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New guy front tire change help

A

animal145

Member
Good afternoon team.

I cheated and bought my rv 8a. I changed my main tires with a a&p buddy. One tire was out of round.

I’m still chasing down a shimmy so I’m going to replace the nose tire and adjust the breakout force.

I’ve done a search but I have not seen how to jack the plane up to accomplish this task.

I have two hydraulic jacks,an adjustable tail stand, and weights.

What is the best way to elevate the nose enough to make this happen?
And Specifically where do I put sandbags/push on the tail to raise the nose?
Thanks in advance for your help!!!

Alex.
 
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My EZ reusable method of raising the nose wheel.
Obtain:
Harbor Freight furniture dolly
Plywood to cover dolly
Large eye bolt from Hardware store
Ratchet tiedown
4 concrete blocks, 2 on each side of eyebolt

Assemble
Ratchet down the tail to raise nose
Remove 1block to lower nose, and remove tiedown
Safe, Clean, no mess.
I use it to store my manuals when not in use.
 
If you’re talking the DIY cylinder jacks, first I chock both mains, front and back. Then I use one jack on center line under the firewall, incorporating a 1x2 laterally to help spread the load. Lower the nose strut onto another piece of wood for safety while away working on the hub.
 
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Floor jack under the nose gear leg in front of the tire. Use a small square of plywood on the pad so as to not damage the threads. Have a block of wood nearby to lower the fork into once the tire is removed.

Bevan
 
animal145 said:
Good afternoon team.

I cheated and bought my rv 8a. I changed my main tires with a a&p buddy. One tire was out of round.

I?m still chasing down a shimmy so I?m going to replace the nose tire and adjust the breakout force.

I?ve done a search but I have not seen how to jack the plane up to accomplish this task.

I have two hydraulic jacks,an adjustable tail stand, and weights.

What is the best way to elevate the nose enough to make this happen?
And Specifically where do I put sandbags/push on the tail to raise the nose?
Thanks in advance for your help!!!

Alex.
Click to expand...

As others have mentioned in previous threads if trying to prevent shimmy, be sure and balance the MAINS AND the Nose wheel. - along with breakout force, tire pressure, and no pivot slop.
 
I use a case of oil (about 24 lbs) on each side of the stabilizer then crank it down the rest of the way on the tail tie down. takes quite a bit of force (about 100 lbs) on the tie down otherwise. Always center weights over spars/bulkhead etc. to avoid skin damage.

Lifting from the motor mount or engine, that's an awful lot of force on the mount in the direction its not normally loaded in (usually upwards of 300 lbs on the nose wheel). You could tie it to the engine but that's still a lot weight on the 'hook', its so much easier to weight the tail down why would you.
 
Thanks all! I really appreciate all the feedback!

I I got the nose tire changed and per the EAA video I put in 45 psi expecting it to drop some... it only went down to 42 psi. I flew it and the shimmy is 95 percent gone now.

Going to drop the pressure to 35 psi. Maybe that will make the shimmy go away completely?

I?ll have to check into balancing the wheels. Sounds like more money will be on the way to spruce if the air pressure doesn?t do the trick.
 
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