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  #1  
Old 12-28-2015, 12:35 AM
Aero_Octaveus Aero_Octaveus is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 152
Default Feedback on wing wiring

Hi Folks, just hoping for some feedback before I start drilling holes in the ribs for my wing wiring. Just a quick idea of what I intend for the plane. VFR/IFR Capable, Dynon Avionics (Skyview) and AeroLEDs - Aerosun VX and Pulsar Lighting.

Left Wing - Dynon Heated AOA Pitot, Vans stall warning (As a backup), Pitot heat controller, Wingtip NAV Antenna and lighting as above.

Right Wing - Dynon autopilot servo and lighting as above.

Any input to things I may be have missed would sure be appreciated.

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2016 Donation Current
http://garetsrv.blogspot.ca/

Last edited by Aero_Octaveus : 12-28-2015 at 12:37 AM.
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  #2  
Old 12-28-2015, 12:45 AM
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SMO SMO is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Salmon Arm, BC
Posts: 889
Default

You might want a magnetometer out on the end of a wing. As well you might want OAT probe(s) somewhere on the wing (ie inspection panel).
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  #3  
Old 12-28-2015, 09:40 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 2,726
Default Holes

If you go with the plumbing at the location planned, give some thought to how the plumbing will pass the bellcrank. I ran mine through but had to fab a bracket to hold the plumbing lines and keep them away from the bellcrank. Photos are on the "wing" page of my blog. I drew it up. If you want a copy of the drawing, send me an e-mail.

Also, once you decide, drill one with small pilot holes. Clamp an opposite rib to it and match drill. Use these two as masters to clamp and drill the others then enlarge all the holes to final dimension.
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Larry Larson
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http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2017. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (1,800+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.

Last edited by wirejock : 12-28-2015 at 09:44 AM.
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  #4  
Old 12-28-2015, 11:05 AM
Aero_Octaveus Aero_Octaveus is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 152
Default The bracket is a great idea

Yes Larry...the bracket is a great idea. I've looked at your blog and noticed that. PM sent to you with my email address. I would really appreciate the drawing

Thanks Mark...Exactly the kind of input I was hoping for. Now I have a bunch of reading to do on Magnetometer locations
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2016 Donation Current
http://garetsrv.blogspot.ca/

Last edited by Aero_Octaveus : 12-28-2015 at 11:08 AM.
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  #5  
Old 12-29-2015, 10:00 AM
rapid_ascent rapid_ascent is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 823
Default

I made a spreadsheet with all of the rib holes and which wires/tube runs where. It is very helpful to keep track of everything. I started using my spreadsheet when I was drilling the rib holes. I have an arrangement like you are proposing. Some holes are not needed in all of the ribs. For example the pitot is in the middle of the wing so those holes don't need to be placed in the outer ribs.

In my case there are lots of wires. OAT was mentioned. I have a couple of those. Stall warner if you are going to put it in is also missing from your drawing. Some people put a nav antenna in the wingtip so a coax would be reqired. Heated pitot power and status wires if you want one of those.
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  #6  
Old 12-29-2015, 10:25 AM
Maxrate Maxrate is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: League city, TX
Posts: 335
Default

Garet,

One more thing to think about is the coax run for the nav antenna. Here is how I routed the coax around the the belcrank assembly. On the other wing think about the autopilot servo and other nav antenna if running dual nav/comms.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/...99c8dbeea7.jpg

http://websites.expercraft.com/markm...y&log_id=81356
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  #7  
Old 12-29-2015, 10:56 PM
drone_pilot drone_pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Hobbs, NM
Posts: 194
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Sounds like my setup is exactly the same as yours. I ran the wires for my pitot heat in the 3/4" main conduit at the bottom of the rib. I did the same with the Dynon Roll servo. I just cut a slot in the black plastic conduit and fed it in from the heater and servo. Looks like I've got my components on the same wings as your planning. The aileron pushrod passes through the forward lightening hole and in my opinion, I'd rather have everything routed as not to get in the way of it. It's a tight area between the root rib and the fuselage so by routing all the wiring thru the 3/4" hole, I can go straight into the fuselage and do a better job of staying out of the way of the aileron push tube. I'd rather turn the corner with the wires inside of the fuselage where it is easier and more accessible to inspect than at the root rib. I put a service loop in my wiring out at the tip rib for the AeroLED NAV/Strobe and AeroSun landing/Taxi Lights. I put another service loop at the Dynon pitot heat controller which I mounted to the inspection plate. I work with computer networks and I am a firm believer in using home runs on the wires and not adding connectors at the root rib, etc. It's not my intention to ever remove the wings now that they're on but if I ever need to, I can cut the wires at the root rib and use the service loops to aid in installing electrical connectors if ever needed. My temperature probe is mounted under the HS for shade from the hot New Mexico sun while sitting outside somewhere.

