draining fuel tank

I need to remove the right tank to repair the vent line. What is the best way to remove the fuel. It is full. The left tank is approximately 2/3 full.

I just drained the tank on my 7-A by removing the fitting for the sump and drained it into 5 gallon cans.

Phil

Ha that's an easy one. My method is. Fly till the tank runs dry switch to other and land. Pull tank. No brainer.

phil_101_99 said:

I just drained the tank on my 7-A by removing the fitting for the sump and drained it into 5 gallon cans.

Phil

Click to expand...

A length of bare wire clipped to a metal part of the RV with the other end dropped into the bottom of the plastic should reduce the possibility of static spark discharge.

When I was calibrating my tank floats, I got some hardware store pipe nipples the same thread size as the tank drain, a quarter turn valve and a length of rubber hose to allow be to de-fuel into 5 gallon containers. There was still a splash of fuel when removing the drain and installing the pipe/valve/hose assembly. Be wary of static discharge.

Listen to Sam. Airplanes and hangars have burned.

Electrically tie the airframe, funnel, and fuel in the jug, then ground them. Can't spark if they are all at the same potential.

I use a metal funnel with the appropriate wires and alligator clips permanently attached.

Ground

Dan
What ground is best? Hangar frame I-beam steel?
There isn't a ground rod nearby in my hangar.

wirejock said:

Dan
What ground is best? Hangar frame I-beam steel?
There isn't a ground rod nearby in my hangar.

Click to expand...

I think that's fine. The ground is a plus. The important thing is to ensure the same potential for the airframe, fuel/jug, and funnel. The fuel is picking up a static charge as it falls through the air. If it builds enough, it will discharge. Tie all the components together and it can't build.

been mentioned on VAF before, use the Chinese siphon hose with that wiggly ball, works good.
Bought mine at the KOSH fly market 20 years ago, still works good

The best way to empty a tank is to go FLY!

Jim, if you need gas cans, I have 6 in my hangar. Used them recently to drain and recalibrate another RV. I'll be around all day tomorrow.

DanH said:

I think that's fine. The ground is a plus. The important thing is to ensure the same potential for the airframe, fuel/jug, and funnel. The fuel is picking up a static charge as it falls through the air. If it builds enough, it will discharge. Tie all the components together and it can't build.

Click to expand...

Personal experience.
I was draining the tank on a Piper Cherokee, had a 5 gallon can set on top of a plastic milk crate with a large, metal, funnel in the can. The fuel drain petcock was open and a full stream of gas was flowing into the funnel.
After a few minutes, I approached the airplane to shut the fuel off and remove the can. When I bent over and touched the wing, I heard a slight snap, look down
and saw a perfect blue flame flowing up the sides of the funnel, a full stream of gas was still flowing into the funnel.
What to do? I didn't dare to touch anything in fear of causing the flame to ignite the fuel as the flame was getting larger and proceeding up the sides of the funnel.
I took a huge breath, bent over and blew the flame out! sat down on the floor, my knees were shaking so bad, I could not stand up.
In retrospect, GROUND EVERYTHING. as Dan suggest, I still get cold chills thinking about this, happened 20 years ago.
DIck

i went into my hangars breaker box and tied into the ground that protects the box. i know that is a good ground. a pigtail hangs out the box that i use whenever i need grounding.

i forgot to mention in previous post that the pigtail terminates as the female end of a conventional extension cord. using another extension cord is an easy and reliable way to provide a ground anywhere in the vicinity. all my grounding ''stuff'' at the hangar is compatible with this.