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IO-540 oil drain

Plummit

Well Known Member
I have a BPE IO-540 with the AFP fuel injection system. The oil drain has a Tee that connects a hose from a little higher point on the back of the engine. The bottom of the Tee has a B nut that must be removed to drain the oil. Why is the Tee necessary and is there a better way to drain the oil?

~Marc
 
Something is not right. The oil drain should be on the bottom left side of the sump not on the back of the engine. I've got the same engine and FI from BPE and no tee. Got a pic?
 
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Do you have the cold air induction?

there is no internal oil pickup in that sump. You need to run a 10D line from the Tee to the upper fitting. The 10D hose has a bend radius of about 5 1/2" so the hose ends up being longer than you would expect...
 
there is no internal oil pickup in that sump. You need to run a 10D line from the Tee to the upper fitting. The 10D hose has a bend radius of about 5 1/2" so the hose ends up being longer than you would expect...

Yup, that's what Allen said. It seems that when you use a horizontal injection system there is no pick up for the oil so they install a Tee fitting then a B nut for the oil drain.

It's a bit of a problem holding the Tee while breaking the B nut loose. I was told that someone makes a quick drain fitting that will work with the Tee?

BTW, a shout out to Barret: They saw my post and figured I'd be calling. Good to know they follow VAF!

~Marc
 
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On my list

On my list to call them. Someone on this forum said they have made one but wit didn't make it online yet. I will call them and see tomorrow. Will post answer here...
 
I've just discovered I have the same oil drain problem on my BPE narrow deck engine. Allen confirmed the Saf-Air Products P5000 oil drain valve won't fit the Tee. I don't fancy the idea of going back to wrestling a B nut off a hot Tee fitting and covering my hands in hot oil.
Has anyone found a better solution that keeps a Tee for the for the hose to provide the oil pickup but takes a different quick drain valve? Is there a quick drain fitting to simply swap out the B nut?
Mike
 
I still haven't found a quick drain

Hot oil isn't the problem that I have, it's that the whole Tee turns when trying to get the B nut loose. Of course I use a back-up wrench on the tee, but it's impossible to hold it perfectly still.

-Marc
 
Sealant

I used Loctite 567. Longer cure time for adjustment, high temp, and not affected by petroleum products...
 
Replacement Tee

The Tee I used was a standard hydraulic fitting that has one male 1/2" NPT and two female 1/2" NPT ports. Cost was about $6...
 
Oil screen fitting

I am helping another RV-10 builder who has a BPE IO-540 with cold air induction and I am trying to connect the 10D oil line from the T fitting to the rear of the crankcase.

The problem is that the elbow fitting is 180 degrees out once I torque up the fitting for the 10 D hose ( this elbow is a custom elbow that holds the oil screen supplied by BPE)

Can anyone help with another fitting idea or option to clock this fitting in the correct orientation?

Do all BPE engines with Cold Air Induction have this challenge ?

(edit : I have since resolved the clocking issue,but as this is a serviceable item,the action of removing and re-clocking an NPT fitting on a regular basis is not very desirable option )
bPihpOa3WYpbgTcBIQVsfCiEkb8nB3CQMRn4ZQVybLaAXxy3aa-VyE0MD5s7YCJcqfXZDXHQMEbM1s4nCTGaoPw-QIw9ieW4EkGgKUM7MO-4fImDtrhiffGiqkQiB1MIK7LZCBg2wkSbQ4F2Om86LM-lpsTweSsUKqdNbVVQ-rhoG2gMQzIinNbwmSJV3lVuqNumrP3BmILXMxNsAsICisxr1N97T-2RU0SPRxIaFHVtyR2mgcWk9EIvFIjSbWkauhVWMswJt7d35cKFF-wJrcWQs6Ivkf9BygxPAkDnVFGRiu9p33VBnXSFDxGRmLOcQoIVDNXETcXa0x1gZ9Dnv8kkCFzt_k8DCbQLf56HVlVGdFjwag9srM0LGnMudyA8CxFCJGyhFPSD0OhGPzzxe3FLKobpHqqOkTr3tclT2cLi-fP5LPYupewc00d_Z0axj_gpM1kBPX0CNZb-Uy3FFt6Vg-9rMbtlpYDaXDPmXI7IOrNqpuwXFbLTy2B7ZPwSKl0SIrEjUNrLrKvcIq06PLxBgkNAZunVanWMtcWvZnz6XDm-Tc0C1LjzqeyohSb81Tue6t8FY5kCVTlaMLMdXxOL-SQi4OIz-tCfmXPgdB6CZnOtlDlHmQf4FbIoqXejLr5ibQaYyxyk09nBpO4Aatj9onw243q97Q=w503-h670-no


