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paint option - Summit

rjcthree

Well Known Member
Summit Racing just released their new 2 stage paint for custom car work(CC/BC). Available in a decent range of colors, in both std and low-voc formulations. Standard colors only, no mixes.

It's going to be popular - a gallon goes for what I've payed b2b locally for a quart of DuPont Chroma. Like $129 a gallon metalic BC. No clue what the clear is going for, nor what the actual formulation is. It's not a waterborn though, based on the voc numbers.

Decent HVLP gun should get you in paint for about $600 in material, best as I can figure. I'm still committed to shooting Stewart, but geez, the price looks so right, and I think I can shoot it pretty well . . . .

Rick 90432
 
That's a similar price...

Summit Racing just released their new 2 stage paint for custom car work(CC/BC). Available in a decent range of colors, in both std and low-voc formulations. Standard colors only, no mixes.

It's going to be popular - a gallon goes for what I've payed b2b locally for a quart of DuPont Chroma. Like $129 a gallon metalic BC. No clue what the clear is going for, nor what the actual formulation is. It's not a waterborn though, based on the voc numbers.

Decent HVLP gun should get you in paint for about $600 in material, best as I can figure. I'm still committed to shooting Stewart, but geez, the price looks so right, and I think I can shoot it pretty well . . . .

Rick 90432

...to the Mil-Spec PTI polyurethanes from Aircraft Spruce -

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ptipolyurethane.php

White - $87 /gall
Yellow - $107 - $120 /gall

..and their FAQ talks about no-charge color matching...

Has anyone used these paints yet?
They are single stage (not clear coat) paints though.
 
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Ive used Kirker products (well about 15 years ago was the last time i saw it)
I was not happy with it at all.. Took twice as much to cover as the brand name stuff..
I had no idea that stuff was still around. Its cheap yeah, but if you have to use twice as much material, is it really worth the deal?
Now maybe they have changed the formula with all the new laws from the feds, Id be leary of it.. get a little of it and try it on something that is a bit smaller than your entire aircraft.
just my 2 cents..
Cheers!
 
I shot my -8 using only stewart and although I'm marginally happy with the results I wouldn't ever do it again. Far too translucent and unforgiving of uncontrollable environmental changes with no way to really judge the time between coats. For dark colors you will absolutely need the 4 full coats and probably a few more and if you misjudge the timing on the last coat the entire effort will run in one huge sheet of expensive paint (ask me how I know!!!!). I was fairly competent using HVLP with other types of paint but stewart system kicked my butt!!! If you have a temp and humidity controlled paint booth and can achieve temperature consistency throughout your paint project then you have a decent chance of a great outcome. Otherwise I highly recommend another system. Often I get past the 3rd coat with everything looking perfect except that it is so translucent the primer was still showing through. I'd wait the required time for the 4th coat and misjudge by a few seconds and either orange peel the whole thing or it would all run off onto the floor in a huge mess. The timing was totally dependent on temperature and very difficult to judge.


My unsolicited .02

Ken
 
Kirker paint is probably in the lower 50% if you were to rank all the available paints. We used some here a few years ago (the customer insisted) and, while not "disappointed" with the results, were not really happy either...

At the end of the day, you are going to get what you pay for.

Our house brand is PPG. It's on the expensive side, but the company stands behind the product, tech support is always available, and the results speak for themselves.

Consider the cost of having to buy some or all of your products twice if you have to redo the job. And I would echo what Painter John said; it took more product to cover than comparable PPG products.

Brad Simmons
Airframes Inc.
Milan, TN
 
Stuck

Now I'm stuck. I won't have a good pro booth, and I've bought forced air breathing equipment - so I'm questioning my Stewart decision. I've got plenty of clean, dry air, a DV FL3 stainless HVLP (which I really like, did some car work with it recently).

Since all my skins are alodoned, I like Van's approach of primerless and light while using a high quality paint. Single stage is my preference, maybe 'cause I'm lazy.

Some of you pro's out there offer some thoughts, please?

Rick 90432
 
I have been really happy with Kirker paint, specifically with their base/clear. Friend of mine painted an RV-3 with it and it was flawless, equal in appearance to any show finish.
 
I used the exact same set up, even bought a new air compressor. This system needs a ton of air at low pressure 12-14 CFM. I set my FL3 exactly as their video showed, called them several times to discuss (they are very helpful and friendly). At 75-80 degrees you shoot the first coat extremely thin (its more like dust than anything). Wait exactly 10 minutes, open the fluid an 1/8 and shoot a cross coat, wait exactly 10 minutes, open an 1/8 shoot the 3rd cross coat. Up till now this is great and things are looking very shiny and smooth. The 3 coat process was easy, repeatable and was silky smooth every time. Wish I could have stopped here. Problem was I was shooting Indigo Blue which is very dark. At 3 coats following their setup procedure exactly it was still light blue with the white primer bleeding through. The 4th coat is the deal breaker. The time between 3rd and 4th is about 15 minutes, however you will have a heck of time knowing exactly how long to wait without a ton of experience with this paint and the color you've chosen. If you shoot 30 seconds early it will run all over the place. 30 seconds late and its an orange peel disaster. My last piece of my -8 was my left wing. I got up early on a Saturday when the temp was exactly 75 deg. Oh did I mention the pot life is about 45 minutes so you have to plan to mix new paint in between coats and this requires a precision gram scale so you can quickly mix the EXACT ratio of activator and water have it mixed and ready before your 4th coat - not easy! Anyway, I shot the 3 coats on the wing and it was glorious! I thought I finally was going to have to perfect job. I mixed my last batch of paint for the 4th coat, waited exactly 15 minutes. Tested the paint with back of hand and it was just tacky (as is required). I adjusted the fluid control open 1/4(which is per instructions) and began shooting. It looked fantastic....for about 3 minutes when I noticed a color change begin near the leading edge and move its way across the entire wing....a huge run! OMG (as my daughter would say!!!) luckily however, i was very experienced with this process at this point and was ready. I pulled my fine foam paint roller out of my pocket and rolled over the entire wing at the 3:30 mark. It turned out shiny but just a little grainy. My intention is to cut and buff using Norton Ice (which according to the Stewarts works very well). I have painted 2 airplanes, a few cars, and a bunch of other things using PPG, IMRON, and others with great results. I chose stewart for the low VOC and super easy clean-up. It was easy to clean-up alright but I found myself cleaning up a lot more often as I was redid each part of my plane at least 3 times. NEVER AGAIN!!!! PPG is the easiest and works!!! My .02
 
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