PerfTech
Well Known Member
....We did have another guy say it was to long and I think he may be right! What can I say? I try my best and many people do like the videos. Thanks, Allan..
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- Thread starter PerfTech
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....We did have another guy say it was to long and I think he may be right! What can I say? I try my best and many people do like the videos. Thanks, Allan..
So far, you have seven owners (five 10's, a 7 and a 9) with public reports of blockages in a thread here on VAF, in just the last two weeks. The grapevine has been rumbling since S&F. Sorry, just the facts.
The trend says it's the tip of an iceberg. Let's see what happens as the fleet hours roll up on the whole trifecta...plugged evacuators, stubby HS spar doublers as substitutes for the factory kit, and 50C actuators.
I liked the video
I thought the video was good. The best one to date.
....We did have another guy say it was to long and I think he may be right! What can I say? I try my best and many people do like the videos. Thanks, Allan..
I thought the video was good. The best one to date.
Brantel
Well Known Member
... Considering the fact that I have been marketing this product, and oil separators since 1970 and have literally thousands in use with no problems reported. I think perhaps "wide spread" might be somewhat strong or misleading. I have been contacted by three people (all in the last two years) telling us of a problem they encountered. Two were coking problems, both of these, on RV-10s. We contacted our dealers, posted this issue ourselves on all the experimental forums, thus making people aware of a potential problem and telling them how to verify that they weren't effected. Everyone reported that the problem was non existent on their installation. Because of this potential problem, I am stopping sales of the vacuum systems for the RV-10s until we can determine through more testing the cause on the two reported coking issues. The other issue was with one of the valves, where it had came loose inside where riveted together and parts began to rattle. This was addressed by going to a more robust / expensive valve assembly on subsequent units. I hardly think our actions makes us appear irresponsible in any way. Also I don't believe these people with this "wide spread" issue would make some uninvolved third party aware of it and neglect contacting the manufacturer so it could be addressed and remedied. If these people are out there? Please, contact us immediately so we can help you. We stand behind all of our products and services 100% and strive to offer the most exemplary customer service humanly possible. Contact me personally if you find this not the case.
Allan,
Since I have zero experience with these things and the issue at hand, I would prefer to get out of this conversation and stay out. Somehow I got sucked into being the middle man in this conversation and I am out....
I look forward to trying out the cowl flaps which is what this thread is about
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PerfTech
Well Known Member
HSANTIBANEZ
Well Known Member
Might be another thoughts
I dont know why but these is not the first time that Allan launch a new product and get a full investigation to make his products trash.
might be another thoughts...
In these case if the actuator fail it is no risk to have a mayor failure. If some body dont like the product dont buy it.
I dont know why but these is not the first time that Allan launch a new product and get a full investigation to make his products trash.
might be another thoughts...
In these case if the actuator fail it is no risk to have a mayor failure. If some body dont like the product dont buy it.
PerfTech
Well Known Member
... Like I said, I find it very strange that any effected owners (other than the ones I stated) have failed to contact ASA with a product issue. I sincerely hope they do when seeing this, so we can be of service. Thanks, Allan..
Not only I don’t sense it that way, I do appreciate it when an alternative view and information is provided which some of us might not be experienced enough to note.
This is especially valuable for me when the alternative view is presented with engineering reasoning and facts which is the case here.
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.... I try my best and many people do like the videos. Thanks, Allan..
Allan,
I was just having a little fun with you. Your video is just fine. You come across as earnest and honest and I don't think the "Sham-Wow" could pull that off.
NYTOM
Well Known Member
Experts
True, but sometimes that alternate engineering reasoning is just opinion and any facts are not really facts till checked.
Just saying. There sure are a lot of opinions around here and you know what they say about opinions!
True, but sometimes that alternate engineering reasoning is just opinion and any facts are not really facts till checked.
Just saying. There sure are a lot of opinions around here and you know what they say about opinions!
True, but sometimes that alternate engineering reasoning is just opinion and any facts are not really facts till checked.