It is going to be a ‘royal pain' to service this filter screen .

1UK0I7R589Bi1clbxAJf6uKYQzV1fGDYxHJGCHcbxKxV9g2MsneESKUjTDc1G0UI2nmLhPYCyZL9HSLY9UqsTj25wfLJQLU-x7MRRKSSBTF5yf0Wf11LP0FD6CHRqdm_3aUVMixgel6ZnDL8sCaV7DKwZ5lPUebtkbL2j3HJtwqZNPFlQm38eJeKB3vV72DrQQe-genLOPjFYkAfCxA6qhRK3pJqbLIIt5iCkeYMgyIMcTIyfuRxCrJogEfvc6hw--yPfk4omuuENe4yL8JwlZkVBnxuzGaQzAuCipm9WY-9wB7ccuWw6YPnAkowhxZ4w7yGe5hJyoVFmc7PdI5pz45WBoxB9L8DmmQyijixWdyWNFtaF4KP9Cpwtz21O4HNWpxenAWv-C83z-5o7jtyRU7IUj-73kRRHrQQZjvic7ky3RsKV8jmwpaLu80fmPQ0yBjtHIOIrCLnTpYEbzZpSHBX5TW50d8UueCsLZba1lL6D_4pCLtrChYyhK1v3qoYWfoI5Udh4uHehg9vLXVeMoWzf17cJ8ktINLaJ7XpQ2mdOTlbGvLBqttiIASdBfStwjL6x29uCBxdf9q835gSDG4Fha6k9ugNnDu-Vv8okaEKWUETl4ZZNpYVmnTBpj_X2N7m2EeQ_E9Z5ZLdd5cZ-PaNAhDogqw0Xw=w503-h670-no
 
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Hoping someone can offer an option to my request

Cheers
 
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I didn't know there was an oilscreen behind that elbow! You are correct that it will be a witch (with a capital "B") to service that screen...

-Marc

I am helping another RV-10 builder who has a BPE IO-540 with cold air induction and I am trying to connect the 10D oil line from the T fitting to the rear of the crankcase.

The problem is that the elbow fitting is 180 degrees out once I torque up the fitting for the 10 D hose ( this elbow is a custom elbow that holds the oil screen supplied by BPE)

Can anyone help with another fitting idea or option to clock this fitting in the correct orientation?

Do all BPE engines with Cold Air Induction have this challenge ?

