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New (October 2013) LED wingtip landings light discovered

bullojm1

Well Known Member
I have been working on getting new landing lights on my RV for some time now. Earlier this year I purchased some Cree T6 XM-L LED lights from DealXtreme.com. I ran into issues with keeping them cool as they tended to overheat and burn up. I then was deterred because they discontinued selling this light. I was a bit bummed out about this since I thought I could get these to work.

A few months ago I ran across a company called Baja Designs (http://www.bajadesigns.com). They make LED lights for dune buggy's and motorcycles. I was quite impressed with the light these LED pumped out. Many forums raved about how bright they were. They also seemed to be just about the right size to fit into the wingtip of the RV. The cost was also in line with what I though was an acceptable price for this technology and the quality of the product. MSRP, the Squadrons run $299.95. However, on Amazon they are $260.

The version I bought was the Baja Designed Squadron in the Spotlight format. The specs on these are quite impressive. Here is the list from their website:

Our Squadron 3" x 3" light is the next generation of LED lighting! This light packs 4,300 Lumens that will truly annihilate the night.

The Squadron exceeds HID output yet weighs only 12oz.

Uses active Thermal Management, Single Layer Solid Core Copper Circuit Board and aircraft grade aluminum housing that maintains LED temperature within the defined operating limits.
If you?re looking for the ultimate in LED lighting technology the Baja Designs Squadron is your answer!

Features:

Available in four configurations. Combo, Spot, Wide-Cornering, and Flood/Work using precision in house designed optics
Weight: 12oz
IP69K (Waterproof, Submersible to 9ft)
IK10 Compliant (Mechanical Impact Testing)
Vibration Rating: 7.7Grms
Operating Temperature: -40 Celsius to 80 Celsius
Hard coated polycarbonate lens
Lifetime Warranty


Specifications:

Total Lumens: 4300
Stainless steel fasteners and mounts.
Front Lens: Hard coated Polycarbonate
Power Consumption: 42 watts
Uses four T6 Bin Cree XM-L2 LEDs at 5000K
49,930 hour LED life expectancy
Reverse battery & Transient Voltage Suppressor (TVS) protection

Exceeds MIL-STD810G requirements

Low Temperature Test
High Temperature Test
Temperature & Humidity Test
Thermal Shock Cycling Test
Dust Test
Random Vibration Test
Mechanical Shock Test
Low Pressure Test
Drip Box Water Test

On a moonless night, I set up an experiment at the end of my street comparing the three lights I had - my Duckworks 50W HID, DX Cree XM-L T6 and the Baja Designs Squadron. All of these pictures were taken from a digital SLR camera on a tripod and the manual focus settings were the same. I wanted to get an accurate representation on the differences between the lights. As you can see, the Baja Designs light blows the others away!
DSCN2922.JPG


Here is an Isolux Plot I found on the Baja design website. I was torn as to which version of the light to get. Since there wasn't much of a difference between the driving and spot light, I went for the spotlight. It would be really nice to do a side-by-side comparison of all four varieties of the Squadron (Combo, Spot, Wide-Cornering, and Flood/Work).
DSCN2923.JPG


Here are a few pictures of the Squadron. From the front this thing looks mean!!!
DSCN2924.JPG


It is much smaller than I thought it would be.
DSCN2925.JPG


The cooling fins are quite beefy. I believe the housing for the lights is made out of aluminum. They are also lighter than I thought they would be.
DSCN2926.JPG


I decided to compare the weight of the Baja Design Squadron to the Duckworks HID. The Duckworks HID come in at 0.76 lbs.
DSCN2927.JPG


And the Baja Design Squadron is slightly lighter at 0.72 lbs.
DSCN2928.JPG


The next project was trying to figure out how to mount these guys to my wingtips.
DSCN2929.JPG


I took off the previous wingtip light mounts.
DSCN2930.JPG


Next I fabricated a new mounting plate out of 0.063" sheet. The old mounting plate was made out of 0.032" and it was a little on the flimsy side.
DSCN2931.JPG
 
I did keep the side portion of the old mounting plate where the Nav light is mounted. I figured why do more work than I have to re-fabricating everything.
DSCN2932.JPG


I wanted to mount the new LED lights as far outboard as possible so they could get as much light closest towards the center line of the RV. It would be awesome if these lights could be used for both taxiing and landing.
DSCN2933.JPG


