readily available.
 
Thanks to all for good direction

Lycoming's cover plate is #60430

http://www.aircraft-specialties.com/cover-vacuum-pump-60430/

You will also need some spacers on the studs to make up for the loss of the thickness of the "adapter assembly" that is no longer needed.

Lycoming calls out gasket number #8313 if the cover plate is used.

http://www.aircraft-specialties.com/gasket-vacuum-pump-sl8313/

Cheaper than buying the gasket material from the auto parts store. :)

Gill,
Yes, I thought I could make one, and indeed looked up the same parts numbers you sent along.

Thanks to all for your input.

Daddyman
 
Vac Pump Removal

The official gasket makes a great template to fab your own cover plate. If the other methods fail a small hammer and chisel will turn and loosen the difficult nut.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
 
Hasta La Vista....

All,
I'm interesting in removing my fully functional vacuum pump.
Have others done this?
Am I missing something?
Thanks in advance,
Daddyman

David,
Two words: Good Riddance!
Short answer is I never installed one in any of my 3 RV's. Why? Same reasons as you deduced and in addition the 3HP it robs your engine during operations.
Lastly it's archaic in comparison to what could utilize the hole.
Options:
1. B&C gear driven Alternator, saves a fan belt/,extra weight. Or....
2. B&C Inverted oil pickup line attachment.
http://www.bandc.aero/alternator8ampshomebuilt.aspx

3. Additionally you can then install a lightweight aerobatic flywheel.
http://www.skydynamics.com/products/engine/featherweight-flywheel

Or as mentioned above, just install a cover plate and enjoy less weight, assorted lines, filters, heavy instruments and hassles as well as 3 free HP.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/cata...MI6ZPsq7aa3gIVAgRpCh2G1w2wEAQYASABEgKaavD_BwE
Plate
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/lyc-83...MI6ZPsq7aa3gIVAgRpCh2G1w2wEAQYAyABEgKgafD_BwE
Gasket

You won't miss it...:)
V/R
Smokey

PS: BTW, 9-10 lbs saved is very significant...
 
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vacum removal

I am doing this right now. Do I need to remove the actual drive parts or just take the pump off?
 
I am doing this right now. Do I need to remove the actual drive parts or just take the pump off?

based upon preference. The whole gear assembly is gone on the 6. On the 10, I left the gear assembly, as I may some day put a backup alternator there. If you pull the gear assembly, you will need to pull the long studs and replace with shorter ones or use bolts instead.

Larry
 
Or Just Pull the Right Magneto

I?ve replaced quite a few vacuum pumps and after struggling with crowfoot wrenches, ratcheting box wrenches, chisels, shovels, chainsaws, etc., a co-worker told me to cut my losses and just remove the right magneto.
After that, changing the vacuum pump is dead easy, and reinstalling the magneto only takes 15 minutes or so. Cheaper than buying the special wrench, too.
I replaced our right magneto with a Lightspeed Plasma III ignition system and that fixed that. As soon as The Crew Chief (wife!) approves it, we?ll redo the instrument panel and sell that vacuum dinosaur thingy.
 
I have removed a few vacuum pumps & systems. I prefer to remove the drive assembly and set it aside for future use. Why leave it in the system with it's weight and wear and tear. I also extract the studs and replace them with short versions. If you leave the original studs you will need to fabricate some very long bushings. At that point you will have 4 more gotcha pylons in the way of your hands when you work on the back of the engine. I prefer short studs and clean access.
 
I have removed a few vacuum pumps & systems. I prefer to remove the drive assembly and set it aside for future use. Why leave it in the system with it's weight and wear and tear. I also extract the studs and replace them with short versions. If you leave the original studs you will need to fabricate some very long bushings. At that point you will have 4 more gotcha pylons in the way of your hands when you work on the back of the engine. I prefer short studs and clean access.

There?s a joke there somewhere😊. Currently going thru the decision process on this (replacing vacuum with G5?s). Decided to to leave the drive in place and use a cover plate. Two reasons: it?s just easier, and, I like the idea of the direct drive B&C alternator next time my Denso goes down. Good to have options.
 
I have removed a few vacuum pumps & systems. I prefer to remove the drive assembly and set it aside for future use. Why leave it in the system with it's weight and wear and tear. I also extract the studs and replace them with short versions. If you leave the original studs you will need to fabricate some very long bushings. At that point you will have 4 more gotcha pylons in the way of your hands when you work on the back of the engine. I prefer short studs and clean access.

What size studs did you put in there? I’ve just removed my vacuum system and I have a raven vac pad adapter for my inverted oil system that has to go there. Need to replace those long studs, but I’m not sure which of the many they offer I need to get. The adapter is about the same size as a block plate: 1/4”.
 
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