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  #1  
Old 11-01-2016, 10:45 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
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Location: Ooltewah, TN.
Posts: 548
Default RV-7 Lynn Dixon #74286

After a few years of lurking, and reading I finally started on my RV-7!

I have wanted to build a kit plane for a long time, even so far back as nearly 20 years ago before I could even buy adult beverages or cast a vote. I was saving up to buy a Challenger II. But then college and life happened and chipped away at my Kit plane savings.

Fast forward to now and I finally have a place to build comfortably, some disposable income and a supportive wife, who oddly enough doesn't think I am crazy for wanting to build my own plane. Heck, she may even fly in it with me

I bought my toolkit from a fellow on the forums, and its a complete Isham kit with a few additions. They were essentially brand new tools and a good price! That was my first official step and first major purchase towards the airplane.

Shortly later, I was browsing the forums and posted a WTB in the classifieds looking or a tail kit. To my surprise, another builder was selling a RV-7 tail kit, that had never been started, which was exactly what I was wanting! A few emails and a paypal later, the tail kit was on its way to me.....where it sat in my basement for nearly two years. I spent some time working on practice kits, taking the EAA RV-7 course, and getting my shop organized. I am starting the build in the basement of my house, since the backside of the basement opens up to ground level (house is one a hill). Its unfinished, but insulated and I setup an HVAC duct to help knock the chill out in the winter and heat out in the summer. Its very comfy down there, with plenty of natural light as well as some shop lights I installed.

So, lets get started with some log entries! I have spent about 3 days so far, and I'll put a few posts in here to represent those builds. I'll also try to use this as a way to collaborate with all the other VAF builders out there and build off their collective knowledge.

WOOT! This post made the front page on November 2nd 2016
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017

Last edited by CubedRoot : 11-02-2016 at 10:39 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2016, 10:46 PM
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Default

<---Reserving this post to put future ideas and tidbits in as I go along.

Nav / Strobe Lights: http://flyleds.com/

Longeron Dies: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...light=longeron

Brake pedal mod (Long bolt, instead of two short bolts): http://www.europa.com/~swayze/RV-7A/.../20090810.html

Panel Design software: http://www.xpanelsoftware.com/Templa...eProducts.aspx

Rib bending tool: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=51247

Dynon Canopy open indicator: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...=1#post1132251

Tuning a Bob Archer Antenna: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...56&postcount=7
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017

Last edited by CubedRoot : 12-08-2016 at 08:27 AM.
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  #3  
Old 11-01-2016, 11:26 PM
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Post October 27th, 2016 2.5 hours

Like every journey starting with the first footstep, I started my journey on the rear spar, like so many others who have gone this way before me.

I worked a solid 2.5 hours tonight. I didn't want to push myself to do to much in my first session, and really wanted to just dig in and start cleco-ing stuff together to help motivate me.

Tonight I completed all the steps for the "Rear Spar" section of the first page on the plans. I found that using my bench grinder with a course wheel made quick work of the thick HS-609PP reinforcement bars. I had to break the edges and then taper the ends off. I rough outlines my shape with a sharpie and used the course wheel to work the metal down to the marks. Once i was happy with the rough shape, I used my file and the scotchbrite wheel to smooth the edges. I really like that scotchbrite wheel, its a great tool.

I am leaving the flat surfaces unfinished for right now, so I highlighted that step in my plans so i don't miss it. I am going to prime the interior sections with AKZO, and I am going to try to consolidate all my priming so I will leave the surface as is, until priming day.

I made sure to mark that 8th hole on each side where HS-708 will attach so as to not rivet it by accident.

Then I moved on to building the HS-411PP bearing assembly. I actually picked up a good trick from George Ordorffs videos of drilling the VA-146 bearing assembly. I clamped HS-411APP and HS-411-BPP together using cleco clamps. The I clecod those two down to a 2x4 block. I used BPP as a drill guide for APP and clecod to stabilize as I worked my way round. Once it was done, I test fit VA-146 between them and it fit beautifully. Deburr'ed the holes, and then sprayed VA-146 with some rattle can self-etching primer after I gave it a good roughing and cleaning. I will let it sit overnight to dry before riveting this assembly together.