I also needed a mounting plate for the light to mount to. The light comes with a mount designed to be mounted to handlebars with a single bolt at the bottom. That mount wouldn't of worked for me. I planned to use the 4 screw holes used to hold the front trim on. I made an appropriate mounting plate (pictured on the lower left).
DSCN2934.JPG


I didn't think the front trim was necessary. I would replace it with my mounting plate made out of 0.063".
DSCN2935.JPG


Here is a picture of how the LED light mounting plate is attached to the wingtip plate. This setup is extremely adjustable and very very study. I cannot more the plate at all.
P1020814.JPG


These are the springs I used for the inboard adjustment points. I purchased them from Ace Hardware.
DSCN2936.JPG


And finally the light mounted.
DSCN2937.JPG


The light uses metric screws. I bought M4x10's which ended up working great.
DSCN2938.JPG


And the final product. I used only a single light for a few weeks to test it out. I figured why should I spend twice as much as I needed to for a pair of them if they may not work out. I flew for about 10 hours with this, and it was on all of the time. There was ZERO radio interference, Zero GPS performance interference and ZERO NAV antenna interference. These lights seem to be very well engineered.
DSCN2939.JPG


After my test of the right wing went so well, I purchased another set and installed it into the left wing. I have to say this side went MUCH faster. It's always easier to build something the second time.
DSCN2940.JPG
 
Doh! When I took apart the right side, I notices some hazing in the plexiglass lens. This is from where I applied loctite like an idiot. I completely forgot that Loctite causes hazing on plexiglass. Luckly, all of this is hidden from view when the mounting bracket is attached.
DSCN2941.JPG


I needed to finish up dressing the wiring in the left wing. Once I completed that task, it was time to aim the lights. This picture shows a couple of things. Most apparently, take a look at how bright these suckers are! Secondly, you can see the general beam they show and also how I have them aimed. This was as low to the ground as I could get them. The bracket I made is hitting the outboard edge of the wingtip, so this was the best I could get. Since the tail of the airplane is up when it is flying/landing, I wanted the light to be concentrated a little on the high side. Also, isn't it amazing how well a GoPro camera works at night???
DSCN2944.JPG


Even though the lights are aimed high, there is a decent amount of light that is available for taxiing. I would like there to be a little more, but this isn't bad at all considering they are recessed wingtip lights.
DSCN2945.JPG


One takeoff, once the tail comes up the lights nicely illuminate the runway.
DSCN2946.JPG


Approaching the threshold of the runway, this is where the lights start illuminating the runway. I would say this is 500-1000' from the runway.
DSCN2947.JPG


At about 5-10' off the runway the lights do a nice job of lighting up the runway.
DSCN2948.JPG


And on touchdown things just keep on getting better. I am very happy with these lights. The only thing I wish was better was the light during taxiing. It's not terrible, but it's not great either. For example, I had a hard time seeing the taxiway lines and the runway turnoffs. However, I have to ask myself how often will I really fly at night? It felt great to get some night flying in, even if it was just in the pattern. It's definitely a surreal experience.
DSCN2949.JPG



I have no affiliation with Baja Designs and I purchased all of the lights at full price. I have contacted Baja Designs once I completed my test to let them know the results.
 
Great job

Wow, what an excellent writeup, thanks for taking the time to do all of this. We have 55watt HIDs in the wing in DW mounts, Looks like these would do an even better job. Are you getting any radio noise???
 
Nice

I have not put landing and taxi lights on yet. Kept waiting for some cool led ones to mount in cowl down low. Figured over a few the technology would be there. Seems its slow but coming. Post some updates and progress as you log some hours. Will be watching. Thanks for the info.
 
Are you getting any radio noise???

No radio noise whatsoever! I even switched them on and off to simulate a wig-wag (which I intend to install in the future) to no ill affects. Also, there is no interference with the GPS reception.
 
Those look great but the price is still out of line.

I have the 100W Halogen's (not HID's) in my Duckworth leading edges and am very pleased with them. Something like $3.95 from Pep-Boys when they burn out.

One of these days I will upgrade to LED's but not until the price comes down.