Just saying. There sure are a lot of opinions around here and you know what they say about opinions!
Absolutely, but I also believe that some opinions carry more credibility than others which in the context of this discussion is often established thru display of craftsmanship, technical knowledge/knowhow and sound reasoning.
PerfTech
Well Known Member
...Need to agree with Mel on this one but I did play with it and was no detectable difference. One thing I did find very surprising though. I went to a cruising altitude, trimmed and set the auto pilot at 170 kts. I waited and let everything settle down then opened both cowl flaps to see the effect on speed. To my surprise it was only about 2 to 3 kts. I was sure it would be more than that. I think this is great! Thanks, Allan...
Photos of your cowl?
Allan,
Do you have any photos of the inside of you lower cowl with the cowl flap installed? There are a few variations of Vettermen exhausts produced over the years. Also the heat muffs also vary in location. Do you have photos from some of the beta testers installationsl that might show the cowl flap installed on aircaft with the varying exhaust systems
Any images would be helpful.
Allan,
Do you have any photos of the inside of you lower cowl with the cowl flap installed? There are a few variations of Vettermen exhausts produced over the years. Also the heat muffs also vary in location. Do you have photos from some of the beta testers installationsl that might show the cowl flap installed on aircaft with the varying exhaust systems
Any images would be helpful.
PerfTech
Well Known Member
... I am sorry but the photos I have probably are not what you need. I will post a few here and on next cowl removal I will shoot some good ones. This is the exhaust system on my RV-9 and is the most popular one. Also you can see my heat shields that stop the radiated heat from attacking the cowl etc.
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Thanks, Allan...
PerfTech
Well Known Member
Almost Forgot This!!!!
....Here are the pressure differential numbers we gathered on my airplane (RV-9A). These percentages of increases were typical of what was gathered on all the other tests aircraft with stock Vans factory cowl. We installed a second unit and tested the improvement as many people were ordering two and ask for this differential information.
.
.
....Here are the pressure differential numbers we gathered on my airplane (RV-9A). These percentages of increases were typical of what was gathered on all the other tests aircraft with stock Vans factory cowl. We installed a second unit and tested the improvement as many people were ordering two and ask for this differential information.
.
.
mtnclimber
Active Member
Alan, You mention "percentages of increase", but these look like absolute numbers. What are the units of pressure measurement?
Roger
Roger
As a user of the anti splat gear leg stiffener and gust lock I am a believer in Alan's products. I also suffer from high CHT's on climb out, but what I would really like to know is what kind of CHT temp drop various RV's are getting with 1 and or 2 cowl flaps. I am looking forward to reports from early adapters of the product before I purchase one or two.
It would be great if someone has them and can report at the Oshkosh beer blast!
John Morgan
It would be great if someone has them and can report at the Oshkosh beer blast!
John Morgan
Brantel
Well Known Member
I am taking the risk and will be starting my install this evening as long as UPS does their job...will report. I am encouraged by the DP numbers that Allan posted.
DISCLAIMER: Please make up your own mind as to the value of any product that I review here on VAF. I like to review the products that I buy and use. Typically I tell it like it is and include my likes and my dislikes. In this case I am a guy with a problem keeping his CHT's under control during climbout on hot days and Allan came along and offered a commercial solution to my problem. I am taking the risk of trying his new product by buying/installing/using them and will report my experience here in this thread. As always Your Results May Vary!
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Brantel
Well Known Member
Has anyone received theirs yet, and can possibly tell me what is involved with the wiring?
Do they come with wire and connectors?
I would not have to ask if I were home with all my tools and building supplies, but out here where I am I need to order in wire etc if needed.
Randall in Carlsbad NM
Built RV7A and went through 4 Subes...
New to me RV6A with all very standard stuff in it
Mine came with the switch, LED and wire with the model airplane servo style connectors on em. Some cutting/stripping and soldering required. This wire is not aircraft grade Tefzel. You must provide your own circuit protection. The spec sheet says that the stalled out current draw is 650mA for one actuator so plan ahead accordingly.