Here is a link to the photos from tonights work: https://goo.gl/photos/Pk6pCY4hnbneTEA17
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017
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  #4  
Old 11-02-2016, 05:38 AM
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Bob Martin Bob Martin is offline
 
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Location: Richmond, Virginia
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Default good Start

Good Start Lynn,
Nice pictures too.
Keep pounding those rivets, it is worth it!
Congrats on starting.
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Bob Martin
RV-6, 0-360 Hartzell C/S, Tip up, 1150+TT
James extended cowl/plenum, induction, -8VS and Rudder. TSFlightline hoses. Oregon Aero leather seats.
D100-KMD150-660-TT ADI2- AS air/oil seperator. Vetterman exhaust with turndown tips.
Louisa, Virginia KLKU N94TB
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2016, 09:39 PM
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Default October 29th, 2016. 3.5 hours

Today I started the "Front Spar Assembly" of the tail kit. After feeling good about the rear spar, I figured this would be just as easy. That wasn't the case.

I spent much of my time just looking at the planes and holding parts together to visualize what was needing to happen. 3.5 hours of work later and I didn't really have much accomplished on my bench. I separated the doubler plates and cleaned their edges. This was required by Vans Service Bulletin 14-01-31. My kit came with these parts already which was nice.

I also measured and marked the bend lines for the spar itself, but will wait untl the next session before bending. I want to make sure all is correct before I proceed, and I have fresh clear mind. Thats all for today, 3.5 hours of fiddling around.


Here are the photos from the nights work: https://goo.gl/photos/PVqvHELHftMQZQ7A7
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2016, 10:26 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
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Default October 30th, 2015. 4.5 hours

After reading over the plans and instructions last night I decided to get to work today with a clear mind. I completed the Front Spar Assembly section of the empennage section with the exception of deburring, dimpling and priming. I am going to combine as many of the parts as I can and complete these together to save setup time in my priming booth. There is no riveting to be done at this point anyways, so it will work out perfectly.

I cleco'd HS-710 and HS714 to the HS-702 spar channels and marked the lines for center line and the bend lines per the plans. Then it was time to do a little fabricating on the spar channel. I cut off the flanges of the spar channel inboard of the bend lines and smoothed the edges. Then I drilled the relief holes and enlarged it to 1/4 on the channels. I only trimmed the angle back just a bit for now until I could measure and cut after the bend was made.

Then I bent the HS-702 spar channels to the exact 6 degrees using my hand seamer and a protractor. They turned out nicely. From there, I re-clecod the HS-710 and HS-714 so I could match drill everything inboard of the bend lines and rib attachment holes.

Next I tapered the ends of HS-710 and HS-714 per the detail section of the plans. I used my bench grinder on this part to make it easier. I marked the lines a bit large so I didn't over-grind anything. Once I got a taper that I liked, I polished the edges off with the scotchbrite wheel so I wouldn't scratch the spars or my hands. I will finish them off better once I get ready to prime everything. I left some notes in my plans to do this. After the taper was set for them, I measured for my bend lines and then bent them using a vise to the 6 degree angle per my protractor. While the tapers may not be as beautifully done as the pros, I hope they will be OK. They meet the edge distance requirements with some meat left, and they taper nicely along the spar channels and the edges are broken clean. I think thats the only requirements for this to be a safe part. I may ask the folks in the RV-7 sub just to make sure, since I can always trim them down more if I need to before priming.

I am still a bit confused as to how the HS-00001 doublers go into place, but I will read the SB some more and try cleco'ing everything together and lining them up before final prep and assembly. I left a note in my plans to come back to this.

