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SW Jet Flex WR Durability? Not happy with samples! May not use?

J

jj_jetmech

Well Known Member
I bought a gallon of SW Jet Flex and getting ready to paint my interior so I loaded my gun and sprayed (4) 1' foot sample squares.

I wanted to set up my gun, see how this stuff sprays and test its durability..

The 4 samples were as follows, 1. dirty alum, 2. cleaned and etched, 3. Cleaned etched and alodine, 4. cleaned etched, alodined and primed.

No issues spraying but after 1+ week of cure time I am disappointed at how easily I can chemically remove or soften this paint. Alcohol, lacquer thinner, skydrol, 5606 all attack it with not much effort.

I don't think I am going to use it, what a waste of $160. I know its intended for cabin interiors but my cabin has fuel and hydraulic fluid in it.. An airline cabin has coffee and wine.. and actually I dont think WR is used widely in the certified world, not sure...

I manage a couple Corporate airplanes painted with Jet Glo and it is amazing alcohol and Lacquer thinner cant even begin to bother it..

I want more durability...

Everyone seems pretty happy with Jet Flex.... What am I missing?

Can anyone comment as to how well JF has held up over time to general cleaning, 5606 and fuel....

Thanks
 
I have it in my interior. Easy to touch up when damaged....but is fragile compared to Epoxy. Epoxy is much more of a pain to work with though. Would I put it in another plane? Not sure really....the touch up is so easy (roller, not toxic, blends perfectly), I might.

It's been in my plane for a year and a couple hundred hours. General cleaning? I can't say that I've needed to scrub my interior or anything. Scratches accumulate, but 5 minutes to touch up....with no masking or anything needed...everything is a tradeoff I guess.
 
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I used it, largely base on recommendations here, and I'm pleased with ease of application, appearance and low fumes. Not the most durable finish out there, to be sure, but I don't mind the occasional touch-up. I use a lot of care during assembly with blue tape to protect the finish.

Once I start flying, I think the biggest cause of scratches/chips inside will be seatbelt latches. I'm going to go with something more durable for the slider channel, as it will undoubtedly take some abuse from shoes as you step into the plane...maybe powder coat, or anodizing.
 
Solvent Based Works Great

jj_jetmech said:
I bought a gallon of SW Jet Flex and getting ready to paint my interior so I loaded my gun and sprayed (4) 1' foot sample squares.

I wanted to set up my gun, see how this stuff sprays and test its durability..

The 4 samples were as follows, 1. dirty alum, 2. cleaned and etched, 3. Cleaned etched and alodine, 4. cleaned etched, alodined and primed.

No issues spraying but after 1+ week of cure time I am disappointed at how easily I can chemically remove or soften this paint. Alcohol, lacquer thinner, skydrol, 5606 all attack it with not much effort.

I don't think I am going to use it, what a waste of $160. I know its intended for cabin interiors but my cabin has fuel and hydraulic fluid in it.. An airline cabin has coffee and wine.. and actually I dont think WR is used widely in the certified world, not sure...

I manage a couple Corporate airplanes painted with Jet Glo and it is amazing alcohol and Lacquer thinner cant even begin to bother it..

I want more durability...

Everyone seems pretty happy with Jet Flex.... What am I missing?

Can anyone comment as to how well JF has held up over time to general cleaning, 5606 and fuel....

Thanks
Click to expand...

I did all of my interior with the traditional (solvent) based formulation. Some is sprayed over bare (scuffed/cleaned) aluminum; some over AKZO primer (green); some over PPG DP-40LF. All of it is great - tough as nails. It does take some time to fully cure to the point where solvents don't mess with it - a couple of weeks seems to do it.
I'd use it again.
FWIW.
 
What Dan Said

I also used solvent based Jet Flex back in 2005 when we painted the interior of my RV9a. It went on over two part primer. The stuff is like powder coating----it is near impossible to scratch, is highly chemical resistant, easy to clean and touch up if you do mark it. I love the stuff---although it was a pain to apply. I found it to be VERY temperature sensitive----it liked to be applied at a temp of 60-70 degrees F. Too cold or too hot and it would either dry in the air or run.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

db
 
I used Flat Black and color matched Grey (matched to the powder coated VAN's canopy frame color) rattle cans for all interior exposed surfaces. Flat black for the panel, grey for everything else. Cheap to buy, easy to apply, durable. Just about to hit 5 years of flying and can't see where there are any scuffs anywhere except on the slider track, which is to be expected with all the abuse in that area.

Here is a pic. It was taken after picking up from Grady's shop a few years ago but still looks just like this today:
panel%2520pic%2520large.JPG
 
db1yg said:
I also used solvent based Jet Flex back in 2005 when we painted the interior of my RV9a. It went on over two part primer. The stuff is like powder coating----it is near impossible to scratch, is highly chemical resistant, easy to clean and touch up if you do mark it. I love the stuff---although it was a pain to apply. I found it to be VERY temperature sensitive----it liked to be applied at a temp of 60-70 degrees F. Too cold or too hot and it would either dry in the air or run.

db
Click to expand...

Very Helpful, glad to hear your feedback!!

I am switching to the Jet Flex Solvent based. Over SW CM0483660 epoxy primer which I already have in the flam cabinet, this will help offset the cost of switching products..

Should prime and paint all removable parts this weekend and Ill report back...

Thanks!
 
JetFlex color

Hi Jason,

I sent you an e-mail regarding your Jet Flex paint. I tried to send a PM too, but your message box is full.

Thanks,
 
I used JetFlex in my interior and I'm very happy with it. I don't think you gave it enough cure time. One week isn't enough, especially if you live in an area with high humidity. Let it cure for a while. Mine is hard as a rock and I couldn't be happier. Not to mention the easy cleanup with water, easy fix-ups, no fumes, no paint booth or air filtration or masks required. I like the semi-gloss finish, too. No reflections or glares in the cabin. I'd use it again in a heartbeat. :)
 
I agree with Bruce on all he has to say - I have also used the WB JetFlex and after several weeks its pretty hard ... But I would not paint with no face mask ... it may be water soluble, but not sure that having your lungs lined with the vapour is good idea ;-) ...
 
BSwayze said:
I used JetFlex in my interior and I'm very happy with it. I don't think you gave it enough cure time. One week isn't enough, especially if you live in an area with high humidity. Let it cure for a while. Mine is hard as a rock and I couldn't be happier. Not to mention the easy cleanup with water, easy fix-ups, no fumes, no paint booth or air filtration or masks required. I like the semi-gloss finish, too. No reflections or glares in the cabin. I'd use it again in a heartbeat. :)
Click to expand...

My SW WR test samples had cured for many weeks and although it was probably suitable it just didn't present the durability I was looking for.. Easily compromised by alcohol and laquer thinner.

I painted all my interior parts this week with SW Jet Flex solvent paint over a very light coat of SW Epoxy Primer..I am very happy with the results.. I mixed 7:1 then reduced about 40%. It laid down awesome, dried quickly and meets the chemical resistantance I wanted. I do have a paint booth and an air filtration mask available to me so that makes a difference.. Although the WR is probably suitable for most and way better than a rattle bomb I doubt I will regret changing systems.
 
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