Van's Air Force
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Convert RV-6?to 6A
- Thread starter fangohang
- Start date
Easier to go from tail to nose wheels. I did it on my 9a.
Basically, new engine mount and cowl. Mine was only at quick build stage, so if it is built, it will be more work.
Basically, new engine mount and cowl. Mine was only at quick build stage, so if it is built, it will be more work.
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Captain_John
Well Known Member
Why ruin a good plane?
Merry Christmas. CJ
Merry Christmas. CJ
That's just mean.
I was going to say it is easy... sell the 6 and buy a 6A. No tools required. Just a pen!
Steve, it is your plane, make it how you want. You know your flight mission, we dont. Let the tail wheel folks keep their attitude. It is your plane.
I thought the OP was asking about buying a 6 and converting to a 6A. (His sig says WTB 6A)
I've seen the question before. I've never seen it quantified, but buying a flying RV and moving the third wheel has never been suggested as 'doable'.
Switching during build has been described, and has its cost drawbacks.
I think in this case the advice should be "Buy the plane you want to buy"
I've seen the question before. I've never seen it quantified, but buying a flying RV and moving the third wheel has never been suggested as 'doable'.
Switching during build has been described, and has its cost drawbacks.
I think in this case the advice should be "Buy the plane you want to buy"
N941WR
Legacy Member
While I agree with Rockwood's comment, my question is why do you want to make the change?
Did you find a nice -6 that you want to buy but don't have any TW time?
If that is the case, spend 10 hours in something else and get your endorsement and then transition to the -6.
Flying a tailwheel aircraft really isn't that difficult and after you get a 100 hours in it, there is no difference in insurance.
The truth is, flying a TW aircraft isn't hard. Heck, look at the clowns on this forum who can do it, myself included.
Did you find a nice -6 that you want to buy but don't have any TW time?
If that is the case, spend 10 hours in something else and get your endorsement and then transition to the -6.
Flying a tailwheel aircraft really isn't that difficult and after you get a 100 hours in it, there is no difference in insurance.
The truth is, flying a TW aircraft isn't hard. Heck, look at the clowns on this forum who can do it, myself included.
Kyle Boatright
Well Known Member
Converting a nosewheel airplane to tailwheel wouldn't be a horrible job. The only sheet metal work necessary would be modifying the aft bulkheads and fitting the tailwheel structure. Once you do that, you bolt on a new engine/gear mount and the new gear, and you're 90% of the way there... The last 10% is largely cosmetic.
On the other hand, converting a tailwheel airplane to a nosegear configuration involves match drilling a set of main gear weldments to the wing spars. That sounds like a miserable, somewhat risky, job.
Agree - it would be easier to buy the plane you want rather than convert. It was not clear to me if the OP owned the plane already or not.
My fuselage was built with the motor mount for a tail wheel. It was pretty easy to make the change. Other than the cost for the new motor mount which was offset by the sale of the tail wheel mount - same with the gear, it was an easy change. Cutting the steps in and removing the baggage floor to put the blocks in was a simple job too. Most likely the existing cowl would be able to be re-used with minimal modifications.
In the end, the cost would be minimal and the time would not be significant. Going from nose to conventional is a whole different ballgame.
Edit - I just read Kyle's comment about being easy to go to tail wheel. I figured it would be tricky to get the tail wheel parts inside the tail cone area. I didn't think the gear weldments was that bad. One thing that has to be easier is getting the wing bolts in on a conventional. Holy ****, it is a tight fit in a small area to get them in around the weldments.
My fuselage was built with the motor mount for a tail wheel. It was pretty easy to make the change. Other than the cost for the new motor mount which was offset by the sale of the tail wheel mount - same with the gear, it was an easy change. Cutting the steps in and removing the baggage floor to put the blocks in was a simple job too. Most likely the existing cowl would be able to be re-used with minimal modifications.
In the end, the cost would be minimal and the time would not be significant. Going from nose to conventional is a whole different ballgame.