Then I moved on to the last step and that was to countersink the holes needed on the front spar HS-702, HS-710 and HS-714. The plans state that the inner 4 holes must be countersunk from with the flush head facing aft. So, I setup my countersink cage using some scrap and a AN4264-4 rivet to get it at the perfect depth. Then I drilled the 2 center holes on each the HS-710 and HS-714 angle support bars. I used my DRDT-2 dimpler to dimple the light metal of the spar channel then test fit everything back together with clecos. They dimpled parts nestle together very nicely with no gaps. I was happy to close out the front spar assembly section with these results!

Some last few steps: After letting VS-146 dry, I noticed I was a bit light on my primer and missed the bearing housing a little. So I gave it a second light coat with the part on an angle to cover the sides of the bearing housing. I'll let it dry overnight before assembling it.

The next section of the plans was "preparing the ribs" which was really only two easy little steps, so I figured I would go ahead and knock it out while I was in the mood. I fired up some Blackberry Smoke to listen to, and prepped some metal!

I trimmed both HS-00006 parts making sure to take note of left / right orientation and then marking accordingly. If you are reading this and are on this step, make sure you double check the orientation on the plans!!! After smoothing out the edges I moved on to the others.

I picked parts (2 each) HS-00005, HS-706, HS-707, and HS-708 from their shelves and removed the blue plastic from them. I have read leaving the blue plastic on parts that will be mated together is not a good thing because it affects your measurements. These are all internal parts that I am going to be scuffing and priming anyways so it wasnt needed anymore. I used a 90 degree straight edge combination square to make sure all the flanges of each part were at a true 90 degrees. Some were pretty good, others needed a little tweaking with my edge seamer. Then I moved on to fluting the parts. These parts are fairly complex punched parts and due to the nature of press punched parts sometimes they are "warped" as slight degree. I laid them on my bench (both sides of them) to check their flatness. If any were not flat, I would make a couple of flutes and re-check, repeating the process until they were laying flat and true. Once I had a part trued and flat I marked its part number in sharpie and laid it back on the shelf. Some parts only needed 1 or 2 flutes, others needed more. I was happy with how they turned out. I will leave the deburring, edge finishing and scuffing until I get ready to bundle all the parts together and prime them.

Here are the photos from tonights work: https://goo.gl/photos/o96i7MN8sSrisw2H7
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017
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  #7  
Old 11-16-2016, 09:50 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
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Default November 16th, 2016. 3 hours

Tonight I mainly focused on metal prep on the vertical stabilizer. I disassembled the stab, and then deburred all the holes. Then I marked which holes on the VS-808PP doubler and VS-803PP rear spar that needed to be countersunk / dimpled. I used my DRDT-2 dimpler to set the dimples in the VS-803PP, and then used a micro-stop countersink cage to machine countersink the holes for in the spar doubler. After a few test fits to make sure those two parts fit flush with each other, I moved on. It came out pretty good:




I then removed some strips from the rivet lines on the skins so I could deburr the skin, as well as removing all the remaining plastic from the other parts. I also finished the edges of all the lightening holes in the ribs and doublers. Tomorrow I will work on finishing the edges of all the pieces and then dimpling the skeleton, then it will be ready for cleaning and priming this weekend.



Not a lot of photos, since there really wasn't much to take photos of, but here's the photos from tonight work: https://goo.gl/photos/Ah54BATLQMPghYVg7
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017
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  #8  
Old 11-20-2016, 08:52 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
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Default November 20th, 2016. 5.25 hours

Today was priming day! The weekend is about the only time I have available where I can get priming done. I am spraying the parts outside to keep fumes out of the house, so I am at the mercy of good daylight. Yesterday I my Shriners unit had a parade, so I drove my little parade car in it, and didn't get home in time to work so today was my work day.

I have the entirety of my horizontal and vertical stabilizers to prime today, and I got started around noon. I first scuffed down all my parts using a maroon scotchbrite pad. My goal was to only remove ay aluminum oxide that may have formed, while also giving the AKZO some tooth to bite into. I did not want to remove the alclad, as I have decided to leave it on the aluminum as an additional layer of corrision protection. The AKZO will be my primary barrier, while the Alclad will serve as a secondary. I also realized that the dimples tend to eat up a scotchbrite pad, so I may start leaving my dimpling duties until after I have primed, this might make scuffing easier and less abusive on the pads.