(edit : I have since resolved the clocking issue,but as this is a serviceable item,the action of removing and re-clocking an NPT fitting on a regular basis is not very desirable option )
bPihpOa3WYpbgTcBIQVsfCiEkb8nB3CQMRn4ZQVybLaAXxy3aa-VyE0MD5s7YCJcqfXZDXHQMEbM1s4nCTGaoPw-QIw9ieW4EkGgKUM7MO-4fImDtrhiffGiqkQiB1MIK7LZCBg2wkSbQ4F2Om86LM-lpsTweSsUKqdNbVVQ-rhoG2gMQzIinNbwmSJV3lVuqNumrP3BmILXMxNsAsICisxr1N97T-2RU0SPRxIaFHVtyR2mgcWk9EIvFIjSbWkauhVWMswJt7d35cKFF-wJrcWQs6Ivkf9BygxPAkDnVFGRiu9p33VBnXSFDxGRmLOcQoIVDNXETcXa0x1gZ9Dnv8kkCFzt_k8DCbQLf56HVlVGdFjwag9srM0LGnMudyA8CxFCJGyhFPSD0OhGPzzxe3FLKobpHqqOkTr3tclT2cLi-fP5LPYupewc00d_Z0axj_gpM1kBPX0CNZb-Uy3FFt6Vg-9rMbtlpYDaXDPmXI7IOrNqpuwXFbLTy2B7ZPwSKl0SIrEjUNrLrKvcIq06PLxBgkNAZunVanWMtcWvZnz6XDm-Tc0C1LjzqeyohSb81Tue6t8FY5kCVTlaMLMdXxOL-SQi4OIz-tCfmXPgdB6CZnOtlDlHmQf4FbIoqXejLr5ibQaYyxyk09nBpO4Aatj9onw243q97Q=w503-h670-no


It is going to be a ‘royal pain' to service this filter screen .

1UK0I7R589Bi1clbxAJf6uKYQzV1fGDYxHJGCHcbxKxV9g2MsneESKUjTDc1G0UI2nmLhPYCyZL9HSLY9UqsTj25wfLJQLU-x7MRRKSSBTF5yf0Wf11LP0FD6CHRqdm_3aUVMixgel6ZnDL8sCaV7DKwZ5lPUebtkbL2j3HJtwqZNPFlQm38eJeKB3vV72DrQQe-genLOPjFYkAfCxA6qhRK3pJqbLIIt5iCkeYMgyIMcTIyfuRxCrJogEfvc6hw--yPfk4omuuENe4yL8JwlZkVBnxuzGaQzAuCipm9WY-9wB7ccuWw6YPnAkowhxZ4w7yGe5hJyoVFmc7PdI5pz45WBoxB9L8DmmQyijixWdyWNFtaF4KP9Cpwtz21O4HNWpxenAWv-C83z-5o7jtyRU7IUj-73kRRHrQQZjvic7ky3RsKV8jmwpaLu80fmPQ0yBjtHIOIrCLnTpYEbzZpSHBX5TW50d8UueCsLZba1lL6D_4pCLtrChYyhK1v3qoYWfoI5Udh4uHehg9vLXVeMoWzf17cJ8ktINLaJ7XpQ2mdOTlbGvLBqttiIASdBfStwjL6x29uCBxdf9q835gSDG4Fha6k9ugNnDu-Vv8okaEKWUETl4ZZNpYVmnTBpj_X2N7m2EeQ_E9Z5ZLdd5cZ-PaNAhDogqw0Xw=w503-h670-no
 
If you look at

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=Rocketman&project=2056&category=10063

You will see what I did. I changed the tee to one with a npt pipe thread and then used a fumoto quick drain. The details are in my kit log and I think it will work well...

See the 6-12-2017 entry referencing the oil pickup line, first photo

That looks like a nice way to get around the problem of adding a quick-drain valve to the 10D fitting. It turns out that Saf Air now makes an adapter for the 10D fitting but it's hard to find on their web site. Call Bob at Saf Air and he can guide you to the right parts. Note: They are only available from Saf Air right now.

-Marc
 
WE talked to Allen Barrett at OSH about making a hose and conversion fitting for this. Honestly, came up with an idea, just havent put things together for Allen to test it. Life and business got in the way, but its on the list of things to do.
Tom
 
I was wondering whether anyone had progressed this issue recently.
It seems like a less than ideal setup overall.
What have most people done about making the finger screen serviceable?
Cheers
Richard
 
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Put a straight fitting in to hold the oil screen and have the hose with the 45. I did this with my setup and check the screen at annual. The hose runs down to a tee on the sump with a quick drain on the bottom.
 
