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proseal mixing

jhearnsberger

jhearnsberger

Active Member
Ok, I am down to the point where I am going to seal up the trailing edge of the elevators and rudder. I have done a little research on using proseal, but still need help.

I have one 3.5oz tube without dispensing gun and 2 quarts of proseal. I was thinking of attempting to mix the 3.5oz tube and squeeze it out somehow so it won't be wasted.

The syringe method sounds like a good idea. Although, the plastic bag method probably works well too.

Say I have some left over in the tube or in the syringe...... How long will it last once mixed if it is stored in a refrigerator or freezer? I have not read the mixing instructions yet for the quart kits.

- Jake
 
Proseal

You should plan to use any mixed Proseal as soon as possible. The hardening time may be extended a short time by putting it in the fridge, but we're talking hours at most, not days, once it's been mixed.

The quart kit is intended to be mixed in a 10:1 ratio by weight and will provide a two hr working time at room temp once mixed.

The 3.5 oz tube is designed to provide only a 30 min working time at room temp once mixed.

Having said that, the shelf life of unmixed Proseal can be extended by several months if you keep it in the fridge.

Proseal is mixed by weight; I purchased a postal scale at an office store and use a smooth ceramic tile as the mixing surface. Put the tile on the scale, hit the "Tare" button to zero the scale and then add Proseal and hardener per the instructions (normally a 10:1 ratio by weight).

Tongue depressor sticks work well for scooping Proseal out of the can, and ice cream bar-size sticks work well for dispensing the hardener. Lots of disposable gloves!

Cleanup of the tile is easy: just let the Proseal harden, then scrape/peel off with a razorblade scraper. Wipe with MEK and it looks new again.

Good luck,
Mike
 
Transporter said:
You should plan to use any mixed Proseal as soon as possible. The hardening time may be extended a short time by putting it in the fridge, but we're talking hours at most, not days, once it's been mixed.

The quart kit is intended to be mixed in a 10:1 ratio by weight and will provide a two hr working time at room temp once mixed.

The 3.5 oz tube is designed to provide only a 30 min working time at room temp once mixed.

Having said that, the shelf life of unmixed Proseal can be extended by several months if you keep it in the fridge.

Proseal is mixed by weight; I purchased a postal scale at an office store and use a smooth ceramic tile as the mixing surface. Put the tile on the scale, hit the "Tare" button to zero the scale and then add Proseal and hardener per the instructions (normally a 10:1 ratio by weight).

Mike
Click to expand...

Just a quick note, tubes and quarts are both available in B 1/6, B 1/2 and B 2 generally. B1/6=10 min, B1/2=30, B2=2hrs so check to see what you have.

If you have a freezer that will go to -40 you can store mixed sealant for about 30 days.
 
The tube is the b1/2. I have freezers that are 0 to 10 below, but not 40 below.

What size syringes do I need? I am going to pick some up from the vet today.
 
I may just trash the tube and use the quart. Just so I will start out on the right foot. I have a good digital postal scale I can use.

So just to clarify.... if I put .10 lb of part A, I would add .01 of part B to make .11 lb?
 
Mixing

I'd keep the tube if the date is still good...they work well for smaller projects.

You've got the right idea regarding the ratio. As a double check: the Proseal will be dark gray when properly mixed. No black or light streaks anywhere...keep mixing until they go away.

Should also mention: loosely wrap your scale in plastic wrap...makes cleanup easy and you can hit the buttons without worrying about Proseal on a fingertip.

I didn't use the syringe technique, just an ice cream stick..so can't advise on sizes.

Good luck,
Mike
 
Thank you.

Great! Thank you for your input. I can't wait to get started this evening. I bet it's not as bad as everyone makes it out to be. My wing kit ships out today! :) I need to get practiced up for the fuel tanks.

I will hang on to the tube for small projects.

- Jake
 
jhearnsberger said:
I may just trash the tube and use the quart. Just so I will start out on the right foot. I have a good digital postal scale I can use.

So just to clarify.... if I put .10 lb of part A, I would add .01 of part B to make .11 lb?
Click to expand...


You can mix the tube manually and just use a stick to push the proseal out onto another surface for application. I had the applicator gun, which does make using the tubes a little easier.

For the tail feathers the tubes are nice because you really don't need much proseal. If you get the quart now, it may not be totally effective when it gets time for you tanks. Building the tanks is not a step when you want to gamble if the proseal is still good.

If you watch how you apply the proseal and are really neat, you can probably get by with just a quart. I probably cleaned off more than stayed applied and when through about a quart and half by the time my tanks were done.

You are looking at probably 6-12 months before you build your wings and you'll need proseal again. My advice is to just get enough to finish the tail now and buy a quart when you're ready to start you wings.

