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Old 08-23-2012, 10:45 AM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,685
Default It depends on the application, etc.

On the wheel fairings I made the the intersection fairings part of the wheel fairings from the start. Then I made my cuts through that flimsy first layer for separation with the main fairings. That not only got everything together from the start but it also provided a more stable base to work on. The first layer is easy to make a fine cut with an X-acto knife (buy some extra blades because fiberglass does not like being cut with dull or gummed up blades). After that it is a much more significant task. The upper fairings I cut to remove them (don't forget the mold release wax) and built them up off of the airplane as two separate pieces. You kind of get a feel for what is going to work as you do these things.

Bob Axsom
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:15 PM
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sirlegin sirlegin is offline
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 254
Default Upper Fairing

I thought that when the weight was taken off of the wheels, as in flight, the flex of the main gear leg moved inward thereby setting the upper fairing into their intended place as in a tighter fit, conforming to the fuselage.
I believe that Vans states this in the builder's manual.
Am I wrong?
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Old 08-27-2012, 07:31 AM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: St. Paul, MN.
Posts: 4,707

Like a lot of other people, I didn't bother taking the weight off the wheels in the fitting once I realized that the weight issue doesn't impact the alignment of the trailing edge of the fairing, which is all I really care about.

The movement of the leg fairing would impact the up/down position of the fairing within the intersection fairings (which is why the fairings are not permanently attached to the intersection fairings in either location), but it would not impact the alignment of the trailing edge.

That alignment is "captured" by the position of the fairings around the gear leg.

I obsessed -- capital "O" -- over the alignment of the trailing edge. I used lasers and dental floss. I set and checked it dozens of times before finally committing on Saturday with the installation of the intersection fairings (haven't bonded them yet, though).

It seems to me that there's still opportunity for slop in the trailing edge and that the fairings -- at least at this stage -- cannot perfectly capture the trailing edge.

But, I installed them as best I could, took it for a quick test flight around the pattern and all seemed good.

So we stuck my mother in law in...

and went for a ride down to Red Wing and back...

Yahtzee!! The ball was dead centered. It was perfect.

I still have to do the nosewheel leg fairing (I need to cut away more of the slot in the wheelpant to allow the front of the gear leg fairing to fit without interference, and then I'll do the clay-mold things for the intersection fairing.

Oh, and I used a small piece of duct tape to close up the trailing edge of all the intersection fairings. As I get everything glassed up, those, of course, will disappear with bonding. And then I'll slice it as Bob Leffler described above.

I like when things come out the way they're supposed to.
Bob Collins
St. Paul, MN.
Blog: Letters From Flyover Country
Still working on the RV-12iS fuselage
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Last edited by LettersFromFlyoverCountry : 08-27-2012 at 07:33 AM.
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Old 08-13-2017, 09:58 AM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 606

Sorry to bump an old post but it's relevant to this topic. I'm working on my RV-10 wheel pants and decided to do the molded looks with the aftermarket fairing pieces as well.

I've glassed in 3 layers for an overlap and am now working on the micro blending and all that. This is going to take a bit because I'm working the front, then I'll go and work the back, taping the opposite piece and then doing the micro for that part. I'm also doing this while it's mounted to the plane with the leg fairing so it will be more of a precises fit.

Now here's my dilemma, If I don't use clamps on these pieces the split actually lifts about 1/8" from the leg fairing. Is this normal? I'm not sure how rigid these pieces actually need to be. I assume if it's too rigid I can't get it off the leg fairing, if it's not rigid enough will it end up causing issues in the future? Apologize no pictures but it's all clamped up right now while some micro dries.

RV-10 Quickbuild 'Avionics and Interior'
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Last edited by AviatorJ : 08-13-2017 at 04:02 PM.
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