DISCLAIMER: Please make up your own mind as to the value of any product that I review here on VAF. I like to review the products that I buy and use. Typically I tell it like it is and include my likes and my dislikes. In this case I am a guy with a problem keeping his CHT's under control during climbout on hot days and Allan came along and offered a commercial solution to my problem. I am taking the risk of trying his new product by buying/installing/using them and will report my experience here in this thread. As always Your Results May Vary!
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Brantel
Well Known Member
Got my cowl flaps from Allan today and started the install. Pics to follow when I am done but the units are very well made and all the parts are precision cut. If the actuator can old up to the temp, I see no reason why the aluminum parts of these things won't last the lifetime of the airframe.
I do have a minor but solvable issue with the fact that my cowl is thicker than what was expected by about 0.030". My cowl is of the early pink cowl time frame if that matters.
I decided to seal up the edges of the honeycomb with some epoxy/micro mix and that is curing overnight.
DISCLAIMER: Please make up your own mind as to the value of any product that I review here on VAF. I like to review the products that I buy and use. Typically I tell it like it is and include my likes and my dislikes. In this case I am a guy with a problem keeping his CHT's under control during climbout on hot days and Allan came along and offered a commercial solution to my problem. I am taking the risk of trying his new product by buying/installing/using them and will report my experience here in this thread. As always Your Results May Vary!
I do have a minor but solvable issue with the fact that my cowl is thicker than what was expected by about 0.030". My cowl is of the early pink cowl time frame if that matters.
I decided to seal up the edges of the honeycomb with some epoxy/micro mix and that is curing overnight.
DISCLAIMER: Please make up your own mind as to the value of any product that I review here on VAF. I like to review the products that I buy and use. Typically I tell it like it is and include my likes and my dislikes. In this case I am a guy with a problem keeping his CHT's under control during climbout on hot days and Allan came along and offered a commercial solution to my problem. I am taking the risk of trying his new product by buying/installing/using them and will report my experience here in this thread. As always Your Results May Vary!
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Brantel
Well Known Member
Here is the measurement of the thickness of the blank I cut out of the bottom of my pepto pink cowl:
Found the flatest spot in the cowl to install and stay on the honeycomb area for consistent thickness. Should clear the exhaust easily.
I used epoxy and micro mixed up thick as peanut butter and filled the exposed edges of the honeycomb where the cuts were made. Let that cure overnight and then went back and filed/sanded it all smooth. I then painted the edge to match the cowl and to seal it all up. This worked out very well.
Painted the flaps to match the cowl.
Here you can see what is almost the end result. I plan to use some stainless 6-32 button head screws to make it easy to remove if I need to for maintenance.
As you can see the cowl is not perfectly flat in this area but it is not as bad as the digital camera makes it appear in pics. It seems the design of the units will accept a certain amount of curvature and they also will pull the cowl a little bit and the combo of the two makes it a OK...
I decided that I am not going to mess around with trying to make the surface of the flap match exactly the surface of the cowl. It is close enough for me and to apply a fix may not be worth the effort.
More to come as progress continues....
DISCLAIMER: Please make up your own mind as to the value of any product that I review here on VAF. I like to review the products that I buy and use. Typically I tell it like it is and include my likes and my dislikes. In this case I am a guy with a problem keeping his CHT's under control during climbout on hot days and Allan came along and offered a commercial solution to my problem. I am taking the risk of trying his new product by buying/installing/using them and will report my experience here in this thread. As always Your Results May Vary!
Found the flatest spot in the cowl to install and stay on the honeycomb area for consistent thickness. Should clear the exhaust easily.
I used epoxy and micro mixed up thick as peanut butter and filled the exposed edges of the honeycomb where the cuts were made. Let that cure overnight and then went back and filed/sanded it all smooth. I then painted the edge to match the cowl and to seal it all up. This worked out very well.
Painted the flaps to match the cowl.
Here you can see what is almost the end result. I plan to use some stainless 6-32 button head screws to make it easy to remove if I need to for maintenance.
