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  #1  
Old 08-10-2017, 08:54 AM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Meridian ID, Aspen CO
Posts: 2,234
Default Installing brakes drawings?

Is there any better drawings than C2 about how to install the Cleveland brakes?
My question is on the right brake, I will need to move the zirk fitting from the top to the bottom so I can put the blue 90 degree fitting to connect to my brake hose. When I try to take the zirk fitting out, it is very tight - to the point I am afraid I will damage it trying to remove it. That gives me cause to believe it is tight for a reason.

Am I missing a drawing or better instructions? Maybe I need to heat it a bit to loosen? Thanks
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Last edited by rockwoodrv9 : 08-10-2017 at 09:16 AM. Reason: Had drawing page incorrect
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  #2  
Old 08-10-2017, 09:07 AM
BillL BillL is online now
 
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Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockwoodrv9 View Post
Is there any better drawings than C4 about how to install the Cleveland brakes?
My question is on the right brake, I will need to move the zirk fitting from the top to the bottom so I can put the blue 90 degree fitting to connect to my brake hose. When I try to take the zirk fitting out, it is very tight - to the point I am afraid I will damage it trying to remove it. That gives me cause to believe it is tight for a reason.

Am I missing a drawing or better instructions? Maybe I need to heat it a bit to loosen? Thanks
Yes, a heat gun or skillful application of a butane torch. They are just tight. Use loctite 567 on reassembly. Firmly restrain all the parts when removing.

I think you mean the bleed fitting? not zerk?? Right?? It is in an adapter. It is hollow with a tapered tip, easy to over tighten. Just the adapter is really tight.
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  #3  
Old 08-10-2017, 09:15 AM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
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Location: Meridian ID, Aspen CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
Yes, a heat gun or skillful application of a butane torch. They are just tight. Use loctite 567 on reassembly. Firmly restrain all the parts when removing.

I think you mean the bleed fitting? not zerk?? Right?? It is in an adapter. It is hollow with a tapered tip, easy to over tighten. Just the adapter is really tight.
Correct Bill, it is the bleed fitting. The plan page is C2 rather than C4. The instructions are lacking as far as what I need to be assured I get them correct.

Thanks Bill.
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O-320 D2A
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  #4  
Old 08-10-2017, 09:50 AM
gasman gasman is offline
 
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Use a pen propane torch on a clean (no brake fluid) unit. Heat to warm to the touch around the part to be removed. With the bleeder seated, remove as a unit.
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  #5  
Old 08-10-2017, 12:51 PM
Larco Larco is offline
 
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Location: DVT Phoenix
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I'v never had to heat the cylinder to remove the fitting. Just used a GOOD box end wrench or 6 point socket and some grunt. However,

If you do heat the cylinder beware of the O ring that is inside on the piston. If you get the cylinder to hot you best replace the O ring. If you replace the O ring be sure to install the piston correctly. Long portion out.

Good luck
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  #6  
Old 08-10-2017, 05:30 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is online now
 
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Or, just remove the piston/o-ring assy before applying heat...
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  #7  
Old 08-10-2017, 05:43 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
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I was able to get it out by taking it to my friends hangar and using his vice and my big box end wrench. Im getting real close to first engine start so I need my brakes working so I can drive around the airport!!

Thanks for the help.
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O-320 D2A
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  #8  
Old 08-10-2017, 09:08 PM
Larco Larco is offline
 
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You might want to review your engine break in procedure before doing much driving around the airport. It would be a shame to glaze your cylinders??
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  #9  
Old 08-10-2017, 09:44 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larco View Post
You might want to review your engine break in procedure before doing much driving around the airport. It would be a shame to glaze your cylinders??
I know. It just sounds fun!
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O-320 D2A
Panel andWiring done
Final assembly and paint!
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  #10  
Old 08-10-2017, 11:18 PM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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First engine run, be sure to restrain the airplane with some tie downs or chocks. The fresh brake pads and rotors won't have much grip to keep you in one place. After a couple of static engine runs, be careful the first time you want to taxi it around. You'll really need to stomp on the brakes a few times to bed them in.
I just changed my brake pads and it has taken a few hard braking's to get them to feel like they will slow you down.
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