Yes, your assumption is correct. While measuring weight is the most accurate method, you'll find that you'll soon become an expert and eyeballing the mixed color to determine the ratios. By the time the tanks are done, you'll be a proseal expert.

bob
 
It will last 4 days

if put directly in 0F freezer after mixing. I am not doing that with my tanks...just mixing it as needed. I will use almost 2 qts PRC proseal from Spruce for both tanks (has different smell, consistency and dries quicker than Flamemaster- same controlled shop conditions/digital gram scale). Tried 60cc syringe...ended up just mixing in non waxed cups/tongue depressors/acid brushes. Thinned with about 5% toluene(by wt, max= 15%) to brush on after ribs were installed. Toluene evaporates fast so it returns to its original thick state after about 20 minutes. I only masked off the splice strip overlap area on outboard end of tanks. Nobody is going to see inside my tanks. Not a place I want to have to reenter to repair leaks once the rear baffles are installed next week. I am also applying PRC Buna-N tank slosh compound PR-1005-L from Spruce to all prosealed areas. Used 150 pairs of gloves between the wife and I. Used scotchbrite/mek for pre cleaning and mek for cleanup of tools. Did not cover work bench...kinda like the proseal splotches. Still wearing off some that got on my arms. Will never get it out of some clothes. Good memories for down the road. Have fun! Glad to see your wings are on the way.
 
finished :rolleyes:

Well... I forgot to bring my postal scale home from the office, so I decided use what I had in the tube as Bob suggested. I got everything set up and ran through the whole process with my wife. I set the kitchen timer to 30 minutes and away we went. After mixing the 3.5oz tube, I squeezed it into 2 2oz syringes. We were finishing up the last elevator within the last 5 minutes.

I did not attempt to wipe the excess proseal off of the edges. I figured I would make a bigger mess trying to clean it up.

Thank you all for you help.

rudder_proseal.jpg


right_elevator_proseal.jpg


left_elevator_proseal.jpg
 
Proseal Cleanup

You'll be able to clean up the Proseal during the next day or so using MEK. Good luck,

Mike
 
proseal

I think doing the tanks was actually pretty fun. I mentally stressed out that every rivet was prosealed and until I knew for sure that there were no leaks it was pretty mentally draining, but in the end the dread I heard about the tanks made the experience pretty stressful. In truth it is the most "attention to detail" one needs to do, it is sticky and if there is ever a shirt one wants to get rid of, or a few for that matter, use it for prosealing, but doing the tanks really wasn't that bad at all, for the -10 I used every bit that I needed and still had plenty left over from the Qt, that was two years ago, I just put the side vents on using the same (room temperature the whole time) proseal and the proseal still stuck without any issues. After 90 days get new proseal if used for the tanks otherwise for gluing parts the stuff will last, on the garage shelf, for the whole build.
Just my experience!

Pascal
RV-10
 
Not a big deal, but keep in mind that Van's will always tell you that the plans are guidelines/ suggestions. You are the builder. So, you can actually use anything you want - try some JB Weld, for instance. Van always calls for ProSeal because they must have a giant pot of it always ready to go.
John
 
johngoodman said:
You are the builder. So, you can actually use anything you want - try some JB Weld, for instance. /QUOTE]

Although J-B Weld is great stuff and I use it often, be careful using it where things have to flex and/or affected by vibration. J-B Weld when fully hardened is not flexible and is subject to cracking.
Click to expand...
 
jhearnsberger said:
I may just trash the tube and use the quart. Just so I will start out on the right foot. I have a good digital postal scale I can use.

So just to clarify.... if I put .10 lb of part A, I would add .01 of part B to make .11 lb?
Click to expand...

I just got the 1/2 oz vials from Vans. You have to be ready and work without delay to complete the sealing in the 30 min working time, but you don't need more than the 1/2 oz

Kelly
40866 in Fiberglass ****.
 
Measure it

Here is an excellent method for using the 2 or 3-1/2 oz. tubes of pro seal:
First, carefully remove the black hardner tube from the center of the white tube.

Carefully remove enough of the label on the dispenser tubes so that you can mark the tube in 1/8th increments along its length. This is easy, just mark with a felt-tip pen at 1/2 the distance from the end of the tube to the bottom of the plastic plunger. Now you have 1/2 portions marked out. Repeat for fourths and repeat again for 1/8th increments. Do the same to the hardner tube. Remember that all of the hardner mixed with all of the white compound is a perfect 10 to 1 mix for the whole tube. Now it is easy to dispense 1/8 compound and 1/8 hardner for a small job.

Go out and buy a $1.79 caulk gun from your local hardware store. It can be adapted to the extruder tube by inserting a ~ 3/4 inch socket into the tube to back the flat part of the plunger. The caulk gun plunger will just fit inside the dispenser tube and butt against the socket and the socket will butt against the flat part of the plunger.

Just release the caulking gun tension once you have dispensed what you need so that the tension doesn't cause more to be forced out.

Then carefully pull the rubber stopper partly out of the hardner tube ( it won't come all the way out) and dispense 1/8 of the hardner into the resin. Then puts the stopper back in. Also, don't use the screw in nozzle for dispensing as that amount of resin will not go into the mix and will screw up the proportions of the mix. Just put a piece of duct tape over the outlet to keep the unused resin fresh.

Put the unused stuff in the fridge to preserve it's freshness.
 
proseal

1422 (proseal) can be bought pre mixed, but it is stored at -80F.
 
One Part stuff

paul mosher said:
1422 (proseal) can be bought pre mixed, but it is stored at -80F.
Click to expand...

Spruce also sells a one component version that can be dispensed from a HW store caulking gun. With this you can skip the entire mixing process.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/ap/fuel_tanksealants/al13064.php

09-02544.jpg


Not expensive at $9 for 5 oz or so.

I just bought some for firewall sealing and it acts and feels like ProSeal with all of the usual sticky, gooey properties - it just takes a little longer to cure.

I'm not sure if I would use it on an actual fuel tank, but for things like the trailing edges it would be cheaper and easier. :)

No deep freeze needed for this one.
 
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