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Do you need to match the Regulator with the Alt?

blueflyer

Well Known Member
I have been reading Aeroelectric and Bob recommends a generic Ford voltage regulator. If I was going to use an alternator from Autozone, would I need to find an alternator made for a Ford, or would any externally regulated alternator work?
 
I have been reading Aeroelectric and Bob recommends a generic Ford voltage regulator. If I was going to use an alternator from Autozone, would I need to find an alternator made for a Ford, or would any externally regulated alternator work?

Why not use the referenced 1975 Ford LTD regulator? It was used in a host of different vehicles and should be in stock at any auto parts store.

I've had one in my RV-6 for 15 years.
 
Why not use the referenced 1975 Ford LTD regulator? It was used in a host of different vehicles and should be in stock at any auto parts store.

I've had one in my RV-6 for 15 years.

I'm sorry, My first post should have said "Do I need to match my alternator to my regulator" So, if I use the 1975 Ford Regulator, can I use any externally regulated alternator, or are there only certain automotive brands/models that work with the Ford Regulator?
 
Last edited:
civic alternator

Below is an earlier post
I used the ford regulator with the below mentioned civic alternator. must be externally regulated and " B type windings" If you already have an alternator, an alternator shop can tell you what type of windings and probably sell you the proper plug for the alternator. Tell them it is for a dune buggy! The civic lasted 60 hours. I already had a B&C
regulator but hadn't installed it. When the Civic alternator died, I bought a lightweight B&C and installed it with their regulator which has more protection
and have been trouble free every since. I returned the dead Civic alternator for a for a lifetime warranty replacement. Civic alternator, for regulator, and bracket
are in a box as backup in case I need it.


The Honda civic alternator ( 35 amp) rotates the proper way for aircraft engines The lester n. is 14184 It is a B type alternator and is externally regulated. Can be used with the B& C regulator. Autozone has them for around $ 30 with no core. Do a search on VAF with 14184
Mark Wyss
RV-4 final assembly
O 360 A1A
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Mark Wyss
Cincinnati
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flying
2014 VAF Dues Paid
 
If you use an alternator that is NOT internally regulated, you can use any regulator with it that is the proper voltage. The FORD one that Bob recommends and Sam uses is one that is light weight, available at most if not all auto supply locations, and does not cost a lot. When using any Automotive regulator, it is still recommended to use some sort of over voltage protection. The B&C regulator is more money but includes over voltage protection and it also is a linear regulator as opposed to the switching type that all automotive regulators that I know about use. The linear regulator will make for a quieter electric system without alternator noise.

I have been using the B&C regulator and alternator for over 17-years. I purchased the FORD regulator that Bob recommends but gave it away unused when I retired and moved out of my hangar in the Peoples Socialist Republic of Kalifornia to a hangar in Pennsylvania.
 
Giuys, my alternator "sings" through the audio system. Any guesses about it being quieter if I switch to the B&C regulator? The current regulator is a cheap switcher.
In other words, does most of the high pitch whine originate in the alternator but get stopped by a good regulator in quiet planes?
 
Giuys, my alternator "sings" through the audio system. Any guesses about it being quieter if I switch to the B&C regulator? The current regulator is a cheap switcher.
In other words, does most of the high pitch whine originate in the alternator but get stopped by a good regulator in quiet planes?

Mine does too. It is a "switching regulator" of the VR-166 style. The high frequency on-off-on-off nature of the switching regulator generates the singing noise. The linear regulators are a variable resistance system (still solid state). Instead of noise, they generate heat. The linear will be quiet by its nature.
 
Giuys, my alternator "sings" through the audio system. Any guesses about it being quieter if I switch to the B&C regulator? The current regulator is a cheap switcher.
In other words, does most of the high pitch whine originate in the alternator but get stopped by a good regulator in quiet planes?

There is also a high frequency audio "sing" that the rectified 3-phase output of the alternator produces, especially under load. The 60 amp B&C alternator in my RV7A - with corresponding B&C regulator - does this. I don't worry about it because it's only an issue when the alternator is first energized and it's pushing a lot of amps recharging the battery after engine start. This "sing" varies with engine RPM.

This can be a LOT worse if you have a bad diode in your alternator. But if this were the case you'd also most likely also be seeing low output.

You can get a filter capacitor that can quiet this noise - one lead connects to the B terminal right at the alternator and the other lead - usually the case of the capacitor - connects to the alternator case. From what I have heard these work well.
 
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