PS. The other thing I did was to aim the left one down so it lights up the taxiway with the tail down and the right one is parallel to the wing. That way I can taxi out with the left one on and the right off. Once I take the runway, they both come on. It works great and on final the combination will illuminate the runway at 500' AGL.

I wish we lived close by so we could compare them side-by-side.
 
LED Lights

Mike, Good to hear from you, great write-up.
I have the 75W shooting out through the Creativ LED nav lights and have often thought about cutting in the DW housing. However, since I am painted, that idea never gets traction. I really like that you found a way to get them in the wiingtips. Well done !!
 
http://dx.com/p/xm-l-t6-3-led-5-mod...op-in-led-module-w-temperature-control-114013

With four of these I can see our grass runway on short final, about 1 mile. They work quite well and I have had zero problems other than some RFI initially.

One snap on ferrite on each side (left and right each feeding a pair) and about 10 turns of wire wrapped thru took care of the noise.

Over the weekend I had them on for three 1.5 hour formation flights for the 49 ship flyover.
 
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"http://dx.com/p/xm-l-t6-3-led-5-mode...control-114013

With four of these I can see our grass runway on short final, about 1 mile. They work quite well and I have had zero problems other than some RFI initially."

Bob, Thank's for the link, these just what I've been looking for. Placed an order this morning.

Roger Bloomfield
RV9-A Flying
Rv8 Painted, Fly by Christmas?! (2013???????)
 
http://dx.com/p/xm-l-t6-3-led-5-mod...op-in-led-module-w-temperature-control-114013

With four of these I can see our grass runway on short final, about 1 mile. They work quite well and I have had zero problems other than some RFI initially.

One snap on ferrite on each side (left and right each feeding a pair) and about 10 turns of wire wrapped thru took care of the noise.

Over the weekend I had them on for three 1.5 hour formation flights for the 49 ship flyover.

What have you used for to mount these? Home made or do they sell any thing to be mounted on? A search on their web site did not show any thing.
 
I used an .040" plate to replace the Duckworks lens holder. I CNC machined the plate and simply use pop rivets around the perimeter of the lights to hold them in place on the plate. On the bulbs themselves I desoldered the spring and soldered (with plenty of flux) the power wires in place.
 
Bob,

I noticed the lights you used have 5 modes. Do you utilize any of the modes like the "strobe" to get a wig wag effect?

Gregg
 
I noticed the lights you used have 5 modes. Do you utilize any of the modes like the "strobe" to get a wig wag effect?
I'd like to know this as well. It didn't look like there was a "control" lead on the light, so i'm curious how you control the other modes...
 
The link I mentioned are the lights I have on my Rocket. The ones one 55BC are these, and they are single mode: http://dx.com/p/t6-3-led-lamp-cap-9-22v-100483

They appear to be the same, but one is multi-mode and the other one isn't.

So no I don't know how they would work as wigwags since I am not yet flying my rocket. But they work pretty dang good for landing lights.
 
Mike ,
Thanks for making this post. I have the Vans projector bulbs also in my tips and want to install the lights you have.

Thanks for all the pictures.
Jack
 
Interesting thread, the individual Cree LEDs (in the Squadron light) are around $10 from Mouser - so the housing is clearly expensive to produce... (Datasheet here)
They have a large viewing angle, so I'm guessing would need a reflector to produce a focussed beam. The typical forward voltage is 2.85 to 3.3 v - but they would work from a constant current source - so some kind of control electronics black magic would be necessary. So $200+ for electronics, reflectors and a housing - anyone have any suggestions?

Or how about these from Rigid Industries - $200 for a pair - heavy, but the housing looks much larger than we would need so could be cut down?

20111_dually_flood-1_med.jpg


Peter
 
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Has anyone considered just using one of the DX flashlights? A soldering iron & a couple of Adel clamps & it should be good to go. :)

Charlie
 
Just as a data point, I have had these lights installed for about 2.5 months and have about 20 flight hours on them. They are still performing flawlessly. I added a wig-wag controller a little over a month ago. I get comments all the time about how I stand out in the sky, especially in the pattern. There isn't any noticeable interference in any of my antennas (NAV/COM/GPS) when these run in either always-on mode or wig-wag mode.

