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DSub crimper - MH860 a better option?

unitink72

Well Known Member
I'm a long ways away from electrics, but doing some research while between kits.

For crimping d-subs, the AFM8 handles 20-32 gauge. The MH860 handles a more useful range 16-28 gauge, thus might be usable for more things. I figure as long as I'm spending that much of a tool, I want it to be as capable as possible.

It appears from the Daniels document that MH860 uses different positioners.

Anyone know why the AFM8 is more popular amoung the homebuilders crowd, or why the MH860 would be a less desirable choice?

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I have the afm8 and really like it. It’s more flexible than the less expensive crimpers because of the availability of positioners for all kinds of pins types.

I don’t have any experience with the othe Daniels crimped you asked about. I suspect the answer is that most people don’t have a requirement for the gauges that the afm8 can’t do.

I took me a few months, but I was able to find the afm8 and the positioners I need on eBay for about half of retail pricing.
 
Do yourself a favor and call Steinair and either talk to Stein himself (since he often answers the phone himself) or any of his other techs about the tools you need.

As for your question about which particular crimper to use for D-Sub pins, no other tool will work as well as this one:
http://www.steinair.com/product/4-way-indent-crimper/

A fantastic crimper. Wired my RV-10 Garmin panel with one and sold it when I sold the plane. Bought another one for the RV-9A.
 
As for your question about which particular crimper to use for D-Sub pins, no other tool will work as well as this one:
http://www.steinair.com/product/4-way-indent-crimper/

Actually Steve, the AFM8 will do a better job on both standard and miniature D-Subs, and if you do a LOT of them, it makes a big difference. I have both, but haven't touched my red one since I bought a used AFM8....from Stein.

Certainly, however, the red one is adequate for the average homebuilder who isn't doing lots of panels.
 
Actually Steve, the AFM8 will do a better job on both standard and miniature D-Subs, and if you do a LOT of them, it makes a big difference. I have both, but haven't touched my red one since I bought a used AFM8....from Stein.

Certainly, however, the red one is adequate for the average homebuilder who isn't doing lots of panels.

Can you clarify this? Are you saying one makes "adequate" crimps, the other makes "superior"crimps? Or is it that one is move forgiving of operator error? Or one is easier and faster to use?
 
Can you clarify this? Are you saying one makes "adequate" crimps, the other makes "superior"crimps? Or is it that one is move forgiving of operator error? Or one is easier and faster to use?

The AFM8 has an adjustable crimp so it will make more consistent crimps by all users. The AFM8 has rounded edges on the 4 crimp jaws and the $40 tool does not. I have both and after trying 5 of each just used the AFM8 for the remainder of my build.

BTW the OP's question, the MH860 is just like the AFM8 but increased wire size range.

reference

Edit: Specifically, the adjustable crimp limits the compression of the terminal based on the wire size setting with the AFM8, the other tool is by feel.
 
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The AFM8 has an adjustable crimp so it will make more consistent crimps by all users. The AFM8 has rounded edges on the 4 crimp jaws and the $40 tool does not.


The adjustability is used with different wire sizes ... The 20 AWG pins typical on standard density D-sub connectors have a max wire size of 20 AWG, but can also be used with 22 and 24 AWG .. the AFM8 has an adjustable crimp depth to get an optimal "grab" on the wire.

BTW, in addition to Daniels, Astro Tool also makes these mil-spec crimpers (this is what I have; M22520/2-10). If you're hunting e-bay, be sure to look for Astro Tool as well ... might give you more discount buying options. Great tools!
 
Actually Steve, the AFM8 will do a better job on both standard and miniature D-Subs, and if you do a LOT of them, it makes a big difference. I have both, but haven't touched my red one since I bought a used AFM8....from Stein.

Certainly, however, the red one is adequate for the average homebuilder who isn't doing lots of panels.
Paul,
I appreciate the perspective but I do believe that for us simple average builders the cost difference vs quality of crimp difference is not a big enough difference to justify the added expense. If money is not a problem by all means pay the price. However, for the typical builder, the quality of the crimper I mentioned is more than adequate.
 
My cheap little red crimper did eventually fail after doing an entire RV-6A Skyview and dual radio harness.

The failure was pretty easy to spot, one of the four internal crimping "prongs" had broken off and disappeared.

A visual check every so often when you close the prongs with no contact in the tool is probably a good idea. :)

The one that broke did not come from Stein, but looked identical. The replacement came from Stein. I still think it is an easy to use, cost-effective tool.
 
I imagine the AFM8 crimper will make superior crimps - if by no other metric than its price. If you can get one within your budget, I’d definitely go for it.

That said, I’m on my forth complete panel with the budget crimper from Stein - handling both standard and high density pins. The last two panels were all glass IFR with all the requisite components.

I’m all for getting the best tool for the job. I’m also a pragmatist. You can do a very good job [better than adequate*] without spending a ton of money.