As you can see the cowl is not perfectly flat in this area but it is not as bad as the digital camera makes it appear in pics. It seems the design of the units will accept a certain amount of curvature and they also will pull the cowl a little bit and the combo of the two makes it a OK...
I decided that I am not going to mess around with trying to make the surface of the flap match exactly the surface of the cowl. It is close enough for me and to apply a fix may not be worth the effort.
More to come as progress continues....
DISCLAIMER: Please make up your own mind as to the value of any product that I review here on VAF. I like to review the products that I buy and use. Typically I tell it like it is and include my likes and my dislikes. In this case I am a guy with a problem keeping his CHT's under control during climbout on hot days and Allan came along and offered a commercial solution to my problem. I am taking the risk of trying his new product by buying/installing/using them and will report my experience here in this thread. As always Your Results May Vary!
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alpinelakespilot2000
Well Known Member
Thanks for the progress report, Brian! I'm sure there are a lot of us very interested in how it turns out for you in terms of temp. deltas with flaps closed vs. open.
PerfTech
Well Known Member
... These are inches of water column pressure. The numbers stated represent the differential pressure from the top cowl to the bottom cowl. Thanks, Allan...
LifeofReiley
Well Known Member
Nice!!
Brian, you're on it... very nice work. Can't wait for more. I think you can put that cut out material back in place at the cowl exit when you're done. Some Speed Back Baby!!
Brian, you're on it... very nice work. Can't wait for more.
I think you can put that cut out material back in place at the cowl exit when you're done. Some Speed Back Baby!!
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Brantel
Well Known Member
While it may appear like I am on a fast track to test flight, I still have many things to do while the cowl is off to prepare for Osh. so it may be a few days before the results are in.
I also need to clean the belly of the plane, the flaps and a few other things before the show.
Tonight I finished up the cowling part of the install. Next is to add the switch and wires to the panel.
I decided to forgo the model airplane servo type wiring and connectors and splice in some real Tefzel airplane grade wire. Just from limited testing I am not sure it would be wise to try and run two of these things off of one of those tiny extension leads/connectors. I don't like redoing stuff so I did not want to take a chance and decided to roll my own wiring.
Did that and then reflective taped them to the cowl up and around to the top left corner where I will install a connector.
Not sure if it will help or not but I also applied some reflective tape to the actuator body where possible.
Tested everything up to this point and was trying to see how much power these things had and almost mashed the tip of my middle finger off. Beware these things are strong!
DISCLAIMER: Please make up your own mind as to the value of any product that I review here on VAF. I like to review the products that I buy and use. Typically I tell it like it is and include my likes and my dislikes. In this case I am a guy with a problem keeping his CHT's under control during climbout on hot days and Allan came along and offered a commercial solution to my problem. I am taking the risk of trying his new product by buying/installing/using them and will report my experience here in this thread. As always Your Results May Vary!
I also need to clean the belly of the plane, the flaps and a few other things before the show.
Tonight I finished up the cowling part of the install. Next is to add the switch and wires to the panel.
I decided to forgo the model airplane servo type wiring and connectors and splice in some real Tefzel airplane grade wire. Just from limited testing I am not sure it would be wise to try and run two of these things off of one of those tiny extension leads/connectors. I don't like redoing stuff so I did not want to take a chance and decided to roll my own wiring.
Did that and then reflective taped them to the cowl up and around to the top left corner where I will install a connector.
Not sure if it will help or not but I also applied some reflective tape to the actuator body where possible.
Tested everything up to this point and was trying to see how much power these things had and almost mashed the tip of my middle finger off. Beware these things are strong!
DISCLAIMER: Please make up your own mind as to the value of any product that I review here on VAF. I like to review the products that I buy and use. Typically I tell it like it is and include my likes and my dislikes. In this case I am a guy with a problem keeping his CHT's under control during climbout on hot days and Allan came along and offered a commercial solution to my problem. I am taking the risk of trying his new product by buying/installing/using them and will report my experience here in this thread. As always Your Results May Vary!