About a year ago I purchased some of the Cree XML-T6 LED's off of DealExtreme (DX). I was quite impressed with the brightness of them, however one cooked itself on my bench. I built a head-sink for the other one I purchased but I could never build one substantial enough that would control the temperature to a reasonable level. That's when I gave up on the DX LED's and decided to go with a packaged LED solution. Sure, the Baja Design LED's are more expensive than the DX's, but they are plenty bright and are backed up by a great company with a lifetime warranty. Also, from my comparison, the Baja Designs output BLOW the socks off of the DX's!!
 
In 55BC I have four of the DX lights, and have had no thermal issues. I'm sure there are variations of drivers used since these things are made in China. I guess I may have lucked out. They're so crazy bright on final into our grass strip I can flip them on and start seeing the runway about 1/4 mile out in the pitch black. Absolutely love the LED landing lights. Two would be good enough but having four is awesome.
 
LED Lights

This is my solution to the heat issue. I added a heavier copper fitting from Home Depot. Then thermal glued a heat sink from a remote controlled motor to the copper fitting. I have about +50 hours of continuous wigwag on them, no problems. They weigh about half a pound, close to the GE's they replaced. Thanks to Rocket Bob and others, I didn't design this light, only refined it a bit.

Hope it helps,
Tony

12172012001_zpsfe21b0bb.jpg


12172012007_zpsf01e3ee2.jpg

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Rigid 2x2's

I'm using the Rigid 2x2's using the spot focus beams. About a 2oz penalty per unit vs the halogen units I was planning. Brackets got a smidge lighter. I sectioned off the outside fin on both sides of the castings of the Rigid units and riveted to the remaining fins.

I did a four hour blink test, and the power supply didn't get remotely hot at 14.5 volts. Using the lab equipment at work, I found the power supply noise to be next to nothing (deep cycle bat at the end of 50' of 16ga). Pretty happy overall.

I'll PIREP in the spring when the **** thing finally flies.

Rick
 
found this LED flashlight on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Trustfire-5-m...+5-modes+3800lm+Led+Flashlight+Electric+Torch

from the photos it looks like it has the same LED module in the head as some of the other units talked about. I saw several other flashlights that all look like they have the same part but different bodies. I know that a lot of products that come out of China will use a common part that is made by one factory. It also looks like they made this light with a nice heatsink as part of the housing that holds the LED assembly.

At $16 I ordered one to play with. At the very least I will have a cool flashlight.
FYI: if you are thinking of buying one, be aware that price does not include the batteries. It needs 3 Li-ion 18650 batteries.

I'll post more when I get the light.
 
found this LED flashlight on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Trustfire-5-m...+5-modes+3800lm+Led+Flashlight+Electric+Torch

from the photos it looks like it has the same LED module in the head as some of the other units talked about. I saw several other flashlights that all look like they have the same part but different bodies. I know that a lot of products that come out of China will use a common part that is made by one factory. It also looks like they made this light with a nice heatsink as part of the housing that holds the LED assembly.

At $16 I ordered one to play with. At the very least I will have a cool flashlight.
FYI: if you are thinking of buying one, be aware that price does not include the batteries. It needs 3 Li-ion 18650 batteries.

I'll post more when I get the light.
Nice, only it says the voltage is 3.7v and I wonder how this will work with the 12V system in our plane?
 
Nice, only it says the voltage is 3.7v and I wonder how this will work with the 12V system in our plane?

Power Source:
- 2 x 18650 3.7V Rechargeable Batteries(As a 230mm long flashlight).
- 3 x 18650 3.7V Rechargeable Batteries(AS a ultra-long 293mm flashlight).


Since it seems to run on two voltages, there must be current regulators involved.

Three batteries are 11.1 volts, so perhaps 14 volts input shouldn't blow anything up.
 
Beam width

The specs for most of these flashlight devices seem to be written in Chinese -

"Output bright can achieve to to be 3800 lumen"

But I have seen no mention of beam width.

The "standard" certified incandescent aircraft landing lights are about 10 degrees beam spread.

How do the flashlight ones compare?
 
I have been looking for a replacement for my after-market HID lights and assemblies I installed in my -10 with the Ducksworth leading edge kits. I found that Baja Designs is now selling a flush mount style that will work better for the Ducksworth mount. So I got a deal with a vendor for 2 ($574 including shipping) and will redo my mounts to set these up and will share the results.
 
just wondering, did the ferrite filter completely eliminate the RFI or did it jsut reduce it?

