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  #1  
Old 01-31-2016, 04:11 PM
RFazio RFazio is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 385
Default Adding Electric Flaps to an RV-4

We got the electric flap conversion kit for my buddies RV-4. We got the more expensive one with the entire new weldment. We are going through the instructions and making up the parts and all seems well. One minor problem that I was going to call Vans on is the part A-406. I figured I would post here also. This is the steel channel that gets bolted into the plane and holds the stationary end of the actuator. They say to make this part up a certain way but it comes all made and painted. But the big end that holds the nub end of the actuator has too big a radius on it. They show it at 1/2" and it is, but the nub end of the actuator sticks out only 3/8". I think I have to grind the radius down so it fits on the actuator but figured I would ask here first. I would hate to screw it up. Thanks for any help.

Richard
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  #2  
Old 02-02-2016, 04:22 PM
Michael Henning Michael Henning is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 483
Default

With a last name of Fazio, you have to be from Long Island. I grew up in Port Jefferson. That aside, I have electric flaps and love them. Ez install. My kit was an older kit though.
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  #3  
Old 02-03-2016, 06:13 AM
chris mitchell chris mitchell is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: near Harrogate, England
Posts: 370
Default

Hi - I'm installing in a new build and just did the flap installation. A bit gash, not as tidy as the RV-8 system. Definitely comes across as an afterthought.

I can't find my instructions just now, but I'm sure they specified grinding off the end so that it fits the actuator. Anyway, that's what I've done, I don't see any clever alternative.

Looks like an aileron hinge doing extra duty!

Hope that helps.

Chris
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  #4  
Old 02-03-2016, 07:34 AM
WAM120RV WAM120RV is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Coventry. England
Posts: 599
Default Positioning system

Hi

It's a long time since I did mine and there are some photos way back in my blog. I am pretty sure there was some grinding. I also fitted the show plane positioning system. It fiddly to set up but works really well.

I had it on my too!
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Steve Arnold
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In completion stage of Loehle P5151
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  #5  
Old 02-03-2016, 07:01 PM
RFazio RFazio is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 385
Default Thanks for the replys guys

Mike, yes there are a lot of Fazio's on Long Island. I grew up in Valley Stream, now I'm in Massapequa Park. Thanks for the replys guys. I called vans and got no response from them. They were going to get back to me but it's been two days?
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  #6  
Old 02-04-2016, 10:40 AM
chris mitchell chris mitchell is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: near Harrogate, England
Posts: 370
Default

Found the instructions in the proverbial safe place - grind off the overlong bit of the F-406 and also you may need to file the end of the actuator to fit into the jaws.

Hope that helps.

Chris
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Chris Mitchell

Repeat offender;
RV-8, QB, built, flown 150 hours, sold;
RV-4 - attempted repair, rebuild and remediation - abandoned and junked ;
RV-4 fuselage and wing kits - both at QB stage;
2015-2018 dues paid!
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  #7  
Old 02-04-2016, 05:03 PM
smokyray's Avatar
smokyray smokyray is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: TX32
Posts: 1,735
Default Why mess with success...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RFazio View Post
We got the electric flap conversion kit for my buddies RV-4. We got the more expensive one with the entire new weldment. We are going through the instructions and making up the parts and all seems well. One minor problem that I was going to call Vans on is the part A-406. I figured I would post here also. This is the steel channel that gets bolted into the plane and holds the stationary end of the actuator. They say to make this part up a certain way but it comes all made and painted. But the big end that holds the nub end of the actuator has too big a radius on it. They show it at 1/2" and it is, but the nub end of the actuator sticks out only 3/8". I think I have to grind the radius down so it fits on the actuator but figured I would ask here first. I would hate to screw it up. Thanks for any help.

Richard
Richard,
Simple question: why?
After 1500 hours in my RV4 (manual flaps) and another 1000 in my HR2 (electric) Manual flaps win hands down. The simplicity, less cost, fail safe, non electricity required, ease of stowage on STOL landings, quick up and down during slow speed maneuvering, fine tuning STOL takeoffs, etc. sold me over 10 years. I wish my HR2 had them...

I know your mind's made up but...
Just saying...
V/R
Smokey
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  #8  
Old 02-04-2016, 05:43 PM
RFazio RFazio is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 385
Default It's not me.

I kind of agree, but my buddy Steve has his heart set on electric ones, soo.
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  #9  
Old 03-01-2016, 07:31 PM
777Dave's Avatar
777Dave 777Dave is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Picton, Ont., Ft. Myers, Fl
Posts: 275
Default Flaps

Switched to electric 3 years ago. Very straight forward.
2 reasons,
Flap lever conflicted with my passengers left foot.
Second, pulling full flap was getting harder on my shoulder.
No regrets.
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  #10  
Old 03-02-2016, 09:41 AM
RV Jerry RV Jerry is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 170
Default

Folks with shoulder problems manual flaps can be challenging
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