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Deburring...ad nauseum

T

Thunderpig

Member
In the process for prepping my HS for priming and the deburring is endless, as many of you know. Anyone have any working experience with the E-Z Burr line of products?
 
I do have a set and have used them but they are not my first tool to grab when it comes to deburing. They especially can come very handy when you don't have easy or no access to the other side a hole and works better on thicker material as oppose to the thin skins that is on the rudder or elevator.
 
Deburring

That's why I have a recliner and a frig full of beer in garage. 3m deburring wheels work great for edges. As for the holes, grab a beer and go at it.
 
My experience..

..is that you'll end up with lots of deburring tools in your toolbox, before it's over. Personally, I prefer to use my scotchbrite wheel whenever possible for all edges. If the skin is too big for that, I have 1" diameter wheels I use to debur, chucked into a drill motor. For holes, I either use my hand debur tool, with a countersink bit screwed into it (although it's slow, it's precise), or I use a small 1/4" diameter countersink bit that chucks into my battery operated drill (it's faster, but be you must be careful not to over do it). In the end, the important think is that your are deburring things. I have seen a project where nothing was deburred, and it was hard to look at. Nothing was seated well (i.e. spar caps, skin overlaps, etc) and if you reached into the project at all, you risked cutting yourself on a lightening hole or other sharp edges.
 
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Good thoughts above, the only comment I'd add is that you'll feel a lot better about all that deburring on the HS once you get started on the wings. :D
 
A lot of us would be shocked at the lack of deburring in some production aircraft facilities. Nothing more than knock the big chip off of the back side of the hole, if that.

Keep your standards as high as what makes you happy.
 
Deburring holes can be tedious, but goes fairly quickly. What drives me crazy is deburring all the tight spaces between flanges on ribs and bulkheads.
 
I use them and love them. Doesnt work everywhere and i've ruined quite a few of them using my Sioux drill. I now use them with my Dewalt cordless.

If i'd ever do this again, i would definitely use it from the start.
 
ppilotmike said:
..is that you'll end up with lots of deburring tools in your toolbox, before it's over. Personally, I prefer to use my scotchbrite wheel whenever possible for all edges. If the skin is too big for that, I have 1" diameter wheels I use to debur, chucked into a drill motor. For holes, I either use my hand debur tool, with a countersink bit screwed into it (although it's slow, it's precise), or I use a small 1/4" diameter countersink bit that chucks into my battery operated drill (it's faster, but be you must be careful not to over do it). In the end, the important think is that your are deburring things. I have seen a project where nothing was deburred, and it was hard to look at. Nothing was seated well (i.e. spar caps, skin overlaps, etc) and if you reached into the project at all, you risked cutting yourself on a lightening hole or other sharp edges.
Click to expand...

I'm speaking primarily about the skin holes...just as a measure of saving time...and my deteriorating right rotator cuff! I do so love those scotchbrite wheels...the skin edges are proving to be a bit of a pain, I don't like the excess vibration, so I use the 1" drill wheels, though those open blade deburring tools look like they would help a great deal. Good news is, all my HS parts are deburred and primed...dimpling and riveting planned for tomorrow, provided I don't get called in to fly at work.
 
I have had a really good experience with E-Z Burr products thus far. There is a hex screw on the shaft that you can use to calibrate the position of the deburring cutter head that acts to either give it a stiffer or looser feel when deburring. I simply modify it a bit when I'm working on the skins and it works extraordinarily well. I use it in my motor drill on a lower speed setting, make one pass in and then out and I get consistent results on every hole. After I first got it, I checked every hole I deburred for about the first hundred or so holes, but after I realized I was getting amazingly consistent results, now I do the old run your hand over the surface check (no blood drawn yet - at least for this reason). They can be a bit spendy, but hey, what isn't. For what it's worth, I have enjoyed having them and will continue to use them.
 
I use the deburring bit from Cleveland Tool chucked in a small electric screwdriver. It works great, but like other deburring bits, it is a countersink so you need to take it easy with light to no pressure and ONLY 1 turn. In fact on the light skins like .016 rudder skins I forego a duburring bit and use a leather glove and scotchbrite pad. I also use a reamer instead of a drill bit to match drill on the really light skins.
 
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iwannarv said:
I use the deburring bit from Cleveland Tool chucked in a small electric screwdriver. It works great, but like other deburring bits, it is a countersink so you need to take it easy with light to no pressure and ONLY 1 turn. In fact on the light skins like .016 rudder skins I forego a duburring bit and use a leather glove and scotchbrite pad. I also use a reamer instead of a drill bit to match drill on the really light skins.
Click to expand...

That's the bit I was referring to in my previous post. It's true, you have to be careful not to over-deburr. However, the other thing I love about this bit is that it can be used as a free-hand countersink, using the drill and an extension, to countersink something that is in a hard to reach place. There are a few of these on the airplane (RV-10).
 
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