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Rv-7 or RV-9?

I'm interested in building either a -7 or -9. My concern is my size. I'm 6'5" about 230lbs. I have a 36" inseam, so long legs but not a tall torso.

I like the -7 for what it does, but I'm worried about room. I understand the -9 has more room.

Haven't been in either yet. I fly out of MKC and there was (I believe) a -9 in the hangar across from us, but I think he moved to OJC. There's a lot of RV's at LXT also, but not sure how many -7's or -9's.

Also looking at reviews/comparisons of each in other aspects too.

Any recommendations?

Thanks!
 
The RV-6(A) has the same shoulder room as a -7.

The -8 will have more shoulder room.

Sit in one or more before worrying about the model.
 
Jon,

It sounds like the -14/14A may be your best fit for mission objective and physical size requirements. As Ron stated, try on the others just for a data point on fit, visibility, etc. The more info the better. If you get out to Oregon, up to Oshkosh (Airventure), or Sun N Fun you can try the -14 on and then get a demo ride.

More info here:

http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv14.htm
 
Thanks for the info. Budget is big concern too, so I was leaning toward the -7. I also would like the ability to do mild aerobatics.

The -14 is interesting, Im concerned about the cost of the io-390, both in purchase and GPH.

I'll try to talk to someone at LXT, Scott, thanks for the info!
 
Mild aerobatics probably rules out the -9.

You set the gross weight on a plane but do read up on it. There is mucho wise discussions on this topic here.
 
Anyone on here in the 6'5" range that owns a -7?

I like the looks and engine options of the 7 over the 14. I think I've already ruled out the -9.
 
Welcome to VAF!!

Jon, welcome to VAF.

Just a point of info here, but some of the factory guys have told me that they like to use the 9 as their cross country bird. Great combination of economy and performance in a traveling machine.

First off is to define your personal mission------then fit the plane to it, as well as yourself.
 
RV-9A

I am 6'4" and 240 lbs and long in the torso. I fit OK in my RV-9A with the pedals moved forward as far as possible. I recently swapped in the AntiSplat "Almost a -14" crossbar behind the seat and got more room with the seatback reclined more. I highly recommend it.
 
I am 6'4" with a 35" inseam. I was fortunate enough to fly in a VERY nice -7 this summer. I would be very comfortable in the -7 WITHOUT the center throttle quadrant. I plan to build mine without it AND with 1" removed from the bottom of the panel. Move your seat back brace (mentioned in a post above) and I think you will be very comfortable as long as your copilot is not your size too. I found that I would have liked to be able to put my knee right where the throttle was. I considered the -14 but I am also on a budget and cannot afford the startup costs on the big engine. I am looking at mid time engines in the 320-360 range and will spend half or a third of the price.
 
Anyone on here in the 6'5" range that owns a -7?

I like the looks and engine options of the 7 over the 14. I think I've already ruled out the -9.

I'll go one better - I'm 6'5" w/34" inseam and 200 lbs, and I have an RV-6A. I fit fine. Not without some (really) minor tweaks, mind you:

  • Pedals are as far forward as they will go.
  • An extra attach point (hinge) for the pilot seat back is in place and is as aft as possible.
  • I was very careful in how I laid out the engine controls so as not to impinge on leg room. My panel does not have an extended sub-panel hanging below it. Still, this is enough room for EFIS + IFR avionics.

Finally, I don't use the booster cushion that DJ Lauritson included with my seats :) I have enough headroom that a helmet is ok. I think that if you plan for it while building a -7, you'll have plenty of room.
 
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Thanks for the info Brad. I'm interested in the -7 for sure. Glad to know someone my size fits okay.

Another question- are the seats adjustable or in a fixed position?
 
One More Tall One

One more data point (about the same input), 6'4" + a little, 200#, 36" inseam. Built and have been flying for 12 years, an RV6 slider.

Standard seat back, seat cushions pedal placement and Koger sunshade work fine. My main issue was inability to service under the panel with the original design which had engine controls on a vertical channel. Since moving the engine controls to a 6" long sub-panel, horizontal and a bit to the right of center, the plane has been a great fit.

But if I were doing it again (and a few years younger), I would try hard to find a way to make the 14 be the one.
 
Thanks for the info Brad. I'm interested in the -7 for sure. Glad to know someone my size fits okay.

Another question- are the seats adjustable or in a fixed position?

They are ground adjustable - no way to do it flight with the -7. Not sure about the -14.
 
Pirep on the anti-splat mod?

I am 6'4" and 240 lbs and long in the torso. I fit OK in my RV-9A with the pedals moved forward as far as possible. I recently swapped in the AntiSplat "Almost a -14" crossbar behind the seat and got more room with the seatback reclined more. I highly recommend it.

Doug,
can you tell us how long it REALLY took to do, and whether you rivetted or bolted it in?
I am a non-builder, but fairly capable, just wondering if it is in my future mod 'wish list'.....like I really need another 'winter' project eh? :)
 
Anti-Spalt Mod- Thread Creep Coming Up!

OK. I am not a builder, so I had to get comfortable with drilling out rivets and bucking in new rivets before tackling this job. To do this, I built one of Van's $25 tool boxes. To do this, I bought about $400 worth of tools and rivets from The Yard and Spruce. Like most of you guys, I really just needed an excuse to buy some serious builder tools, including a squeezer and a 2X gun.

I watched Allan's video carefully, and found it to be pretty close. I drilled out the existing rivets holding the Van's bar and cut it in half to remove it. No going back now! Several of the rivets were hard to get to because they were way under the roller track for the slider. Long drill bits are necessary. A sharp chisel also helped. The cockpit needed to be spread slightly to get the new bar in place. It was a little tricky getting the bar ends up flush and not interfering with the shop heads of the rivets coming in from the side, but it fits well.

I riveted the new bar in per Allan's instructions. I had asked Allan to include the necessary rivets for us non-builders, which he did. He may be including these with new shipments. I used both the squeezer and gun because of the rivet locations. The assembly is then drilled for the bolts going down through the canopy stops. I probably put in more rivets than necessary, but hey, I got to justify those new tools!

I did not track the time, but I spent probably 8-10 hours total on the project. I was spending a lot of time thinking it through, since I am not an experienced builder, and I worked alone. I could do it again in less than half the time.

I sit farther back now and have so much headroom that I installed the small booster pad under my Classic Aero seat cushion to keep my sight line the same. By laying my seat back against the bar and using the flap on the PAX seat, my right shoulder can go behind the PAX left sholder a little, adding to the apparent cabin width. I am considering installing another set of hinges on the floor about 1" back to get more leg room. Shouldn't be hard, now that I have tools and rivets on hand...

Doug
RV-9A
 
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