Van's Air Force
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Opening the fuel tank
- Thread starter rlricks
- Start date
Fuel tank
It should not be necessary to remove the sending unit. Good luck getting that large plate unstuck. You could try some heat and a sharp putty knife. Has anyone used a release agent on that large plate to make it easier to remove in the future? Or will that cause a leak?
Joe
It should not be necessary to remove the sending unit. Good luck getting that large plate unstuck. You could try some heat and a sharp putty knife. Has anyone used a release agent on that large plate to make it easier to remove in the future? Or will that cause a leak?
Joe
herve-RV7
Active Member
Tank sealant remover
Vans proposes a tank sealant remover in the accessories catalog.
I have never tried this product yet
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1288821123-216-543&browse=new&product=polygone
Vans proposes a tank sealant remover in the accessories catalog.
I have never tried this product yet
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1288821123-216-543&browse=new&product=polygone
Did it once
I used a 1 1/2" wide thin flexible putty blade with a hammer, and tapping it under the edge and work around the large plate. Doesn't take that long to do. Use a thin blade with a good handle, and it will work. Mine was an all metal putty knife. I cleaned off the surfaces with a wire wheel on an angle grinder to clean the surfaces. BE SURE TO DRY OUT THE TANK WELL, before you start.
John Bender
I used a 1 1/2" wide thin flexible putty blade with a hammer, and tapping it under the edge and work around the large plate. Doesn't take that long to do. Use a thin blade with a good handle, and it will work. Mine was an all metal putty knife. I cleaned off the surfaces with a wire wheel on an angle grinder to clean the surfaces. BE SURE TO DRY OUT THE TANK WELL, before you start.
John Bender
Hey BigJohn
Van's came out with a mod to put backup washers on the rivets that hold the fuel tank baffles in place. They decided they could pull out if in an accident, and maybe leak. I don't remember, but I'm guessing it is in the latest fuel tank building instructions.
John Bender
Van's came out with a mod to put backup washers on the rivets that hold the fuel tank baffles in place. They decided they could pull out if in an accident, and maybe leak. I don't remember, but I'm guessing it is in the latest fuel tank building instructions.
John Bender
Trying to make sense of this...
OK then, I guess that mod was a long time ago. Before I built my tank, because I remember installing those washers. They are called out on Page 37-03, Rev. 1, dated 08/14/09. Whew! I was afraid this was something new.
Still don't understand why you would go back in after the tank was all sealed up.
OK then, I guess that mod was a long time ago. Before I built my tank, because I remember installing those washers. They are called out on Page 37-03, Rev. 1, dated 08/14/09. Whew! I was afraid this was something new.
Still don't understand why you would go back in after the tank was all sealed up.
Even if you did, its not that big a deal to take the top off. God knows how many of us did it to cover up the plastic at the beginning. Just drill out the rivets and use the putty knife John talks about to peel it off. The hardest part is getting it clean for new proseal. Yes, it was changed on the plans a long time ago, before most of us were done fixing the plastic problem. I would not even mess with the front circle...the sender is in there...and right now it's working!
And ...
What Pete said!
Also, why not consider installing the fuel gauge while your at it. Does make it very nice when refueling, and flying.
One point about reinstalling the top. If you seal the edges and then stick your arm in there to reinstall the overflow tube, you will find that you will transfer
gobs of the sealer to a shirt or your underarm. How do I know?
Dick
What Pete said!
Also, why not consider installing the fuel gauge while your at it. Does make it very nice when refueling, and flying.
One point about reinstalling the top. If you seal the edges and then stick your arm in there to reinstall the overflow tube, you will find that you will transfer
gobs of the sealer to a shirt or your underarm. How do I know?
Dick
Happy so far with the sight window
I am a bit hesistant to raise this issue again but I will do it anyway. While I may be in the minority, I am very happy so far with the sight window on my tank. A simple shine of a flashlight through the rear window and I can easily see the fuel level. And there is nothing more accurate than actually seeing the level in the tank. I took extra care when I installed and sealed the window and have had no leaks (knock on wood). I agree that it would be pretty hard to see in flight but then, that is not the purpose in my eyes. It is really part of a pre-flight confirmation of the level on the Dynon.
Has anyone else had problems with the window developing cracks since they changed the material?
Jeff
I am a bit hesistant to raise this issue again but I will do it anyway. While I may be in the minority, I am very happy so far with the sight window on my tank. A simple shine of a flashlight through the rear window and I can easily see the fuel level. And there is nothing more accurate than actually seeing the level in the tank. I took extra care when I installed and sealed the window and have had no leaks (knock on wood). I agree that it would be pretty hard to see in flight but then, that is not the purpose in my eyes. It is really part of a pre-flight confirmation of the level on the Dynon.
Has anyone else had problems with the window developing cracks since they changed the material?
Jeff
dick seiders
Well Known Member
When having to re-do my sight glass I went into tank thru the front sender plate. Getting it off was not difficult. Simply used a putty knife and once it's started it is quite easy. Re sealing is not an issue either. There is no reason to remove remaining proseal. Just smear the new application right over it and it will seal.
Now an important footnote:
The sight glass repair did not work trying to do it thru the front opening. Don't recommend that at all. Take the top of the tank off to provide needed access.
Dick Seiders
Now an important footnote:
The sight glass repair did not work trying to do it thru the front opening. Don't recommend that at all. Take the top of the tank off to provide needed access.
Dick Seiders
Threetracker
Active Member
The Window Has To Go...
I love 'die hard's', Jeff, but the sight window has to go! The Moller gauge is simple and inexpensive and it instills confidence and accuracy at every point; fueling, pre-flight, and in-flight look-see.
I wish you good luck with your 'sightwindow', though.
Jay Sluiter
Albany Oregon
N124CS
I love 'die hard's', Jeff, but the sight window has to go! The Moller gauge is simple and inexpensive and it instills confidence and accuracy at every point; fueling, pre-flight, and in-flight look-see.
I wish you good luck with your 'sightwindow', though.
Jay Sluiter
Albany Oregon
N124CS
I also replaced the sight glass being very carefull to do everything diligently.
Didn't work. I believe vibration and twisting causes problems for the seal.
That's why I had to do the procedure again to install the Moller fuel gauge.
And this time I sealed off the sight glass altogether.
Dick
Didn't work. I believe vibration and twisting causes problems for the seal.
That's why I had to do the procedure again to install the Moller fuel gauge.
And this time I sealed off the sight glass altogether.
Dick