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alpinelakespilot2000
Well Known Member
Brian-
Are you going to be running both doors off one switch or two?
Are you going to be running both doors off one switch or two?
Brantel
Well Known Member
To keep it simple, one. They are both wired to the same feed line. The kit came with two switches and LED's if you want to go with two.
Each unit has its own internal limit switches so there is not problem with em getting out of sync or anything like that. They just run till the end and stop.
DISCLAIMER: Please make up your own mind as to the value of any product that I review here on VAF. I like to review the products that I buy and use. Typically I tell it like it is and include my likes and my dislikes. In this case I am a guy with a problem keeping his CHT's under control during climbout on hot days and Allan came along and offered a commercial solution to my problem. I am taking the risk of trying his new product by buying/installing/using them and will report my experience here in this thread. As always Your Results May Vary!
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NYTOM
Well Known Member
Is one enough, two too many.
Brian I was just wondering, the reason you went with two cowl flaps. Could that be overkill for any reason. Maybe a chance of a little shock cooling ? Two sure look better and make for a balanced appearance.
Can't wait to see them at OSh. Your going to be the first consumer tester.
Brian I was just wondering, the reason you went with two cowl flaps. Could that be overkill for any reason. Maybe a chance of a little shock cooling ?
Two sure look better and make for a balanced appearance. Can't wait to see them at OSh. Your going to be the first consumer tester.
Brantel
Well Known Member
Brian I was just wondering, the reason you went with two cowl flaps. Could that be overkill for any reason. Maybe a chance of a little shock cooling ?
Can't wait to see them at OSh. Your going to be the first consumer tester.
I went with 2 partly because I wanted a symmetrical look.
I also figure that 75-80 percent of the benefits most likely will come from adding one and two most likely won't lead to anything bad "BUT"
Allan posted his pressure drop testing table that seems to indicate ~ 45-55% increase in DP (2 vs 1) in the speed zones I am interested in. I am not sure how DP correlates to CHT drop without looking up one of Dan's charts. I am guessing it will improve them but not by enough to be concerned about going too far.
....Here are the pressure differential numbers we gathered on my airplane (RV-9A). These percentages of increases were typical of what was gathered on all the other tests aircraft with stock Vans factory cowl. We installed a second unit and tested the improvement as many people were ordering two and ask for this differential information.
.
.
Bottom line is that I want to be able to use the climb performance of the RV and have been limited by CHT's. Using the redneck engineering theory of if one is good then two must be better!
I know there will be a speed penalty of using two over one but I don't care about that in the climb.
DISCLAIMER: Please make up your own mind as to the value of any product that I review here on VAF. I like to review the products that I buy and use. Typically I tell it like it is and include my likes and my dislikes. In this case I am a guy with a problem keeping his CHT's under control during climbout on hot days and Allan came along and offered a commercial solution to my problem. I am taking the risk of trying his new product by buying/installing/using them and will report my experience here in this thread. As always Your Results May Vary!
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Tested everything up to this point and was trying to see how much power these things had and almost mashed the tip of my middle finger off. Beware these things are strong!
That sure does look like a heck of a bend radius on all of those folded parts.
Brantel
Well Known Member
Just telling it like it is: I have no idea what alloy this stuff is made out of and I am sure Allan can tell us but I can tell you that the form/fit/appearance of these things are as good as it gets. There is no sign of a crack or stress marks on any of these parts. Someone did a great job designing the tools for his press brake.
Lets also keep in mind that these are cowl flaps and not spars....
DISCLAIMER: Please make up your own mind as to the value of any product that I review here on VAF. I like to review the products that I buy and use. Typically I tell it like it is and include my likes and my dislikes. In this case I am a guy with a problem keeping his CHT's under control during climbout on hot days and Allan came along and offered a commercial solution to my problem. I am taking the risk of trying his new product by buying/installing/using them and will report my experience here in this thread. As always Your Results May Vary!
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Brantel
Well Known Member
I used the same but by the time I got done filling the raw honeycomb and filing/sanding the edges to fit the actual unit, the corners ended up close to square.