After I had all my parts scuffed up, it was time to clean them off. My chosen method is to use acetone. This will get rid of any chemicals and oils on the parts and give the primer a good clean surface. I first started by wiping the parts down with a dry micro-fiber cloth, the goal here is to remove any of the dust left from the scuffing.

Then I used paper towels and acetone to clean the parts completely, until nothing was being left on the paper towel. The skins were a little tricky because they had the red ink from the aluminum company, so I wiped it off with acetone first to keep it from smearing across the parts This made it a little easier to clean.
Here's a glimpse of a skin scuffed, cleaned and ready for primer:


Next step was to mix up my AKZO and give it the 30 minute induction time. I took a rough guess and figured a total of 8 ounces should be plenty for these parts. I shook the **** out of each of the AKZO cans, mixed them up with a paint stir, and poured 4 equal parts of "Part A" and "Part B" into my PPS cup. I learned that pouring the clear hardener (part b) first makes it much easier to see the ratio lines on the PPS cups. Here's my primer chilling out in the cup, inducting:


While the AKZO was inducting, I moved my parts outside and onto my spray table. Unfortunately, I had more parts than I had table so I used some old cardboard boxes for the others. I figured I would start flange up on the boxes, so when I flipped them over the flanges would hold my freshly painted surface off the cardboard and not smear it. It worked out pretty good.



Eventually I had all of my parts sprayed, and looking great. This stuff goes on really easily, and dries fast. I am also happy that you don't have to hussle to spray whats in your cup because you have a pretty long working time in your cup. Now, I will admit, my skins have some uneven spots where some areas was sprayed heavier than others, but my main concern was to make sure my skins had adequate coverage. I am not trying to get a show-room quality paint job since the only people seeing this will be me and the inspector. As long as there is good coverage, the AKZO will do its job preventing corrosion. I also had a few small runs on some of the parts, but again, I am not going to worry about them unless the run causes some assembly interference.

I had a few small places on some of my parts that I had to spray again to get good coverage, but I had plenty of AKZO in my gun so I didn't have to mix any up. The 8 ounces (I think the PPS cups are measured in ounces) ending up being just about the right amount, I had good coverage on my skins and parts, and had a little left over to touch up the areas that I missed. After it was all done, I had probably .25 ounce in the bottom of my cup, very very little. I ran some acetone through the gun's gravity feed and then moved the parts from outside onto my work tables to they can finish drying. They turned out really nicely!



I'll let these things harden overnight, and probably start assembling them all together tomorrow or Tuesday night. This green color will look nice against the white/grey hinge brackets and gold colored rivets.

And always, here is a complete album of tonights photos: https://goo.gl/photos/X5mgorU1X4jzY4tE9
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017
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  #9  
Old 11-24-2016, 01:13 AM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
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Default November 23rd, 2016. 4 hours

Tonight its time to rivet some parts together. The primer has been sitting a few days while I spent time with my wife and daughter these past few days, but I had some time tonight to work.

I started out by sorting my parts into the proper "piles". Left / right horizontal stabilizer, vertical stabilizer, front / rear spar, etc. Then I picked up where I left off in the plans for the horizontal stabilizers. This section is the last one, titled "Riveting the horizontal stabilizer".

I first started out by locating and taping up the holes for HS-706, HS-708 and HS-00005 as well as HS-412PP hinge brackets. These holes don't get rivets just yet, so the tape will keep me from sticking one in there. Then I assembled the HS-609PP bars to the HS-603 rear spar channels, cleco'ing every other hole while ignoring the taped up holes.

