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Voltage Regulator question, back again

n518jh

Member
My 2012 RV-12 with about 360 hours has almost constant low voltage, low amperage signals from the D-180. There was a post that I can't find that suggested a John Deere voltage regulator for about $20. Since I didn't build the plane, and am not an engineer, is it a simple job to replace the voltage regulator and would that likely solve my problem?
 
Voltage Regulator

I realized my voltage was going bad in early June. I evaluated the options and bought 2 John Deere regulators for $20.00 each. when they arrived I was involved in adding ADS-B out, ADS-B in, the auto-pilot control module, connecting the AOA, and adding a new stick grip with PTT, Ident, Auto-pilot disconnect, go around and pitch trim. So I felt that was more importan than dealing with the voltage regulator. I worked three weeks, 5 days a week and got those projects finished and working properly. The last test flight I did was the Saturday before Oshkosh and I was leaving Sunday to go to Oshkosh. I noticed that the battery was not charging. I suspected that the voltage regulator was at fault, but I did not have time to troubleshoot the problem and fix it, even though I had two, brand new John Deere regulators. So I drove to Oshkosh and when I got home started working on the problem. I installed the first new aJohn Deere reguolator and the battery still would not charge. I installed the second new John Deere regulator and it would not charge. So at this point I began trouble shooting the problem and discovered that during the course of installing the electronic equipment I had not disconnected the battery, and that failure propally cause a 1 amp fues in the charging line to blow. That `1 amp fuse is soldered on a board in the switch module and can only be repaired by Vans. I packaged up the switch module and was ready to take it to the post office when I got an e-mail from VAn's telling me that theyt now have an alternative wiring plan for the voltage regulator. It basically jumps one wire from one terminal on the voltage regulator to another wire and it solvesthe problem I tried that new wiring diagram and it worked for me. It may work for you also. YOu lcan find this new wiring plan in the diagram for the new Silent Hektik regulators. Doing this install should save problems baciuse the Silent Hektik prlvides overvoltatage protection. It also provides a warning light on the panel if you have the skyview system to tell you something is wrong with the charging system. If you get a EarthX battery, it has overvoltage protection for the battery. It aslo has an allert to tell you if something in the batery is not functioning in the system.

I think both of these systems are a major upgrade to the basic RV-12.I think thiese upgrades will saye money when dealing with thorsands of dollars of avionics that will be progected from surges, etc.

So I have a Silent Hettik voltage regulator ordered and when I get it I am going to order a EarthX battery. I think my RV-12 will have better equipment and that better equ9i[ment will u[hold its value better. Just some thoughts.
 
Installation is easy for John Deere AM101406 Voltage Regulator. The Ducati connector doesn't fit John Deere. You need to remove the spade lugs from the plastic connector housing and clip each lug individually onto the JD terminals.

The JD regulator has one less terminal on it than the Ducati regulator. There's no "R" terminal on the John Deere. That means one of the heavy white wires is not used and can be tied off to the wiring bundle. They come from the same source anyway so it doesn't hurt anything. Be sure to cover the end with some shrink tubing to insulate it from shorting out against the firewall. The remaining heavy white wire is connected to the "B" terminal. Also, on both regulators, terminal "L" is not used. I think it is used to drive an indicator light circuit. The two heavy yellow terminals come from the generator and are connected to the two "G" terminals. Doesn't matter which wire to which terminal. The remaining small yellow wire connects to the "C" or sometimes labeled "F" post. This is the bus voltage detect wire from the ignition switch.

I mounted the JD VR in the same location on the firewall shelf using an aluminum sub-plate for better heat dissipation. I used thermal paste on the base of VR so heat transfers to the sub-plate.

As standard operating procedure now, when through flying I open the oil door on the top of the cowling to let heat escape.

You ask if this will solve your problem… if battery is original from 2012 and 360 TT you may be looking at a new battery. Also, if you fly short flights its possible battery is not being replenished. I use Odyssey 6 Amp Portable Charger [OBC-6A] which has features for desulfate and trickle charging.
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. . . So I have a Silent Hettik voltage regulator ordered and when I get it I am going to order a EarthX battery.

Interesting - does EarthX now approve their battery for the PM alternators? At one time they had withdrawn recommendation due to AC content of the alternator.
 
Voltage Regulator

I have talked with Kathy from EarthX at Sun 'N Fun, Oshkosh, and on the telephone the other day. I told her I have an RV-12 and she recommended one of the batteries, an ETX 680. So while we didn't specifically talk about the PM alternator, she knew it was an RV-12 with a Rotax engine.
 
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Installation is easy for John Deere AM101406 Voltage Regulator

Thanks for the detailed instructions. That sounds like a good solution that I could accomplish by myself with just a little local help. Mark

A bit more questioning about the John Deere AM101406 , On Amazon there seem to be several vendors of the JD replacement all around $20 the one I ordered is from DB, is that the recommended distributor? Mark
 
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I purchased the JD 'look alike' from one of the 4 aftermarket $20 sets. Are they all alike, or one better? Thanks for a reply. Mark
 
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