I doubt the radius is that critical as long as it looks good to suit you.
Something else to consider (I did not and wish I had) is the area up at the ends of the hinge. The hinge is not as wide as the flap so it leaves two gaps, one on each side. If I were doing it over again, I would customize my cutout in that area to eliminate those gaps....
DISCLAIMER: Please make up your own mind as to the value of any product that I review here on VAF. I like to review the products that I buy and use. Typically I tell it like it is and include my likes and my dislikes. In this case I am a guy with a problem keeping his CHT's under control during climbout on hot days and Allan came along and offered a commercial solution to my problem. I am taking the risk of trying his new product by buying/installing/using them and will report my experience here in this thread. As always Your Results May Vary!
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BillL
Well Known Member
....Here are the pressure differential numbers we gathered on my airplane (RV-9A). These percentages of increases were typical of what was gathered on all the other tests aircraft with stock Vans factory cowl. We installed a second unit and tested the improvement as many people were ordering two and ask for this differential information.
.
.
Alan, you have elevated your game by generating data and providing to this forum!! Thanks. A curious question, and surely you asked your self too, why the disparity of pressure from one and +1 open flaps? Was one better located than the other? If so it would give some quantification to the airflow chaos under the lower cowl.
rvator51
Well Known Member
Thanks Brian,
Wish I had read your post before I cut my opening because I have the same gap at the hinge as you do.
For the RV4 cowl, its only about 0.70 thick as it isnt honeycombed on the bottom. So the cowl flap sticks out at the bottom a lot.
I had to make a .125 shim all of the way around.
My cowl flap still sticks out about .050 so I need to increase the .125 shim to .175 to get it flush.
I used 6/32 screws temporally until I decide what the final configuration will be.
Wish I had read your post before I cut my opening because I have the same gap at the hinge as you do.
For the RV4 cowl, its only about 0.70 thick as it isnt honeycombed on the bottom. So the cowl flap sticks out at the bottom a lot.
I had to make a .125 shim all of the way around.
My cowl flap still sticks out about .050 so I need to increase the .125 shim to .175 to get it flush.
I used 6/32 screws temporally until I decide what the final configuration will be.
PerfTech
Well Known Member
...That was a good question! I just took the RV-9A back up as instrumentation was still installed. Got the same result, so I opened the other side first and got almost identical numbers. Answer to the question, don't know!...
PerfTech
Well Known Member
Thanks Brian,
Wish I had read your post before I cut my opening because I have the same gap at the hinge as you do.
For the RV4 cowl, its only about 0.70 thick as it isnt honeycombed on the bottom. So the cowl flap sticks out at the bottom a lot.
I had to make a .125 shim all of the way around.
My cowl flap still sticks out about .050 so I need to increase the .125 shim to .175 to get it flush.
I used 6/32 screws temporally until I decide what the final configuration will be.
... Sorry you had some difficulty with the thickness at .250". That is the thickness of most of the cowls and we had to pick something. I should have put in the instructions that a shim was required on the early cowl configuration. Perhaps on the next run we can laser out some shims for this purpose so it will be easier for the next guy. Thanks, Allan...
rvator51
Well Known Member
The kit included two sets of wires. I ran one from the servo up the side of the bottom cowl and covered it with aluminum tape to hold it in place.
The other set of wires is ran from the switch through the firewall and just used the supplied connector (someone said they were RC connectors) to connect to the wire from the servo and attached a standoff from my battery cover to hold them in place. I may change the connectors to a molex connector in the future. A side benefit now is that if the cowl flap is down for taxiing in, you will have a blinking light on the panel to remind you to turn the master switch off.
The other set of wires is ran from the switch through the firewall and just used the supplied connector (someone said they were RC connectors) to connect to the wire from the servo and attached a standoff from my battery cover to hold them in place. I may change the connectors to a molex connector in the future. A side benefit now is that if the cowl flap is down for taxiing in, you will have a blinking light on the panel to remind you to turn the master switch off.
