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  #21  
Old 03-21-2017, 06:36 PM
CubedRoot's Avatar
CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfleming View Post
Thanks, It worked great!

Here's a video of my repair: https://youtu.be/odRe9k79eAE
Looks great! I guess I'll be adding a spoon to my toolbox for future use..hah.
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  #22  
Old 03-21-2017, 08:57 PM
Neal Trombley Neal Trombley is online now
 
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Originally Posted by CubedRoot View Post
Looks great! I guess I'll be adding a spoon to my toolbox for future use..hah.
Wow
That was awesome
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  #23  
Old 03-21-2017, 09:37 PM
salto salto is offline
 
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Location: Wee Waa Australia
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I ended up throwing these edge rolling toys in the bin.
Get a two by one inch by six inches long piece of timber. Get your hand woodsaw and cut a slot to the depth you need on one end and just work your way along the edge. Far more control, no stretch and fast.
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  #24  
Old 03-22-2017, 04:22 AM
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Steve -7 Steve -7 is offline
 
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Location: Haslett, MI
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Default Burnishing tool and hammers

A burnishing tool gives you more control and the ability to apply more pressure than a table/tea spoon. They're designed for blending out surface defects in aluminum and are highly polished. All aircraft hand tool suppliers sell them.

I would also recommend before tapping any aluminum with a hammer that you polish the head of the hammer to remove any surface imperfections that will be transferred the the material being struck.
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Last edited by Steve -7 : 03-22-2017 at 06:49 AM. Reason: Sp
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  #25  
Old 03-22-2017, 05:14 AM
Neal Trombley Neal Trombley is online now
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: North Fort Myers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CubedRoot View Post
Neal,
I would highly recommend that you get a set of these edge breakers / rollers.

I personally use this one: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Edge-F...ductinfo/EF60/

But I have seen others use and like this one as well: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/EDGE-R...ductinfo/1042/

Both of those accomplish the same thing: The put a very small bend in the very edge of skins that will be overlapping each other. This way, when you rivet the two skins together, the pressure from the riveting doesn't cause the skins to "bow" or lift away from each other.

The EAA has a neat video on this: http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=18987862001
Thank you sir..
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  #26  
Old 03-22-2017, 10:18 AM
sblack sblack is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich View Post
Gently tap this out flat with a small ball peen hammer on an anvil.

Carl
If you do that you will stretch the metal. Do NOT hammer this between steel and steel. if you squish aluminum between 2 things that are harder then something will have to give, and it will be the aluminum. So you need to hammer on wood, or hammer with a nylon hammer. You have to make sure your skin is not the softest thing in the equation.

I have done some English wheel work in aluminum and have had a bit of training - enough to be dangerous. When panel beaters are hammering out dents, then will hammer "off-dolly" to avoid stretching - that means they put the dolly on a low spot and they hammer (or slap with a slapper) on an adjacent high spot. This forces the metal together, shrinking it. The sound is a dull thud. If they hammer "on-dolly", they are trying to bring up a low spot i.e. stretch. To figure out of you are off or on dolly you tap around until you hear the right sound. Dull thud for off-dolly, and "tink" high pitched metal on metal sound for on-dolly. "tink" is the sound of metal stretching. Do that to your skin and you are sunk. Also, 2024 can't really be hammered that much or it cracks. I've never heard of the spoon trick - that's awesome!
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Last edited by sblack : 03-22-2017 at 10:25 AM.
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