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RV-8 Upper Intersection Fairing Attachment

Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
Mentor
You know how you occasionally slap your forehead and go ?Dohh!!? when looking at your airplane? Well, here?s a report on one of those moments with me and the Valkyrie. One of the last things I did before flying it was to complete the intersection fairings. There was a lot of custom work involved, of course, and when I got them finished to the desired shape, I struggled with attachment hardware. I finally settled on a single screw in the forward end, anchored to the fuselage, and another underneath, inboard of the gear, on the belly. Since these areas of the fuselage were all closed up, I couldn?t install nutplates. Consequently, I went with some nutserts that I had handy. Now while I use nutserts, I really don?t like then ? and I especially don?t like them on thin sheet metal!

Sure enough, somewhere after I?d been flying a couple of years, I was installing or removing the fairing on one side, and spun the nutsert in the belly. Well, once they are spun, you?re pretty much done with that size. I had used #6?s, anticipating having to replace them someday, so I was able to go up to a #8. Of course, this happened on the other side as well. The other day, I was checking under the gear leg close-out plate, which meant removing the fairing, and sure enough ? I spun a nutsert again ? dang! There is no way I wanted to go up to a #10, so I checked with one of our community sheet metal experts, Rick Galati for his advice on a fastener to use in a ?blind? compartment, figuring that he knows pretty much all the tricks after a career in aircraft fabrication, his answer? He didn?t know of a good way to do it either ? so he simply put his lower fastener about two inches ahead of where I had mine ? on the gear leg close-out panel, which is removable!

Next time I have some epoxy mixed up, I?ll fill the old hole and clean up that seam ? and maybe even clean off the belly oil?.
IMG_0248.JPG


Dohh!! Of course dummy! Why I never saw something so obvious before, I do not know. It took me all of about 30 minutes to mark and drill both sides, remove the panels, install nutplates, and put everything back together ? never having to worry about nutserts again. Except, of course, the ones in the forward corners?.I am going to (continue to) treat those with unbelievable care ? I certainly don?t have an obvious fix for those if they spin?

Paul
 
Paul...
Since these areas of the fuselage were all closed up, I couldn?t install nutplates.
We managed to use Nutplates here... albeit held in with blind rivets. You can get a finger in to hold the nutplate forward / aft of the gear leg. It did take a bit of time to work it out... ;)

Andy
 
Offered here in more detail is how I attached each main intersection fairing. Held in place with 2 screws, the forward one is a machine screw. The aft screw is a self-tapping #6.

2rho6iq.jpg
 
Intersection Fairings

Paul,

I couldn't make myself split the fairings after laying up the glass. So I didn't! I added a extra couple of layers of glass on the inside to stiffen them up, and I used the two outboard screws that hold the gear leg access panel on to anchor the fairings as well. The fairings will slide down to the wheel when the two screws are removed, and the gear leg fairing can be removed from the top.

The only challenge was sanding, filling and painting them on the gear leg. Still, I'm glad I did it this way.


2ywflmg.jpg


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Next time I have some epoxy mixed up, I?ll fill the old hole and clean up that seam ? and maybe even clean off the belly oil?

As I'm a relative neophyte when it comes to composite work, it never ceases to amaze me what the true fiberglass artists can accomplish. Why, some builders are so comfortable with epoxy that they use it as a cleaning agent! ;)

mcb
 
JB Weld is good stuff

When I install a nutsert, I like to put some JB Weld on it before installing it. So far I have not had one spin out on me.
 
Keyed

Are you guys using the Keyed ones? Seems like these would be less likely to spinout.
 
This might sound like a dumb question, but....

couldn't you just put a few dabs of silicone caulk in there, and just stick it on there like glue? I would think that would hold them in place, and then, when you want to remove them, just pull them off and work the remaining caulk off with your finger and re-apply to re-fasten?

I haven't done those yet, but it doesn't seem like that critical of a structural part...
 
Outside the box

Paul,
I also faced this problem when it came time to attach my upper fairings. I did install nutplates in the removeable gear access panel but needed a few additional ones to pull the fairings etc up nice and tight. I thought outside the box and installed nutplates on the exterior of the aircraft with blind rivets making sure to orient the nutplates so the fairings would hide them. Used blind rivets to install them. They are so thin, that if oriented correctly and moved off the edge 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch, the fairing will pull up nice and tight and be very secure. Can get photos if needed if I didn't explain this correctly.
 
I thought outside the box and installed nutplates on the exterior of the aircraft with blind rivets making sure to orient the nutplates so the fairings would hide them. .

Clever... So you run the screws in to the nutplates essential "backwards" from how we normally use nutplates...I like it!
 
Yep

That's what I did too. Countersunk dimpled the nut plate and used countersunk pop rivets. Pretty flush.

You can also give them a little tap tap tap with a hammer or rivet gun once they are mounted and "dent" them into the aluminum panel just slightly for a near flush fit. It all gets covered by the fairing.

Two of my screws are lined up on the heavier longeron angle so I just tap female threaded those holes to hold the screws without nutplates.
 
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I cant picture what you mean by attaching the nutplates on the"outside"of the fuselage. Could you explain or show a photo?
I am facing the same challenge.
Nordo
 
Paul.
Not really backwards, it just doesn't sandwich the fuse skin in between the nutplate and the fairing. Maybe a photo will help as I'm not really good at explaining things. This is from a 7 thats in my shop for paint.
2010-11-17_17-43-38_404.jpg

Sometimes a picture is worth more than I can explain. :D
 
Bill,

Now there's a solution I've never seen before! You really thought out of the box on this one. If the #6 holes for the self-tapping screws I installed ever wallow out beyond #8, I will surely use your alternative method. This idea is very clever and worthy for inclusion in the archives as a Builders Tip. Thank you for sharing.

j8jdpj.jpg
 
Another option to get platenut on inside of skin

What I did on my RV-4 was to drill for the platenut then enlarge the center hole just enough to squeeze the platenut through. Using a magnet, some patience and fiddling around, position the platenut to get clecoes in place. Then rivet in place with blind rivets. Again, not structural because the center hole size, but plenty good for fairings.

N144SH
 
Bill,

Now there's a solution I've never seen before! You really thought out of the box on this one. If the #6 holes for the self-tapping screws I installed ever wallow out beyond #8, I will surely use your alternative method. This idea is very clever and worthy for inclusion in the archives as a Builders Tip. Thank you for sharing.
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I agree Bill - very original, and should be just fine for fairings...definitely worth putting in the "Tips" section for posterity!

Paul
 
Awesome idea

Bill, I like the way you think. I'm assuming you drilled a large hole so the "tall" portion of the nutplate is up inside the skin, then blind-riveted the normal holes. I'm dealing with this issue right now and have reluctantly decided on #6 sheet metal screws held in with Loctite. I will check to see if I can fit the nutplates in there like you did...I like that idea a lot better than sheet metal screws.

Jim Bower
St. Louis
RV-6A flying
 
That reverse nutplate idea is golden! In the past I have done what another poster said and that was use rivnuts with a dab of JB Weld to keep them from ever spinning and so far it has worked.
 
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