They reduced the RFI to the point where it is negligible. 55BC has Aeroflash strobes with the power supplies out in the wingtips and they now put out more RFI than the LED landing lights do.

I used these:

http://www.mpja.com/025in-ID-Ferrite-Clamshell-EMI-Filter/productinfo/18466 FL

10 loops of 18ga wire fit with ease. More is better.

Radio is an Icom A200, if I tune to a distant receivable AWOS the lights increase the background noise. Before the ferrites if the AWOS was close it would be completely drowned out by the noise.
 
rocketbob
since this module is designed to run with 3 - 3.7v batteries or 11.1 volts

did you hook it directly to your bus or did you use a regulator to drop the voltage?

UPS says my light will come on Monday
I'll post pics when I get it.

another option if you are interested in HID lights
I found this site.
Thinking about buying them for my car to test them.

http://www.xenonlightshid.com/
 
The dx.com lights are good for 22V. If the flashlight has the same dropin light in them, then you shouldn't have any problems.
 
You just take a piece of wire, loop it around your extended fingers 10 times, then clip the ferrite core over one side of the loop, and zip tie the opposite side. I then taped the ferrite as an added measure to prevent it from un-snapping and secured it in the wing. This loop is installed just before the wires to the lights, and powered both lights off of the loop.
 
Awesome find, half the price. They appear to be the same as the ones I get from dx.com.

Good and inexpensive, my favorite combination.

If you can get the whole machined aluminum flashlight for 16 bucks, it stands to reason the LED assembly alone should be available somewhere for about $5 bucks at most...

Anyway, this has the multi mode function which I'm guessing is accessed through the on/off switch. I'd hate to have to cycle my landing light switch on/off 5 times to get the function I want. Any thoughts on how to disable/directly control that?
 
Hey Mike

Great article. I've been searching for something to replace my current leading edge landing lights for some time and the Squadron units seem to be the way to go.

I fly a 7A and it appears the lights will also work well during taxi.

Again congrats for the fine article.

Ron B
RV7A 2007
Hatz Classic biplane 2005 Lindy award
Mooney M20E for 31 years - sold
Stinson 108-2 sold
Stinson 108-1 sold
 
If you can get the whole machined aluminum flashlight for 16 bucks, it stands to reason the LED assembly alone should be available somewhere for about $5 bucks at most...

Anyway, this has the multi mode function which I'm guessing is accessed through the on/off switch. I'd hate to have to cycle my landing light switch on/off 5 times to get the function I want. Any thoughts on how to disable/directly control that?


You shouldn't have to do anything if you just want them to be on the "high" mode all the time. The way this one is suppose to work, if you don't turn it off and on within 1 sec, it will just turn on in the last mode it was on.

This LED flashlight stuff could get me distracted from airplane building.
I found a forum where these guys mod these lights to get better performance.
here is a thread where they talk about different mods
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/15269

this is a mod of a Maglite
http://hacknmod.com/hack/how-to-1000-lumen-maglite-mod/

interesting stuff
 
That is an interesting one,, 12 LED emitters.
But be aware, all the claims of total lumen output from these Chinese lights are total BS. First of all the Cree XM-L emitter can't put out that many lumens.
And I doubt they actually test any of these lights.

There is an international standard for measuring flashlights. You can read it here on the Mag-lite site. Unfortunately 99% of what you find on ebay will not have been tested, just making crazy claims.
http://www.maglite.com/flashlight_performance.asp

For our use, Beam Distance and Light Output are the spec we are interested it.

Since there is no way to to compare these lights by listed specs, since they are all make different claims. I think the easier way is to compare a perspective light to the old standby landing light. And then to some of the other lights people are using.

We could do a collective experiment to test a bunch of options
Since I don't own any of the other lights people are using, I thought of this method if people are interested.

1- we pick a set distance to measure the light at (maybe 50ft and 100ft)
2 - define a standard target that anyone can make cheaply (like a standard piece of white cardboard 2ft x 2ft.
3 - a cheap light meter

the idea would be that anyone could take a light they own or that is installed in a friend's airplane and just go test it it with the same method everyone else is using . then we compare the results and you can see what bang you get for your bucks.

I got the flashlight late yesterday, didn't have time to play with it.
But just looking at it, I can say it is very well constructed. All milled aluminum, the LED head is a very large heatsink. I will play with it tonight and post pics.
 
