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  #1  
Old 12-31-2019, 03:08 PM
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f14av8r f14av8r is offline
 
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Location: Tampa (Wimauma actually)
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Default Leaking Fuel Tank Rivet

Okay, so I've tried all the tricks to get this rivet to quit leaking. No amount of pressurized cattle syringe injection of any type of sealant has worked. They slowed the leak quite a bit but have not stopped it completely. So, I'm ready to take the plunge, drill this sucker out and replace it with a new, sealant coated rivet so I can get the leak stopped and the paint back in order!

The plans call for a AN470AD4-4 rivet. Obviously, I'll need a blind countersunk rivet for the replacement. To save me having to learn all about Cherry Max rivets again, would one of you rivet wizards tell me what I should use here please?
Thanks,
Randy





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  #2  
Old 12-31-2019, 03:51 PM
Rv3Dave Rv3Dave is offline
 
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Location: Florida
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Default

Your looking at the wrong drawing for the rivet that is leaking.
The one in the picture is probably an an3-3.5 I donít think you will find a pop rivet that will work in this size and location. Your best bet will be to remove the tank and open up the rear baffle to access the rivet so it can be replaced and resealed.
Do a search for tank leak repair and you will find many threads on this problem.
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  #3  
Old 12-31-2019, 03:57 PM
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f14av8r f14av8r is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rv3Dave View Post
Your looking at the wrong drawing for the rivet that is leaking.
The one in the picture is probably an an3-3.5 I donít think you will find a pop rivet that will work in this size and location. Your best bet will be to remove the tank and open up the rear baffle to access the rivet so it can be replaced and resealed.
Do a search for tank leak repair and you will find many threads on this problem.
Thanks Dave! But, I'll let it leak at the rate it is leaking FOREVER before I pull the tank and open it up to fix that one problem.

I sure can't figure out what drawing I should be looking at if not that one. That's why I need one of you builder wizards to help me out!
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  #4  
Old 12-31-2019, 04:41 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is online now
 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Default

Back in the old days, one of the factory guys suggested using one of the 1/8" sealed end pop rivets you use to attach the aft baffle to the ribs. You drill the offending hole out to 1/8", countersink it a bit if it is dimpled, then put a dab of proseal on the rivet and install. You come back once the proseal is cured and file or sand the rivet to some acceptable level of flushness.

After that, you fill and paint...
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  #5  
Old 12-31-2019, 05:52 PM
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mulde35d mulde35d is offline
 
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Default Old rivet

Watch for the shop head of the current rivet when it is drilled out. FOD in the fuel tank is never a good thing.
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  #6  
Old 12-31-2019, 06:21 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
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Why not trying the green Loctite method to see if that will fix it before opening the back>
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  #7  
Old 12-31-2019, 09:15 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
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What Kyle said.... should work fine and be a relatively simple install. Make sure you clean the area perfectly to assure the proseal sticks and let it cure for a few days. Then all you have to worry about is the cosmetics - no problem. If you need a couple of those sealed end pop rivets, let me know, Iíll send you a couple.
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  #8  
Old 12-31-2019, 09:36 PM
Jpm757 Jpm757 is offline
 
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What about using an MK319-BS rivet?
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  #9  
Old 12-31-2019, 09:43 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpm757 View Post
What about using an MK319-BS rivet?
Might work, might not. Those aren't sealed end rivets, so you'd have to get proseal down into the rivet (into the area where the mandrel is) and hope it holds.
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  #10  
Old 01-01-2020, 08:00 AM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
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Default maybe

Maybe an AK-42H...countersunk, closed end, blind rivet...
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