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Tip: Secure and Removable co-pilot stick

R

rvtach

Well Known Member
Van's copilot stick comes as 2 pieces with the actual stick separate and removable which is nice because it is not in the co-pilot's way on a long flight. I like this removable feature and more importantly so does my wife. Van's has issued a service bulletin (or some such mandatory fix/ warning) some months ago in the wake of an accident caused by this stick coming out upon landing and now they say we're supposed to drill a hole through the whole she-bang and put a bolt in it.

I did this on my -7 but I think it might be applicable to all the side by sides and maybe even the -8's. Here's how I addressed Van's requirement to secure the co-pilot's control stick.

IMG_1111.JPG


IMG_1124.JPG


I drilled a hole from the front through one 2 layers of material (the stick and the WD-611)...

IMG_1128.JPG


... and stole one of these "dealies" from some equipment at work. I replaced it with a bolt that will never need to be replaced. Desperate times call for desperate measures! I mean I looked everywhere and couldn't find one of these for sale. Not even sure what they are called. They are everywhere but nobody sells them. You can get plastic ones at the pool supply place but I never could find a metal one.

IMG_1129.JPG


The "dealy" slips inside the stick and protrudes from the hole.

IMG_1105.JPG


The stick goes into the WD-611...

IMG_1110.JPG


and locks securely in place but is still removable.
 
Mel said:
You can also use a quick release pin.
Click to expand...

I considered that but it seemed like this would be easier to insert with the stick boot in place and no chance of dropping the pin this way. I drilled the holes such that they line up when the stick is bottomed out in WD-611. So to insert the stick you depress the button, shove the stick all the way in and then rotate the stick until it clicks into place. The thing I didn't like about using the pin (I bought several of them to try) was that you have to get the holes lined up before the pin will go in. Also you'd have to be careful to avoid clearance issues with the pin interfering with full range of motion of the controls. Probably no big deal but the button dealy seemed easier to me.
 
That's exactly what I'm looking for. I found the thing at McMaster-Carr, under Pins. It's called a Quick Release Button Connector.
 
Search on part number 92988A650.

If one of you buys a pack, I'll buy one off of you.

McMaster-Carr said:
Type 410 SS Quick-Release Button Connector Single Button Dog Leg,
.250" Dia, .28" Height
In stock at $7.66 per Pack
This product is sold in Packs of 5

Part Number: 92988A650 $7.66 per Pack of 5
Material Type: Stainless Steel
Finish: Plain
Stainless Steel Type: 410 Stainless Steel
Pin Type: Pins for Telescoping Tubing
Pins for Telescoping Tubing Type: Quick-Release Button Connector
Quick-Release Button Connector Type: Single Button Dog Leg
System of Measurement: Inch
Length: 1.40"
Rockwell Hardness: Minimum C42
Specifications Met: Not Rated
Installation Instructions: With a connector installed within the smaller tube, push the smaller tube inside the larger tube until the connector button pops into a hole.
For Round Tubing ID: .45"-.80"
For Square Tubing ID: .37"-.80"
Button Diameter: .250"
Button Height: .28"
Connector Width: .365"
Connector Thickness: .018"
Click to expand...
 
If you're looking for a different solution, look for "cotterless hitch pins" at your nearest hardware store. You'll probably find the length/diameter you need for a buck and a half.
 
N941WR said:
Search on part number 92988A650.

If one of you buys a pack, I'll buy one off of you.
Click to expand...


Dude - it's less than 8 bucks for five. If an AMU (aviation monetary unit) is $1k, then let's say an XAMU (experimental AMU) is $100. That's .08 AMUs, practically free.

I say, "splurge" and buy your own bag.

Do you squeek when you walk? :D
 
Great Idea!

This is a really good solution, much better than a pin that is not captured. I worry about dropping that thing every time. I'm going to put this on my McMaster list for the next order.

Thanks.
 
Good tip. I wasn't going to comply with the SB because I fly with so many passengers who don't like the stick in their way. This gives me a solution.

I'm sure McMaster-Carr is tired of my tiny parts orders by now, but here I go again!

Mike Schipper
RV-9A - N63MS - Flying (www.my9a.com)
RV-10 - #576 - Fuselage( www.rvten.com)
 
There is an easier way...

My stick is not in the plane any time that my wife goes with me. So I remove and replace it often. I wanted to be easy and secure to replace it.

I attached some Velcro (2 one inch wide strips) to the stick and weldment. After putting the stick in I then 'tape' across the Velcro in two places with the other Velcro. Done.:D

I would defy anyone to pull my stick out while the Velcro is holding it.:p

Kent
 
Side benefit of working on the river, you never know what will float past. I snagged a broken kayak paddle and low and behold, it had a nice SS spring button. So I got my Pax stick lock installed.

RV7294.jpg
 
I WILL AGREE TO THIS......

kentb said:
My stick is not in the plane any time that my wife goes with me. So I remove and replace it often. I wanted to be easy and secure to replace it.

I attached some Velcro (2 one inch wide strips) to the stick and weldment. After putting the stick in I then 'tape' across the Velcro in two places with the other Velcro. Done.:D

I would defy anyone to pull my stick out while the Velcro is holding it.:p

Kent
Click to expand...