Edit - I just read Kyle's comment about being easy to go to tail wheel. I figured it would be tricky to get the tail wheel parts inside the tail cone area. I didn't think the gear weldments was that bad. One thing that has to be easier is getting the wing bolts in on a conventional. Holy ****, it is a tight fit in a small area to get them in around the weldments.
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N941WR
Legacy Member
Gang, remember, the OP asked about converting 6 to a 6A. They are not prepunched so everything has to be drilled, including rolling the fuselage over to align the gear legs and then drilling them.
It would tske much less time to become proficient in a TW 6 then to convert one to a 6A and it might cost less, if the OP has to buy the tools or hire someone to do the conversation.
It would tske much less time to become proficient in a TW 6 then to convert one to a 6A and it might cost less, if the OP has to buy the tools or hire someone to do the conversation.
cajunwings
Well Known Member
Convert
I went the other way but a very rough conservative estimate for planning would be $2500 for parts & material and 80-100 hrs of labor for average level of ability. Might cost less after selling off the old parts and while some guys could do this quicker a lot would likely need more time. I would leave the tailwheel mount in place and live with the small weight penalty. Would probably be simpler to sell the TW & buy a A. Life is short put the little wheel where makes you happy.
Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
I went the other way but a very rough conservative estimate for planning would be $2500 for parts & material and 80-100 hrs of labor for average level of ability. Might cost less after selling off the old parts and while some guys could do this quicker a lot would likely need more time. I would leave the tailwheel mount in place and live with the small weight penalty. Would probably be simpler to sell the TW & buy a A. Life is short put the little wheel where makes you happy.
Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
Vern
Well Known Member
Tailwheel to Nosewheel conversion
The build procedure has you place the fuselage upside down, install the wings (upside down), and use a long angled metal between the main gear legs to get the gear leg orientation correct for drilling.
It was hard on a new build.
I think it would be tough to do from new undrilled parts on a completed RV.
Perhaps using previously used mounts for the mains would work but there might be some reaming involved to get all the holes aligned.
The build procedure has you place the fuselage upside down, install the wings (upside down), and use a long angled metal between the main gear legs to get the gear leg orientation correct for drilling.
It was hard on a new build.
I think it would be tough to do from new undrilled parts on a completed RV.
Perhaps using previously used mounts for the mains would work but there might be some reaming involved to get all the holes aligned.
roadrunner20
Well Known Member
Others may have already chimed in.
I went the other way from 7a to 7.
The engine mount swap would not be a big deal.
I'd leave the tail mount attached.
The big project would be the gear weldments and how they attached to the spar. Working in a tight area and possible drilling the spar for the proper alignment would be very challenging. I'm not sure how the spar is delivered from Vans on the 6. Are they pre-drilled is the big quesion to ask?
FWIW, TW are fun to fly & I had 0 TW time when I converted.
They are also easier to maintain than the A model and cleaning the canopy is easier.
I went the other way from 7a to 7.
The engine mount swap would not be a big deal.
I'd leave the tail mount attached.
The big project would be the gear weldments and how they attached to the spar. Working in a tight area and possible drilling the spar for the proper alignment would be very challenging. I'm not sure how the spar is delivered from Vans on the 6. Are they pre-drilled is the big quesion to ask?
FWIW, TW are fun to fly & I had 0 TW time when I converted.
They are also easier to maintain than the A model and cleaning the canopy is easier.
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As others have said, it's possible, but not really reasonable given that there are -A model 6's available.
Are you just asking "to see what's possible" because you've found some good deals on -6's, but not so many on -6A's? Are you set on an -A model because you are a low-time pilot or have no TW experience? TW training isn't difficult, will get you in the air faster, and won't give you a project that could take a year or more to complete.
Are you just asking "to see what's possible" because you've found some good deals on -6's, but not so many on -6A's? Are you set on an -A model because you are a low-time pilot or have no TW experience? TW training isn't difficult, will get you in the air faster, and won't give you a project that could take a year or more to complete.