I'm a fair weather flyer and have gone straight Dynon on everything ( No finger pointing between avionics vendors if something doesn't work right). All antenna's are on the fuselage so I have no need to route coax in the wings. I try to follow the KISS principle with a close second of keeping everything as easy to access and service as possible. I think "easy access" may be an oxymoron when used in the same sentence with the word "airplane".

At first I was going IFR everything including the sink from mammas kitchen, then I got honest with myself and the flying I enjoy vs the flying I would never really consider doing unless fleeing the evil empire for my life. I feel that I have a really nice dual Dynon setup with tons more capability than I'll personally need. At that, I have a very complex capability yet simple panel with not too many buttons and switches to figure out. I have flown the same Cessna 182 since 1985. I have tried to keep my switch layout very similar to the Cessna and that gives me one less thing to get accustomed to. Rather than overbuild and add weight to your bird, be real with yourself and the type flying you are comfortable with. I feel its better to have a light airplane rather than to be flying a bunch of heavy equipment around the sky that may never truly be used. There is my 10 cents worth in three disgustingly long paragraphs!
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RV-7A Tip Up - Done!!!
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Transition training done!
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Last edited by drone_pilot : 12-29-2015 at 11:00 PM. Reason: Fix a paragraph
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  #8  
Old 12-30-2015, 01:27 AM
Aero_Octaveus Aero_Octaveus is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 152
Default Great Advice!

Ok, Great advice and tons of food for thought. Really tough to find information on where to mount the remote magnetometer from Dynon as it is so new.

Drone Pilot...Excellent advice on running the roll servo and pitot heat from the 3/4" conduit. Didn't even think of that! It would take the wiring out of the 7/16" holes and free them up for potential NAV/Comm wiring. I am a bit nervous about adding extra holes beyond those described on Van's PDF on wing wiring hole recommendations, and this will help avoid that.

Point well taken on the KISS advice. I agree, light and simple is the key. I just don't want to paint myself into corners down the road because I didn't do enough research while building the wings . Better to allow for things and not need them, than not allow for it and need it.
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RV-7A
2016 Donation Current
http://garetsrv.blogspot.ca/
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  #9  
Old 12-30-2015, 03:00 PM
drone_pilot drone_pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Hobbs, NM
Posts: 194
Default

By the time you get near the end of the build, you start wanting to try the whole thing all over again. I've sure learned a lot in the build process and sometimes I feel like I could cut the build time into much less than half. Likewise, the folks in this forum have had some great ideas and techniques that I'd like to try out for myself. I have enjoyed the building/learning almost as much as I do the flying.
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RV-7A Tip Up - Done!!!
Airworthiness Certificate in hand!
Transition training done!
Flying my wings off!
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  #10  
Old 06-23-2017, 08:48 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Worland, Wyoming
Posts: 327
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Ladies and gents, I have brought this thread back up because I'm sure there will be more questions that need answered as it seems Van's has made a change (maybe this has already been asked but I can't find it). The pic below says it all. Van's appears to have removed one of the existing tooling holes. My setup will be almost identical to what is described in the first post with the exception of not putting a nav antenna in the wing tip. So my question now is, the two holes in the forward part of the rib will be needed for the two pitot lines; therefore, is it a good idea to run all of the wires in the same conduit space? The left conduit would be holding, nav lights, landing light, strobes, pitot heat control, and possibly stall warning. The right conduit would be nav lights, landing light, strobes, and autopilot. What say you?

wing rib wiring by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
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