THIS WORKED FOR ME........... http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=116356&postcount=15 :rolleyes:
 
rvtach said:
Van's copilot stick comes as 2 pieces with the actual stick separate and removable which is nice because it is not in the co-pilot's way on a long flight. I like this removable feature and more importantly so does my wife. Van's has issued a service bulletin (or some such mandatory fix/ warning) some months ago in the wake of an accident caused by this stick coming out upon landing and now they say we're supposed to drill a hole through the whole she-bang and put a bolt in it.

I did this on my -7 but I think it might be applicable to all the side by sides and maybe even the -8's. Here's how I addressed Van's requirement to secure the co-pilot's control stick.

IMG_1111.JPG


IMG_1124.JPG


I drilled a hole from the front through one 2 layers of material (the stick and the WD-611)...

IMG_1128.JPG


... and stole one of these "dealies" from some equipment at work. I replaced it with a bolt that will never need to be replaced. Desperate times call for desperate measures! I mean I looked everywhere and couldn't find one of these for sale. Not even sure what they are called. They are everywhere but nobody sells them. You can get plastic ones at the pool supply place but I never could find a metal one.

IMG_1129.JPG


The "dealy" slips inside the stick and protrudes from the hole.

IMG_1105.JPG


The stick goes into the WD-611...

IMG_1110.JPG


and locks securely in place but is still removable.
Click to expand...

I have one of the Easy Up outdoor canopies that uses these button lock mechanisms for the extending legs. The material covering is about shot so I shall rob these pieces before trashing the frame... ! :D
 
I have one of the Easy Up outdoor canopies that uses these button lock mechanisms for the extending legs. The material covering is about shot so I shall rob these pieces before trashing the frame... !
Click to expand...

I like to think of it as recycling or building "green":D......ok, ok I'm just cheap
 
Velcro pics...

Would anyone have any Velcro installation pictures? Sounds easiest I can think of...
 
yes, I'm cheap

Anybody have one of these McMaster Carr Quick Release Button Connectors to sell? If so, please contact me, thanks!
 
co-stick solution

....is it worth mentioning here that one hole thru the stick is preferable to two?

The spring clip looks like a good idea.

one caveat, I've seen a thread citing a weakened stick is a liability, and can be bent or broken with extreme back pressure.
Perhaps the front is not the ideal place to drill the hole. side? Rear?
 
Flyboy,

I'm not an engineer, but putting the hole in the stick where it overlaps the bracket should not be nearly the issue that putting a hole in the stick above the bracket would be. As shown, that hole is in an area where there are basically two layers of steel, so not likely to bend.

my 2c

greg
 
spring button

I like the spring thing button because it looks like you only have to drill one hole on a tube rather than two holes all the way through the stick.
 
flyboy1963 said:
....is it worth mentioning here that one hole thru the stick is preferable to two?

The spring clip looks like a good idea.

one caveat, I've seen a thread citing a weakened stick is a liability, and can be bent or broken with extreme back pressure.
Perhaps the front is not the ideal place to drill the hole. side? Rear?
Click to expand...

Im no engineer, but think you may pull the wings off long before the stick bends or breaks. If this were a issue it would be well documented.
 
C-type Snap Button

I thought I?d add this here for reference. I know many of us have used the Dog leg quick connector for our copilot stick from McMaster-Carr. I also know that it this type causes interference by blocking the I.D. of the stick when inserted. I was cruising the interwebs (on break?.yeah on my break) and found these guys. Valco / Valley tool and Die in Ohio. They manufacture several type of these push buttons. They call them snap buttons. I gave them a call and they sent me a sample of the zinc plate of the C-type (C-131) http://valcocleve.com/productdetail.asp?pid=C-131&cat=snap&category=C%20Style%20Button with .25?D x .25?H for .75? I.D. tubes. FITS PERFECTLY! Thought I?d add this to the options for us that go this route. They do offer small orders of 4 or so, but if you call and ask nicely they may send you a free sample.

*Note: The dog leg was sent to me from another member here on VAF which I did appreciate. Unfortunately it was to large for this application but shown here for visual comparison.

20160210_144052%25255B1%25255D.jpg


20160210_144220%25255B1%25255D.jpg


20160210_144454%25255B1%25255D.jpg


20160210_144605%25255B1%25255D.jpg
 
Carlos -Thanks for the post and find. This design solves the whole wire interference issue. Yes a PTT on the panel is a good idea too, but this allows other wiring as well.

I will call and order tomorrow!
 
Extras

I just place an order for the C-131 clip. They sell in lots of 4, and with shipping it will be about $12. I plan to keep 2 for myself, so if anyone is interested in the other 2, let me know.

Jim
RV8 N37PK
 
Funny story...

Back when I was building I bought a large pack of these things and only needed one so I gave the rest away for free here on VAF.

2 of the 4 came back to me because I was a few pennies short on the postage I put on the envelope and the folks that wanted them refused to pay the postage due.... yes it really happened! :p
 
Brantel said:
Funny story...

Back when I was building I bought a large pack of these things and only needed one so I gave the rest away for free here on VAF.

2 of the 4 came back to me because I was a few pennies short on the postage I put on the envelope and the folks that wanted them refused to pay the postage due.... yes it really happened! :p
Click to expand...

Your right Brantel, it did. I was one of those. I didn't get any notice from my post office until after it was returned with no explanation as to why until I went there in person and inquired. We had just had the house built and moved into the new neighborhood. I don't know why they didn't notify me. I was not happy with USPS that day.
 
Last edited:
Reviving this thread. Anyone still have any extra of these quick release buttons? If you're in Northern California I'd be happy to stop by and take one!
 
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