* I’m not taking offense with Ironflight. I just think the word “adequate” may give some builders the impression it’s marginal. Perhaps all those years with NASA has given Paul a more tempered vocabulary. ;)
 
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Not sure why the AFM8 is more popular, but either that or the MH860 will be fine. I started with an AF8 since I already had one, then learned I couldn't crimp the mini d-sub pins. However, the open position of the AF8 is a bigger stretch of the hand which gets tiring, so I do prefer the smaller tool for d-subs; the MH860 is in between, but I don't have any experience with it (wish I had one....). Looks like the same number and equivalent price for the required positioners, so I'd say up to you. FWIW I can crimp up to 12ga with the AF8, but have only done as large as 14, as the pins and connectors for that size wire and current get pretty expensive. For the few 12 ga wires I used the ring/spade/butt terminals/splices. For all my insulated terminals I used a DMC HX4 for crimping (also already had one from doing coax connectors) with the Y501 dies.

Also not sure if this makes price sense (depends on what you can find used) but Daniels will refurbish the tool for around $120 and it will operate like new.

==dave==
N102FM
 
Eclipse Crimp Photo

I tested out the new Eclipse D-Sub crimper I just got. To be fair, although this is the same crimper manufacturer Stein sell's, I got this one off Amazon and there are several different distributors there to choose from. They are available for different wire gauges also. The photo shows that the crimped pin on the left put the crimp at the end of the wire barrel as the crimper was received. I took about .040" off the shoulder of the position-er insert with the lathe to get it where I wanted as shown on the right pin. I did not have this issue with my old Eclipse crimper from Steinair.
39538796951_f6d72578c5_z.jpg
[/url]DSC01995 by David C, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
Crimper comparisons

I have all three mentioned crimpers; the AFM8, MH860, and the inexpensive non-adjustable crimper from Stein. Both the AFM8 and MH860 are much higher quality. When crimping large or very small wires with the non-adjustable crimper, you can tell the difference, but the tool seems very adequate especially for a small job or DIY project.

Currently, I only use the AFM8 and MH860. I have one tool configured for the high density Dsub pins and the other for the low density pins.

As mentioned, finding the positioners for the MH860 can be a little more challenging, but they are out there. At one point, the MH860 was selling for significantly cheaper than the AFM8 on Ebay.
 
Just be aware that though they are the "same" tool, before we ship them we take them apart, throw the positioner on a lathe (as noted by the customers own modification below) and slightly alter it to do a better job. I'm not aware of any other resellers of that tool who modify the insert for more reliable crimps. Yes, the tool is typical import quality and the Daniels is absolutely top/pro grade, the cheapo tool works for many folks much of the time...though it will wear out for sure.

Lastly note, that for high density pins, we also custom machine a separate completely different insert which positions the pins in a more proper way (you end up with two inserts, both modified or created by us) for the same crimper handle/frame.

Cheers,
Stein

I tested out the new Eclipse D-Sub crimper I just got. To be fair, although this is the same crimper manufacturer Stein sell's, I got this one off Amazon and there are several different distributors there to choose from. They are available for different wire gauges also. The photo shows that the crimped pin on the left put the crimp at the end of the wire barrel as the crimper was received. I took about .040" off the shoulder of the position-er insert with the lathe to get it where I wanted as shown on the right pin. I did not have this issue with my old Eclipse crimper from Steinair.
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Close the loop

I ended up finding a MH860 on the big auction site, new in an opened box for $90. Quite a good deal I think. Took some patience but it payed off. This tool is really solid, very high quality.

I'm finding (as others have said) the positioners aren't as prevalent as the AFM8. No biggie, I won't need them for a while and gives me time to shop.
 
Hi All,
Looking at the Daniels crimpers, the MH860 seems a better option for me given its AWG and pin crimp size range. I have however had trouble finding what positioners are necessary for it if I want to crimp the standard and high density D sub connectors. I'm basically looking for the equivalent of the K41, K42 and K13-1 positioners that you would use with the AFM8 tool, but for the MH860.
Looking at their catalogue, as far as I can see, this doesn't seem to be spelt out (see page 7).
https://www.dmctools.com/_pdf/Catalogs/ConnectorToolingGuide.pdf
Does anyone know what positioners should be purchased for the D sub connectors?

Regards,

Tom.
 
The way to find the correct positioner is to use the contact numeric designation (or use the color code) - I always go to Stein's site to look those up. Then on this page

https://www.dmctools.com/store/catalog.asp

go to the advanced search box on the left side, "MS39029 Connector and Contact Cross Reference." Here's what I came up with for the MH860:

Dsub pin 64-369 86-30-1
Dsub socket 63-368 86-30-1
HD Dsub pin 58-360 86-6
HD Dsub socket 57-354 86-5

It also shows positioners for other crimpers that will work for that connector.
The formatting didn't work out so well; so the positioners you need are 86-30-1 for standard DSub pins and sockets, and an 86-5 for the high density sockets and 86-6 for the hd pins. Hope that helps.

==dave==
N102FM
 
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