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Starter gremlin

Kato's 8

Well Known Member
Hi all!
Ive got 45 almost problem free hours on my new RV8 now and my first starting issue happened yesterday away from home. I turn on master, raise the flaps, set the mix etc and turn the key to start.. Click. Try again...Click.
I see 12.5 volts on the voltage and everything powers up fine and dandy. The plane started pre 1 hour flight to destination no prob and inflight voltage reading 14V.
I reached in thru oil door and tugged on wires for soelinoid and starter etc. Tried start. Nothing.
Walked away cursing and contacted a mechanic on field.
Headed back to plane and rotated the Prop forward and backward and contemplated trying to start a prop start.
Got in one last time before the mech showed up and turned on the master and turned the key...It started like nothing was ever wrong! Prop turned quickly and fired right up where as before I only heard a faint click and no movement of prop at all. Just dead.
Please help me with a good approach to isolate the problem. Im guesing I cant do anything until it does this again other than look for loose conection.
Thanks!
 
I "faint click" would seem to indicate that the solenoid engaged, but contactor didn't make contact and pass current to starter. It is not uncommon for this to happen intermittently and is usually a pre-cursor to failure of that part. What type of starter do you have? Some have a solenoid incorporated. Do you have a Starter Solenoid on the firewall? Details here will help with giving you some troubleshooting steps.

You should watch the voltage and amperage when turning the key in these cases, if you can. It will help to diagnose your particular issue.

Larry
 
Larry, I've got the standard lightweight starter supplied with the lycoming engine and the standard black starter solenoid supplied by vans on the firewall battery tray next to the silver master solenoid. All was working without issue until now. Ill check the volt meter while cranking but the prop spins quickly and started in 3rd blade when it works. When not working the voltage reads 12.5 and nothing happens when turning the key. Ill watch the voltage when it's acting up next time.
 
Sounds like Skytec starter, and they have had some bad batches of solenoids.

The Vans start relay draws ~3A, so would hardly pull down the voltage. The starter solenoid draws 20A-40A so will pull down the volts a bit (maybe 11-12V?). The starter is nearer 200A so voltage likely down to <10V.

Suggest speak to Skytec, they're good people, and consider investing in a spare solenoid?
 
Thanks. Guess I should call skytec about starter but I'm confused a bit. Is there an internal solenoid in starter as well as the firewall mounted contact to starter?
 
Larry, I've got the standard lightweight starter supplied with the lycoming engine and the standard black starter solenoid supplied by vans on the firewall battery tray next to the silver master solenoid. All was working without issue until now. Ill check the volt meter while cranking but the prop spins quickly and started in 3rd blade when it works. When not working the voltage reads 12.5 and nothing happens when turning the key. Ill watch the voltage when it's acting up next time.

If the starter has a solenoid, you will see it a second cylinder attached to the main starter that is about a 1/3 or less in size. If this is case, you'll need to determine which solenoid is intermittently failing. They both perform the same function, essentially a relay. Unfortunately there is no real test for intermittent failures. They either contact or they don't (sometimes they will partially contact and give sluggish performance with a strong battery - not your symptoms). You will need to listen the next time it fails to see which one it is. They make a noticeable click when engaged and you should be able to easily hear it and feel it. If you get a single, solid click and no crank, it can means a failing solenoid or something else. The continuity can be tested with an ohmmeter. If you hear a succession of clicks, it usually means a low battery or bad wiring (preventing adequate current to hold it open). This doesn't match your description of symptoms.

Your challenge will be figuring which one is failing. a good solenoid will provide a solid, clean click as the contactors meet and can be further confirmed with an ohmmeter. a solenoid getting hung up (this can happen when new, due to a burr or mfg imperfection) will give a less solid/sharp click or no click at all, as the contactors or not meeting or not meeting solidly.

If your starter does not have a solenoid, I would just replace the Starter Solenoid on the firewall. It doesn't cost much and is not worth the hassle to wait for the next failure to test or see if it works out the burr or flaw.

Good luck,

Larry
 
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Ok thanks. I happen yo have a new unused starter solenoid I can replace at firewall so I'll do that and then see if symptoms reappear. I'll also check connections from battery to solenoids yo starter real good. If I get a repeat in symptoms someday, and hopefully not when I'm far away, I'll have to assume a problem with starter and can call Skytec.
Thanks!
 
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