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  #31  
Old 06-21-2017, 07:07 AM
ssokol ssokol is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 19
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So last night happened to be the monthly meeting for my EAA chapter, and I was on deck for the show and tell. I decided to make it an opportunity to work on my hot start procedure with a group that included at least half a dozen mechanics...

After talking through the options everyone here has provided, I used the lean-to-rich method without boost pump and found that it worked flawlessly. Here's what's now in my checklist under Hot Start Procedure:

1) Mixture to ICO
2) Throttle full open
3) NO boost pump on initial attempt
4) Master on
5) Electronic Ignition On
6) Start, gradually enriching mixture

To test it out I got the engine up to temp, then parked it for 20 minutes or so to let the fuel in the divider and lines boil. I followed the procedure and the engine started on 5 - 6 blades. I shut down, gave it another few minutes and tried it again with the same result.

I think I must have been flooding it before, as I was trying to start with the mixture rich and the throttle cracked - the same basic procedure I used on carbureted engines previously.

I'm going to do some more testing this afternoon - it's supposed to be about 95 here today so it should be a pretty good opportunity to see if I've got it down.

Many thanks to everyone who responded with suggestions. Looks like VAF just saved me the cost of a new battery!
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Steve Sokol
EAA Chapter 612
Liberty, MO

RV-6A N101PR
500+ hours
2017 =VAF= Donation Paid
Open Flight Solutions - Maker Of FlightBox ADS-B
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  #32  
Old 06-21-2017, 07:33 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is online now
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 2,246
Default

That's very similar to the technique I was taught in the Swift. We'd begin with throttle wide open, mixture at idle cutoff, and as soon as the engine fired, 'swap the levers'.

Amazing what we put up with to have 'aircraft quality', ain't it? You're kinda cheating, with that electronic ignition.

Charlie
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  #33  
Old 07-17-2017, 03:46 PM
Sue Sue is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ok
Posts: 17
Default Hot start

I have a optima red top battery, you can taxi on
The starter if you want too, little heavier than a
"Aircraft" battery but after 4years still cranks
Forever
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  #34  
Old 08-04-2017, 02:19 PM
Boyd Birchler Boyd Birchler is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: IN
Posts: 109
Default Hot Start

Very informative Don Maxwell video on hot starting technique on a IO-360A1B6D. Works quite well.

Video for Gladewater texas Mooney hot start Don▶ 8:54
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbRYqS-fRo0
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  #35  
Old 08-07-2017, 09:52 AM
664781 664781 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Powder Springs, Ga
Posts: 266
Default Bad Battery

I switched from my tried and true Wal-Mart lawn tractor battery last year to the PC680. Well it just died after 1.5 years. Never had a problem with my Wal-Mart batteries so lesson learned. I'm back to replacing the lawn tractor battery every 2 years for $30.

The removed battery goes to my Snapper lawn mower so no starting problem there either!
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Kurt Lohmueller A&P
Powder Springs, Ga
RV6A "Kurt's Toy" - Flying
RV12 - Flying - Sold
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  #36  
Old 08-07-2017, 10:12 AM
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AlexPeterson AlexPeterson is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Maple Grove, MN
Posts: 1,980
Default PC680 capacity

I've been running a PC680 most of the life of my plane, three or four of them in the last 14 years or so.

I have FI, so the hot starts do take some care as others have written earlier. That said, every couple years I'll botch one (two types of FI users - those that have and those who will botch a hot start...). The 680 can burn down a starter if you let it - they have an absurd amount of cranking power. Charging voltage, battery age, starter condition, cable condition, solenoid condition and connection conditions all contribute to performance.
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RV6A N66AP 1500+ hours
Maple Grove, MN
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  #37  
Old 08-07-2017, 11:58 AM
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RVbySDI RVbySDI is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Tuttle, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,374
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I kind of like my ECI mechanical fuel injection (FI) with return fuel lines to the feeding tank (i.e. Continental Mechanical FI).

Hot starts for this setup are:
  1. Turn on electric boost pump for a count of 10, then turn it off.
  2. Set mixture full rich and crack throttle 1/8 in (normal starting procedure)
  3. Engage starter.
  4. Engine starts.
  5. Set mixture as appropriate for the specific environmental conditions.
  6. Go fly.
With the return fuel lines the boost pump moves hot fuel out of the fuel lines and replaces it with cool fuel from the fuel tank. No more vapor lock. No more hot start problems.
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RV9A
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  #38  
Old 08-07-2017, 02:12 PM
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Bubblehead Bubblehead is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Keller, TX
Posts: 1,504
Default Two more data points

In 2011 I installed a PC680 in my RV-8 in the aft location behind the baggage compartment floor. 7 years and 550 hours later I decided to move the battery to the firewall to improve the cg with two people and low fuel plus to improve accessibility. Having the battery behind the baggage floor, even with an access door, is a pain.

I bought an EarthX battery box and new master contactor, made some new cables, installed a spare PC680 that had sat on the shelf for 5 years on the front, and pulled the old PC680 out of the back. I charged up the firewall battery and it cranked the engine fine the first time (disregarding a faulty starter ground issue). Several trips later it was still turning the IO-360 over fine.

Last week I got to thinking that maybe after I went to all the trouble of moving the battery location to the firewall I should have sprung for a new PC680 for on the firewall so I took both old batteries first to Autozone for a load test and then to Batteries Plus. Both places said both batteries had a bad cell.

Now it seems to me that a bad cell would have dropped battery voltage a noticeable amount, but maybe not. I gave them both bad batteries and bought a new one for the firewall. Yes, maybe I should have kept one for a spare but with a new battery under warranty and a bad cell in the old one what's the point?

Summary - my experience with PC680 batteries bought in 2011 and 2013, one in service all this time, one left on the shelf, both with bad cells but both turning over the 360 just fine! I think they've proven to me they can do the job and hold up. Perhaps the new one will fail tomorrow but for right now I am happy with the (now 3) PC680's I have bought.
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