Confusion riveting fuse skin

If you check out the build instructions page 8-10, top third of the page, paragraph that starts 'Pre Rivet..."

I am at this point in the build and I am confused about what they are asking. I know what I want to do, but I cannot ignore the little voice in the back of my head that says "Do it Vans way or you will pay!" We've all heard that voice and paid the price for not heeding it.

The confusion comes from this section:

"'Pre-rivet' the F-704H Center Section Side Plate (DWG 11) to the F-770 skin. A few key rivets are set at this time because they will be very difficult to reach when the skin is installed on the fuselage. These rivets are right next to the spar entry cut-out. Set the upper five rivets forward of the spar cut-out, leaving the lowest one open...it will be riveted when the skin goes on. Set the six rivets aft of the spar cut-out."

Click to expand...

Now look at this picture. Note that the fuse is upside down on the saw horse.



The holes with the black circles are the five that get pre-riveted to the F-770 skin now. The red circle is the "...lowest one...". Notice the proximity of that hole to that spar support behind it. I can see no reason to leave that hole open now. The chance of damaging the bar behind it is very high if I do it the way the instructions want. What is going to come back to bite me if I don't do it the way the instructions state?

You can pre revit the 704h to the side skin now but leave the bottom rivets open.
1) the bottom fuse skin also rivets to these locations and
2) DWG 28 shows to use LP4-3 because of no access to shoot/squeeze them.

Gil
Like Carlos said the red circle will get a LP4-3 later on and the cleco on the left in your picture will get a solid rivet when the forward bottom skin gets attached. I have a note on my fuselage skin that I used an 8 there which is longer than the plans #28 specs. YMMV
Also maybe its just your picture angle but the outboard seat rib forward flange sits inside the 704 center section flange. Drawing #22 detail E.

Got it! Thanks. I looked at the rivet call-out earlier and thought it was a 4-6. Having looked at it again I see that it is, in fact an LP4-3.

Thanks for the info, I was having the same confusion. I am assuming it is OK to use the driven rivet in the bottom hole aft of the spar cutout?

Bottom rivet

I had a problem with my -8 build at this location. The spar reinforcing bar was so close to the back side of the skin that there was not room for the back of the blind rivet. I pulled the skin and doubler plate away from the spar and set a 470 with the shop head towards the outside of the airplane and the manufactured head towards the spar. The forward bottom skin will be more difficult to install with this rivet already placed, but I couldn't see any other way of setting a rivet in the bottom hole.

Pilot28906

Yea,you are good to go with 470 rivets aft of the spar cutout on lower two holes.

Thanks for the clarification.

Riveting F-770 Forward Side Skin

The instructions are not very clear to me about riveting the side skins to the longerons on my RV-7A. On the rear fuse I riveted only the holes in between rivets to hold the F-773 skins in place. I then drilled 3 holes through F-770 and the longeron and plan to rivet those 6 (3 on each side) to hold the skins in place until I am ready to rivet on the top skins fore and aft. My plan then is to set all of the rivets in the cockpit area in between the forward top skin and the rear top skin. Am I correct in this plan or am I missing something? Thanks.

Replace LP4-3 with MSP-42 at F-770 to F-772 to F-704H

DaAV8R said:

I had a problem with my -8 build at this location. The spar reinforcing bar was so close to the back side of the skin that there was not room for the back of the blind rivet. I pulled the skin and doubler plate away from the spar and set a 470 with the shop head towards the outside of the airplane and the manufactured head towards the spar. The forward bottom skin will be more difficult to install with this rivet already placed, but I couldn't see any other way of setting a rivet in the bottom hole.

Click to expand...

I had the same issue on my -7, however I didn't realize it was a problem until I had already riveted much of the F-770 in place. It turns out that the thickness of the sheet stack here is right on the upper limit of the grip length for an MSP-42 Monel rivet. This rivet was still slightly too long, so I simply ground down the bulb a fraction, and sure enough, it worked perfectly. Hopefully this may be of help to someone in the future.
Tom.

I think everyone's got it figured out, but here's a photo from my 7 to confirm.



The bottom four rivets (on the right side, red circle equivalents) near the belly will be pulled. No way to buck these babies.

I actually only had to pull one rivet (on each side of the fuselage). The first rivet aft of the fuselage can actually be set with an AN470 before the skin is clecoed in place (Although the manual specified an LP4-3, but it is not necessary). The second rivet aft of the cutout should be able to be driven and bucked in place (you may need an extension on your rivet gun). The first rivet forward of the spar cutout is the one that needs to be pulled, and the second rivet forward should be able to be driven bucked in place if you have the F-7114 gusset removed. Then again, they can all be pulled if you so choose. I've got nothing against blind rivets.
Tom.

Yep, I only pulled the one as well