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RV7 Rudder

Robb

Well Known Member
My RV flies fine except the ball is about 1/2 out of the cage. I have to fly with constant right rudder to keep it straight. Its not a big deal but on long flights my leg gets tired. My Husky has a trim tab to correct the problem and the RV does not. Whats the best way to deal with it ? I don't want to add a trim tab as it will look like ****.
 
Most RVs have a trim tab. Nobody is going to care except you. Some guys have added a trim system to the rudder cable (I don't know the details), others have made a moveable tab with a servo to move it. Do you happen to know Keith at Grass Valley? Maybe he can help. Good luck.
 
Gear Fairing Alignment is really sensitive!

My RV flies fine except the ball is about 1/2 out of the cage. I have to fly with constant right rudder to keep it straight. Its not a big deal but on long flights my leg gets tired. My Husky has a trim tab to correct the problem and the RV does not. Whats the best way to deal with it ? I don't want to add a trim tab as it will look like ****.

I am no expert, but now 18 hrs into Phase I and have been fiddling with the same. I jacked the plane and rechecked all the alignments, wheel pants, gear fairings. I tweaked the gear fairings maybe a 1/32" and the pants were within 1/16" One pant was rotated about it's axle 2 degrees (a lot). It did make a difference, a significant improvement, but still off a tick in cruise. 1/2 ball (G3X) would take two feet on the rudder to correct at 150 kts, so that is a lot.


Full disclosure, I also am progressing with a heavy wing correction, and moved 3 of 4 of the aileron hinges at the same time. I must have neutralized the changes as it still had about the same left heavy, so I don't think it had anything to do with the rudder issue.

In a dark hangar I might just tweak the gear fairings another 1/32" on the TE to avoid a rudder wedge. :eek:
 
The manufactured plastic trim tabs painted to match and installled with professional double faced tape is not bad looking.
Trim tabs are very common on RV's.
 
The hanger gremlins must of have visited my hanger in the past year. I've been flying my -7 for over 4 years now and the first 3 years I flew it, there was no need for rudder correction in cruise. Over the past year or so I can definitely see a need for about a 1/4 ball of R Rudder. It's very strange.
 
I had the same problem on my -6. I installed rudder return springs on both my -7 and -6 mainly to keep the slack out of the cables. I found that on my -6 that if I used a slightly tighter spring on the right rudder cable it would compensate for the need for right rudder in cruise, sort of a rudder trim. Served the same purpose as an external tab, worked great.
 
Rudder tab

Clear silicone will attach a modest tab on your rudder and it can be easily removed.
 
Clear silicone will attach a modest tab on your rudder and it can be easily removed.

Be careful with silicone and aluminum. Acetic acid is released on some types while curing which can lead to corrosion. Easiest way to identify is if it smells like vinegar, don't use it.
 
Mine was the same. I simply used my hands to tweak the rudder trailing edge very slightly. Took a couple iterations (went too far at first) but it now flies straight in cruise and requires less right rudder in climb. You would not know by looking at it that I did anything.
 
Rudder

Pull the wheel pants and fairing and go flying. If she fly straight without need for rudder pedal then the problem is misaligned fairings and/ or wheel pants. I just went through this so I know of what I speak.

Robert
 
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