After doing a bunch of reading I have to agree that the performance claims of many of these units appears to be unsubstantiated or outright bogus. That's unfortunate too, because there are a LOT of selections to wade through.

It does appear that these lights can be "overdriven" (for lack of a better word) to improve output at the expense of significantly reduced battery life - which of course is not much of an issue for us. Anyone care to comment on "hacking" these lights for more output?

I think a standard form of testing would be great among the VAF collective. Personal testimony concerning installed solutions is valuable, but that's a lot of work and still a limited pool of experience. It would be nice if we could set up a bunch of bench tests to find an affordable, acceptable alternative to the breathtakingly expensive "aircraft" parts.
 
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I received my new duckworks leading edge LED lights a few days ago that he came out with about a month ago. They look nice and I'm heading out tonight to shine them and see how they look after dark. I may post some pictures if pictures turn out okay and do it justice.
 
Ok, here's the pictures from tonight of the Duckworks leading edge LED light.
I'm putting one in each wing. It's going to be plenty of light when it's all said and done.

GOPR0022.JPG


GOPR0025.JPG


GOPR0026.JPG
 
I also replaced my original Duckworks halogen with one of the new LED replacement units. I am very pleased with the added light and coverage of the beam.
 
3 Cree Lamp

Not sure about the amount of lumens (claim 2000 lumens), but here's a picture of the triple Cree lights at night. There is one triple Cree on each wing tip.

Tony

11132013015_zpseec4f193.jpg


11132013010_zpse22a8bc3.jpg
 
Well got the Trust Fire 3 LED flashlight.
This thing is very nice. machined from solid aluminum. The finish is very good.
The LED housing in made from a single piece of machined aluminum.
It contains the 3 Cree XM-L T6 emitters and the driver PCB. It weighs 3.6 oz by itself, and when threaded into the housing, the total housing weighs in at 7.85oz. Plus the housing has fins machined in. This should make it an excellent heatsink for the emitters.

For those of you that don't know much about these high power LEDs, here are a few points to remember.

LEDs are a current driven device. In simple terms that means they are designed to operate at a specific current. You can drive them with more then the design current to get more output, but the problem you will have is the heat that is generated will destroy them if not properly dealt with. So with all of these high power LED lights, the heatsink design is probably the most important thing if you want them to last.
There are numerous off the shelf driver boards that go for a few bucks each. and the LED emitters are also cheap. So you could buy a bunch of emitters and driver boards really cheap and hook them up and build yourself a really bright landing light. only problem, without a good heatsink design it will burn it self up in short order.
That is why I like this light so much. The heatsink is already done. It is a nice compact design the holds the emmiters and the driver board and that package is screwed into a housing that effectively doubles the size of the heatsink.

Plus, the main heatsink also is the reflector for the emitters. It really is a nice piece of machining and design all for $16!!
The reflector design is important for the Beam Distance ability of the light.

So how does it work? Well I only had the chance to take it out in the driveway and see what it does. It is very impressive. I live in an area with no street lights and I could easily light up the road approx 150ft away.

Next I plan to do some testing on it. See how much current it draws. I bought a cheap LUX meter on ebay. I plan to use that to compare it to some other landing lights my friends have and some of the airplanes at work that have LED lights. I also want to measure how hot it gets over time.

Right now it looks like this would make an excellent landing light with one installed in each wing tip or leading edge.

here is a link to some photos
https://plus.google.com/photos/104764415589933910870/albums/5966058376473415697
 
I am very interested to see how bright they are and if they will be adequate for landing light or not as well how they will work with the 12+v systems we have in our plane. I have seen the same brand flash light with more LED (as many as 15) that claims to put out about 16000 LM. Even if it puts out half as much light, still will be very impressive.
 
There's an App for that

I bought a cheap LUX meter on ebay.

There are a number of free light meter apps for iOS and probably Android also. One that I downloaded more or less at random, called Galactica, simply gives a lux reading for whatever is going into the camera lens at that moment.

If we could settle on one app (each) for iOS and Android, then most of us would already have the measuring equipment in our pockets.

Calibration , consistency, repeatibility may be issues but others more expert than me can advise on that.

Taking readings at set distances off-centre would give an indication of beam width at the set distances.
 
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