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  #131  
Old 06-05-2019, 05:54 PM
rv6ejguy's Avatar
rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 5,424
Default Clamps Soon!

Ok, my supplier has the clamps in Canada now so I should have them by Monday or Tuesday and can start filling outstanding orders soon after. Thanks to everyone for their patience.
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Ross Farnham, Calgary, Alberta
Turbo Subaru EJ22, SDS EFI, Marcotte M-300, IVO, Shorai- RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 436.1 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
http://sdsefi.com/cpi2.htm


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  #132  
Old 06-15-2019, 09:41 AM
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rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 5,424
Default

I finally have lots of the CT clamps in hand now so am starting to ship more of these kits again. Sorry for the long wait.
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Ross Farnham, Calgary, Alberta
Turbo Subaru EJ22, SDS EFI, Marcotte M-300, IVO, Shorai- RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 436.1 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
http://sdsefi.com/cpi2.htm


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  #133  
Old 07-06-2019, 05:48 PM
RedRaider94 RedRaider94 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Celina, Tx
Posts: 34
Default

I am needing to replace my gaskets and hoses (with CT clamps vs the screw type I have on today). I am a little confused as to whether this will work with my setup and prefer not to have to cut and weld.

I have a Superior IO360, parallel valve, cold air induction, fuel injected model. The intake tube has a slight taper/bulge where the hose connects the intake tube to the cold air sump. I donít know the diameter of the tube where the slight bulge is located.

Does anyone have a similar setup and have tried it or know if these will work without modification?

Thanks!
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  #134  
Old 07-29-2019, 10:12 PM
svyolo svyolo is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: bellingham, wa
Posts: 167
Default

I installed my intake seals today. I tried every method. I liked the tape idea but I noticed that the spring clamps on my combo just barely tightened down to the intake tube. So I slid them up, and used them to hold the flange in place instead of tape.

Slide a spring clamp up to push the flange to the stop. Keep the space between the two tabs on the clamp away from the bolts.

Put on the O-ring and aluminum ring.

Push it up in position, insert bolts and tighten until 1/8" inch away. Take a flashlight to make sure the rings are still seated.

Tighten, slide the clamp down, and torque. Put the spring clamps in position.

Done.

Pics available if desired.
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  #135  
Old 09-23-2019, 01:40 PM
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N363RV N363RV is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Arlington, tx
Posts: 205
Default So excited..

I have had issues the same as most folks have described in various threads regarding having to swap out the paper intake seals every 200 - 300 hours. I had an induction leak get mean on a night flight and thankfully I had an awesome airport 10 miles ( I was at 9500) away and landed. After I figured out what happened I was just so darn frustrated with this part of the engine going bad again. I carry those paper seals with me in the plane and have had to preplace them on the road. Sigh... I ran across what Ross and Toobuilder came up with. I am hopeful and excited. I ordered the kit today and have faith in their idea. So excited and hopeful that this is the last time I have to mess around with this particular part.

Thanks Ross!!
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Model: RV 6A
Based - KJWY
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  #136  
Old 11-13-2019, 08:07 PM
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rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 5,424
Default

Got a whole herd of gold and red flanges back from the anodizer yesterday if folks want to fix this problem once and for all during annual.
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Ross Farnham, Calgary, Alberta
Turbo Subaru EJ22, SDS EFI, Marcotte M-300, IVO, Shorai- RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 436.1 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
http://sdsefi.com/cpi2.htm


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  #137  
Old 11-13-2019, 09:40 PM
Bicyclops Bicyclops is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: LA, California
Posts: 257
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6ejguy View Post
Got a whole herd of gold and red flanges back from the anodizer yesterday if folks want to fix this problem once and for all during annual.
Wish you had a solution to work with the Superior cold air sump.

Ed Holyoke
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  #138  
Old 11-14-2019, 08:14 AM
rv6ejguy's Avatar
rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 5,424
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bicyclops View Post
Wish you had a solution to work with the Superior cold air sump.

Ed Holyoke
I looked at a couple of 2 piece designs to make this happen, but they just are not rigid enough to work properly IMO.
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Ross Farnham, Calgary, Alberta
Turbo Subaru EJ22, SDS EFI, Marcotte M-300, IVO, Shorai- RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 436.1 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
http://sdsefi.com/cpi2.htm


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  #139  
Old 11-14-2019, 09:01 AM
Raymo's Avatar
Raymo Raymo is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
Posts: 2,036
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRaider94 View Post
I am needing to replace my gaskets and hoses (with CT clamps vs the screw type I have on today). I am a little confused as to whether this will work with my setup and prefer not to have to cut and weld.

I have a Superior IO360, parallel valve, cold air induction, fuel injected model. The intake tube has a slight taper/bulge where the hose connects the intake tube to the cold air sump. I donít know the diameter of the tube where the slight bulge is located.

Does anyone have a similar setup and have tried it or know if these will work without modification?

Thanks!
These will not work with the Superior cold air induction sump unless you do as others in this thread and have the tubes cut, install the flanges, and weld back together again. That is my plan, when the day comes to replace my sump.
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Ray
RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, Dual PMags, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, BandC Alt (PP failed after 226 hrs)
Catto 3 blade NLE, FlightLines Interior, James cowl, plenum & intake, Anti-Splat -14 seat mod and nose gear support
All lines by TSFlightLines

"The object of the game, gentlemen, is not to cheat death: the object is not to let him play."
Patrick Poteen, Sgt. U.S. Army
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