Says the guy who's signature says "Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!"
Just to emphasize what was said previously....
Fitting and match drilling (which for the most part isn't required on a 7 or 9) the main landing gear weldments on an RV-6A is a much different and more complex process than it is with a 7A or 9A.
There is really no comparison.
If I were undertaking it I would plan on fabricating/welding some custom made clamps to hold the weldments in place while match drilling all of the holes or give serious consideration to Gil's suggestion of doing it on the wings with them removed.
Fitting and match drilling (which for the most part isn't required on a 7 or 9) the main landing gear weldments on an RV-6A is a much different and more complex process than it is with a 7A or 9A.
There is really no comparison.
If I were undertaking it I would plan on fabricating/welding some custom made clamps to hold the weldments in place while match drilling all of the holes or give serious consideration to Gil's suggestion of doing it on the wings with them removed.
I agree 100% with Scott. On the -6 this is not a project to be taken on by a non-builder.
Performing the operation like Gil suggests would be marginal. It would depend on how accurately the original builder reamed the steel splice plate attach. Without the additional carry through section, there could be a little slop.
This is, of course, my opinion and worth exactly what you paid for it!
Performing the operation like Gil suggests would be marginal. It would depend on how accurately the original builder reamed the steel splice plate attach. Without the additional carry through section, there could be a little slop.
This is, of course, my opinion and worth exactly what you paid for it!
I don't think that would be a problem Mel because the original drilling done by Phlogiston was with the spars, both splice plates and the bulkhead all fixtured and drilled in assembly. The biggest issue would be properly positioning the weldments laterally so they matched up flush to the lower longerons. Not something that I would look fwd to doing.
az_gila
Well Known Member
Just plan on a small error in the inwards direction and make a shim to fit.
I think careful measurement from the outer bolt hole to the longeron would get you very close so the shim needed would be of minimal thickness.
Lots of trimming/ grinding to make the bolt heads/nuts fit the differing thicknesses of the gear mounts will be needed anyway.
The forward mount to the longeron never fit very well anyway and can be bent to conform, and shimmed if needed - which mine needed.
Just plan on a small error in the inwards direction and make a shim to fit.
I think careful measurement from the outer bolt hole to the longeron would get you very close so the shim needed would be of minimal thickness.
Lots of trimming/ grinding to make the bolt heads/nuts fit the differing thicknesses of the gear mounts will be needed anyway.
The forward mount to the longeron never fit very well anyway and can be bent to conform, and shimmed if needed - which mine needed.
Yup, I know... I have been through the whole process numerous times.
Primary point for this thread... it would not be an easy process regardless of how you did it.
Converting a 6A to a 6 would be no big deal.
az_gila
Well Known Member
Yep - doable, but a real pin in the a**.
Sitting here digesting a good Christmas dinner is much easier.
IMHO
Having owned a RV-8 and a RV-6A, I would recommend leaving it in the tailwheel configuration and enjoying the ride. My current project is a RV-6 and the only issue is that it is a tip up that I am sourcing parts to let it live as a slider, which is not cheap either.
Enjoy the ride.
Having owned a RV-8 and a RV-6A, I would recommend leaving it in the tailwheel configuration and enjoying the ride. My current project is a RV-6 and the only issue is that it is a tip up that I am sourcing parts to let it live as a slider, which is not cheap either.
Enjoy the ride.
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Is the 6 primed? It's way harder to do it if it is primed.
In all seriousness, I always feel bad when I see people insisting on a trike gear because of all the fun they are missing. Some people seem very intimidated by tailwheel, but it is an absolute blast, and there are so many cool planes you can fly once you get the skill that a Cessna driver will only be able to admire from a distance, like J3s, Champs, 180s, all the biplanes etc.
But I would fight to the death to defend your right to build what you want and help you any way I can.
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