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  #11  
Old 08-13-2017, 05:42 AM
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rmartingt rmartingt is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourier View Post
Straight+offset rivet sets (3/32",1/8",5/32",3/16")
You won't need the 5/32 and 3/16 sets anywhere on a -7. And exactly per plans, you won't need the 3/32 set either. I've found a few places where AN470AD3 rivets are useful though.

You will need a set of 1/8 dimple dies and 1/8 countersink cutters eventually. I splurged a bit on multiple microstop cages so I don't have to keep swapping cutters out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fourier View Post
Makita MAC5200 Air Compressor (3.0 HP, 6.5 CFM, 5.2 gal)
Your tank seems a little small but you'll be able to do all of the riveting etc. work with that compressor. We had a 12gal 115psi unit building my dad's -6 and it did the whole project. I know a lot of guys will insist that you just can't build without some monster 60+gal 240V machine (full disclosure, I have one because I got a good Craigslist deal on it, but I also have a smaller one I used for the first half of my build) but a smaller one is fine. It might be marginal for doing paint, especially the exterior paint.


Quote:
Originally Posted by fourier View Post
My question lies in what best tool to use for riveting. I know this is asked a lot and there is a lot of debate between standard rivet squeezers (Tatco brand is one kit I've considered), the Cleaveland "Main squeeze 22", and, of course the option of pneumatic squeezers (which seem to run at least $600).
I use a Tatco squeezer; it's what we used on Dad's airplane so I got my own. Added a deep yoke (4in?) and the no-hole yoke. Never saw a real need for a pneumatic squeezer. I squeeze dimple everything I can, and only drag out the C-frame if I have to.

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Originally Posted by fourier View Post
Finally, I'm wondering about the usefulness of a band saw for precision cutting of the alclad pieces during construction. Snips seem like a less than ideal solution for some of the precision cuts required in the plans, but maybe I'm overthinking it all.
I use the bandsaw a lot more than the snips. It's also really useful for cutting the angles and extrusions. Get a fine-toothed blade and a benchtop wood bandsaw should work for this. Just don't use it to cut steel.
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  #12  
Old 08-13-2017, 06:00 AM
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mike newall mike newall is offline
 
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Numatx hydraulic squeezer...............

Wait until you have tried it - Oh My !

I won't go back now.

Back to earth - a pneumatic I would say is the essential expensive tool in the build process. Dimpling, squeezing - you just use it so many times that unless you want RSI it will pay back the cost quickly.

DRDT2 far better than batter le rat C frame, so you have a good start.

If you find one, a 6" Oregon flat chain saw file is one of the most useful files we have and - around $6 !
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  #13  
Old 08-13-2017, 06:29 AM
rv8ch rv8ch is offline
 
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Default Band saw - yes!

I didn't buy one, and every time I need to cut some angle or something thicker than 0.032" and I get out the hacksaw or the jigsaw, I regret it. I'm so close to being done, I can't justify it now, but might be suffering from the "sunk cost fallacy".

I recommend you get a decent band saw.
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  #14  
Old 08-13-2017, 07:08 AM
leok leok is offline
 
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I use the band saw all the time. Make sure it has the finest tooth blade on it you can find. 14 TPI or better. My first choice to cut almost any aluminum sheet material

If you don't want a larger compressor you can get a HF air tank and plumb it in sequence before the regulator giving a larger pressurized reserve for less cycling. None of the aircraft sized tools take a large CFM except die grinders.

I have pneumatic squeezer and have never used it. I use the Main Squeeze or the 3X gun for everything.

+1 on bucking bars, especially tungsten. I have about 20 steel and 1 tungsten. I use the tungsten 20 to 1. In fact I don't use the tungsten only when it won't fit. I would pass on the kits if I had it to do again as I use only a few of the bars and a few of the sets. I would buy individually.

Angle die grinder with a small scotchbrite wheel for deburring is a must have in my tool box. I do all edge deburring with that tool. The large bench top scotchbrite wheel is near unusable on large sheets, while the angle die grinder works well on all sizes of work. I also keep several red scotchbrite pads on had for scuffing and the occasional edge deburring task when I am too lazy to turn on the air compressor.

Dremmel with cut off wheels is another must have in my box. I use it for all sorts of small difficult cuts. I also find the 1/8" carbide spiral cutter to work well for odd shaped holes or taking a sliver of material off to get that perfect fit.

I use the back set in the rivet gun constantly. I have a flat steel mushroom I made up out of 2" round steel stock to be a portable back rivet plate that I can handhold against the skin anywhere. I also find the swivel head flush set to be much less prone to smilieys. So that is my go to flush set.

You can't have too many clecos.

As others said, collect them over time. Order as you see a need. THis is a marathon rather than a sprint. You will find the project goes through phases where different tools are needed. Once the sheet metal is done, a whole world of electrical tools will needed etc..

Good Luck. Building an RV-10 is one of the most enjoyable things I have ever done
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  #15  
Old 08-13-2017, 12:03 PM
DRMA DRMA is offline
 
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I have found the Main Squeeze to be an excellent tool for both riveting and also for dimpling in some locations. However I use the DRDT-2 for most of the dimpling.

I also purchased a used pneumatic squeezer through the classifieds section of VAF with a couple of different yokes. I have used this a lot on my RV-10 build, as I find it easier and more accurate to used by myself for riveting that trying to use a gun and bucking bar. But in the end, I wouldn't have given up any of the 3 different riveting options, I have used them all.

I use snips for most thin sheet metal cutting, but the benchtop band saw is great for thicker cuts in things like angle, etc. You could do these cuts with a saber saw or a hack saw, but I find the band saw is easiest tool for may things.

I also agree with the other comments on here that you don't need to buy it all at once. I have found as I have built that I occasionally need a different tool and so buy it at that time.

One lesson I have learned the hard way over several decades of home hobby projects, is the value of spending the extra money on a quality tool. I have regretted it nearly every time that I have purchased a cheap tool in order to save money, with poor/inaccurate results and/or early failure of the tool.

Have fun with your new RV project.
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  #16  
Old 08-13-2017, 01:34 PM
wilddog wilddog is offline
 
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You will need. A bench grinder and a Scotchbright wheel. Get a Dremel tool. Get a small power screwdriver and mount a debur tool on it. I use a bandsaw often and also like a phnematic squeezer. One of the edge rollers that are modified grip pliers are good. An automatic Center punch too.
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