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Brantel
Well Known Member
After running a 10K race in the pouring rain this morning, I changed the oil, finished the switch/wiring/led install for the cowl flaps (used a 2 pin molex plug for the disconnect), made another radiant heat shield for the non heat muff side of the exhaust, changed out some non-aircraft grade cushion clamps that were turning to goo and put the cowl on and took her for a spin.
I forgot to take one with em closed....sorry!
Too early to tell but I can say that I can already see a difference in CHT's during a hi performance climb. The cloud deck was not that high so I could not get a true test but the initial temps are promising.
I don't want to post numbers until I can go out and do some climbs with em open vs shut in similar atmospheric conditions. To do otherwise will just be a WAG and not very meaningful.
Straight and level in cruise @ 4300ft I am seeing a change of about 3 knots TAS open vs closed. The sound from the engine area changes when they are open.
Had the best wheel landing I have ever pulled off tonight. Too bad there was nobody there to see it!
I forgot to take one with em closed....sorry!
Too early to tell but I can say that I can already see a difference in CHT's during a hi performance climb. The cloud deck was not that high so I could not get a true test but the initial temps are promising.
I don't want to post numbers until I can go out and do some climbs with em open vs shut in similar atmospheric conditions. To do otherwise will just be a WAG and not very meaningful.
Straight and level in cruise @ 4300ft I am seeing a change of about 3 knots TAS open vs closed. The sound from the engine area changes when they are open.
Had the best wheel landing I have ever pulled off tonight. Too bad there was nobody there to see it!
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PerfTech
Well Known Member
Temperature Improvements?
...We received many e-mails and phone calls asking for information as to the difference in climb temperatures we encountered on climb outs. I am very reluctant to say this will do "this" when it comes to temperature problems as the root causes can be any number of, or a combination of several things. That being said, I went out this last weekend to do some testing with temperature being the only parameter looked at. With the engine fully warmed up, I performed nine climbs to altitude, at three different climb speeds, 80 kts, 100 kts and 120 kts all starting at 1,500' and terminating at 8,500'. Each speed first with EZ Cool flaps closed, then with one open, then with both open. The results were as follows;
....80 kts closed= peak 430 deg. one open = 419 deg two open = 407 deg.
..100 kts closed= peak 424 deg. one open = 407 deg two open = 396 deg.
..120 kts closed= peak 416 deg. one open = 397 deg two open = 387 deg.
The outside air temperature here in So Cal was a hot and muggy high 80s during the tests. Everything full foreword, at 2,750 rpm working the engine as hard as possible. None of this is chiseled in stone, and others results may vary. As a reference point, this was what I saw and was very repeatable for me. I didn't notice any speed penalty at these low speeds but did see about three kts reduction at 180 kts after opening both cowl flaps and letting it all settle down. Thanks, Allan...
...We received many e-mails and phone calls asking for information as to the difference in climb temperatures we encountered on climb outs. I am very reluctant to say this will do "this" when it comes to temperature problems as the root causes can be any number of, or a combination of several things. That being said, I went out this last weekend to do some testing with temperature being the only parameter looked at. With the engine fully warmed up, I performed nine climbs to altitude, at three different climb speeds, 80 kts, 100 kts and 120 kts all starting at 1,500' and terminating at 8,500'. Each speed first with EZ Cool flaps closed, then with one open, then with both open. The results were as follows;
....80 kts closed= peak 430 deg. one open = 419 deg two open = 407 deg.
..100 kts closed= peak 424 deg. one open = 407 deg two open = 396 deg.
..120 kts closed= peak 416 deg. one open = 397 deg two open = 387 deg.
The outside air temperature here in So Cal was a hot and muggy high 80s during the tests. Everything full foreword, at 2,750 rpm working the engine as hard as possible. None of this is chiseled in stone, and others results may vary. As a reference point, this was what I saw and was very repeatable for me. I didn't notice any speed penalty at these low speeds but did see about three kts reduction at 180 kts after opening both cowl flaps and letting it all settle down. Thanks, Allan...
