What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Tailcone curve riveting

mciaglia

Well Known Member
Before I screw up my whole tailcone. Does anyone have some good advise on riveting the curved portion of the skins to the flanges?
 
Not sure of the specific area you're referring to but if the concern is about smileys from a flush set, I can say that my Avery swivel flush set has made that a non-issue, since the rubber cub around the set prevents the edges from hitting the skin. (I had to shave the rubber cup down on a belt sander so that the set wouldn't be too recessed in the cup.)
 
I'm referring to the lower portion of the side skins as they wrap underneath to meet with the bottom
 
I too back riveted the majority of my tailcone.

I pretty much ended up shooting those rivets though, as I found it was hard (solo) to
keep the tailcone assembly from rocking back and forth with the curved section sitting on the backing plate on my bench. I got a few to go in fine, but was too inconsistent, at least for me.
 
Just hold the gun perpendicular to the direction you're driving the rivet.

This. I don't recall setting those rivets to be particularly difficult (admittedly it's been awhile). The key, even with a swivel flush set, is to get the gun in a good, comfortable position relative to the surface so that it doesn't walk when you press the trigger.

Oh and I didn't back rivet squat beyond the control surfaces where back riveting was specifically called out in the plans and my riveting turned out just fine. IOW back riveting is "a" way but not "the" way.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I started back riveting then switched to driving/bucking and they turned out great. I felt like I was spending more time trying to balance the tailcone to make sure it was on the back rivet plate. I can't tell the difference between the several back rivets and the bucked ones
 
no luck

I've never had luck back riveting any surface that has a flange or is curved. The cupped flush rivet set will do a good job. Just make sure to keep it perpendicular.

I find one thing that really helps is weighing the structure down. Its hard to get a good push on the rivet gun since the tail cone is so light. I use pillows and blankets to protect the skins and clear the bulkheads then lay a case of laminate flooring across them. Weighs about 30 lbs and really makes riveting the structure easier.
 
I am curious to know what people's experience was with dimpling the curved sections. Seems like the dimple die would try to straighten out the curve or at least distort it badly. Would a small diameter dimple die work better for this since it has less surface area contact?
 
I am curious to know what people's experience was with dimpling the curved sections. Seems like the dimple die would try to straighten out the curve or at least distort it badly. Would a small diameter dimple die work better for this since it has less surface area contact?

It's not an issue.
 
Thanks to everyone's advice. Success!!! It really wasn't as big a deal as I anticipated. The tailcone is now done...for now. Fuselage is coming next week. QB wings will be here in October

img_8324.jpg
 
Hi Mark,

Congrats on completing your tail cone! I was checking out your website and see your parts look fantastic, particularly the hinge brackets on your vertical stabilizer. I can't seem to find any civilized way to set the inner rivet on my rudder hinge brackets. I've tried my pneumatic squeezer but the rivet is so close to the bracket that the yoke rubs on it and causes the squeezer to twist sideways. So then I got out a bucking bar which "kind of" worked but I had to hold it so close to the bracket that it beat the living heck out it. I had to drill the rivet out twice now, and for the life of me I can't figure out how other guys seem to do these hinge brackets so cleanly. May I ask how you were able to get yours looking so nice?

Thanks!
 
Casey,
Thanks for the compliments. I used the pneumatic squeezer for all the rivets on the vertical stab spar and hinge brackets. If I recall I used the set in the yoke portion and the flat shop side on the moving portion of the squeezer.
 
Back
Top