Then I used AN470AD4-6 rivets to attach the bars to the spar. I used my squeezer to set these rivets. Once I got the first batch set, I removed the clecos and riveted the remainder. I did mess up on one rivet, and flinched the squeezer right as it compressed the rivet, causing it to mess up the manufactured head:


So, I figued now is as good as time as any to drill it out and fix it. I took my time, and used a #40 drill and slowly drilled the head off, then broke it off with a punch. The just used the punch to push out the shop head. The hole wasn't damaged and it look good, so I stuck in a fresh rivet and re-squeezed it with great results:




Next up was to rivet on the hinge bracket, HS-412PP and HS-413PP to the rear spar. At first, when I inserted the rivet called for, AN470AD4-5, it seemed a little long, but a quick search of this forum returned that this is normal, and thats indeed the correct size. So I squeezed them with my squeezer and they turned out good.



Somehow I managed to damage the shop head on one of my HS-412PP hinge brackets. It has a small dent in the top of the shop head, and I am not sure if I should drill it out or if its OK as is. I am going to ask the forum to get advice. It's easy enough to get to as-is, so I can drill it out with no troubles if need be. Here is what it looks like:


It looks like my squeezer set was offset a little on the shop head, and the lip bit into the rivet. We'll see what everyone says is the best route to take.
Here is the link to the thread where I asked everyone: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...20#post1129120

Next I pulled out the bolts, washers and nuts for the HS-411PP center bearing to bolt it to the spar. I have a decent craftsman torque wrench but I am not sure what torque to use. Nor am I sure which side the washer should go on, bolt head or nut side? So, I just fingered tightened them for now, and will ask the forum for advice.
Here is the link to the thread where I asked this question: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...19#post1129119

So that was all I accomplished tonight. I have two "pending" items from this work session, that I am waiting on advice for.
1. Should I drill out that rivet in the hinge bracket
2. What torque do I need to use, and which way do the washers go for the HS-411PP center bearing.

Here is a link to tonights photos: https://goo.gl/photos/BGhzL2yD4LqPLxhD6
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017

Last edited by CubedRoot : 11-24-2016 at 01:42 AM.
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  #10  
Old 12-03-2016, 12:06 AM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
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Default December 2nd, 2016. 1.5 Hours

Tonight I spent about 1.5 hours on riveting the right horizontal stabilizer. I am very close to getting these skins riveted on, and almost to the point of attaching the rear spar. I have decided to wait on attaching the rear spar until I can get an EAA Tech Counselor out to take a look at my work to see if I am on the right track, and that my rivets are looking OK.

I started this work session off my attaching HS-708 center rib, to HS-702 front spar and HS-707 nose rib using LP4-3 blind rivets. From doing this on the left side, I knew it was going to be tight, so I took my time and got them set. My hands were almost to large to work the pop rivet gun in that little space!



Next up was to rivet in the AN470AD4-4 rivets that attach the HS-706 end rib to the HS-702 front spar. These rivets set OK, but I did let the rivet gun jump a little and scratch my primer. Luckily it didnít do any damage to the end rib other than cosmetic primer.



Then it was time to do the bulk of the work: Riveting HS-601pp to HS-702 and HS-708. Like on the left stab, I worked from the center outward to eliminate any oil-canning, and made sure to insert the single AN426AD3-4 rivet into the hole where HS-601pp (skin), HS-702 and Hs-708 meet. Once that guy was set, the rest of the rivets were AN426AD3-3.5. This turned out pretty well, and I didnít have any dishing or denting. I also checked the rivets with a rivet gauge to make sure they were set correctly. I am finding that my ďearĒ is getting used to the sound of a correctly set rivet, and I am getting them at the perfect depth almost every time. Here is how the skin turned out:



I completed the whole bottom side of the right stab skin tonight. After setting those rivets, my left arm was pretty beat from holding that bucking bar, so I decided it best to quite for the night before I messed up that pretty skin. I will finish up the top side tomorrow, and that will have the skins riveted, save for the HS-00005, HS-00006 ribs and rear spar, which I will hold off on so that the Tech Counselor will be able to look inside the stabís to inspect.

Hereís all the photos from tonights work: https://goo.gl/photos/k3pWa5Hoduz2MCyf7

Hours Worked: 1.5
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
Wing Kit Started - June 2017
My Build Log: http://www.theskunkwerx.com

VAF Donation paid for 2017
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