Tim,
Did you machine the straight fitting to accept the strainer? The elbow is a custom part to hold the strainer.
 
We played with this and having gone through several options, came up with this. Thanks to Randy Pulis in Canada for his help in fine tuning this.
90* AN822-10D in the aft sump----yep have to machine it for the screen (I have to talk to Rhonda about what the OD is), then a modified AN826-10D tee that screws in to the bottom of the sump. Since most are using a Safeair quick drain, we're working on this tee system. We have a steel tee thats just fine, but its heavy and ugly. Either has a 1/2 NPT male that screws into the sump, branch side is a AN10 male, and in our concept mockup, the bottom would be 1/2 Female NPT, so the Safeair QD would screw directly into it to save some space. Working on that minor little detail.
Hose is our -10 firesleeved convoluted hose with a straight at the aft sump and a 90* at the tee, so it can be put in most any location according the indexing of the tee. On Randy's 10, it clears the engine cross bar mount by plenty, so we think it will be good for all Barrett CAI sump applications.

Kit isnt quite ready for release yet---sorry been alittle busy --but I have some tees and other parts coming to make a mockup to take to Osh.
pics are turned----hum---

Tom
 

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Straight custom nipple

Hey Tom,
I would be in favour of having a straight custom nipple with the 45 deg on the hose same as Tim describes above. The reason is to service that filter screen and get the clocking back to the correct location each year would be problematic over time as the threads wear and seat deeper.

I am not sure if there is a conflict with the engine mount, hopefully someone will chime in with a clear photo of that location. My old photos appear to show clearance.

I’ll need 3 x kits when/if you can get it sorted (fittings,hose and quick drain )

Cheers,
 
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Hey Tom,
I would be in favour of having a straight custom nipple with the 90 deg on the hose same as Tim describes above. The reason is to service that filter screen and get the clocking back to the correct location each year would be problematic over time as the threads wear and seat deeper.

I am not sure if there is a conflict with the engine mount, hopefully someone will chime in with a clear photo of that location. My old photos appear to show clearance.

I’ll need 3 x kits when/if you can get it sorted (fittings,hose and quick drain )

Cheers,

I agree with Ashley and would prefer a solution with the straight fitting on the sump.

here's a pic of the clearance.

IMG_2533.jpg
 
Richard---the pics does seem to indicate enough clearance to put a '90*' hose end in there. Close, but enough as long as the engine shake doesnt affect the clearance.
I think the difference here is the type of hose, and the type of 90* being used. A 303 hose is too stiff, and a 701 probably would be the rubber hose choice. Using the EARLS fitting as an example, the flarehead to bend centerline dimension is 1.15. To the Aft of the bend, the closest point to the gear mount, would be +- 1.315. Thats with a hose end with brazed flareheads, stems and wired on nuts. Thats also with a hose with .500 ID.

Ours, in comparsion is 'diferent'. WE use a true bore convoluted teflon hose, yep true .625 ID, but more flexible than 303 with the same OD. The big difference is the hose end. Ours is a 1 piece flarehead, body and stem, CNC machined, then mandrel bent. It uses the the floating nut design without a lock wire. The tradeoff here is a slightly greater bend radius, and a longer drop. That means there is no way a straight nipple and our hose end would fit in the space required. So we had to approach it a different way

Tom
 
Thanks for that detailed description Tom.
I’ll give it some more thought before I send you a list of FWF hoses 😀.

What about a solid S/S tube instead?
Both ends are fixed so there should be no movement.
Not to dissimilar to the prop governer line on the O-360.

Cheers
 
Excellent!

We played with this and having gone through several options, came up with this. Thanks to Randy Pulis in Canada for his help in fine tuning this.
90* AN822-10D in the aft sump----yep have to machine it for the screen (I have to talk to Rhonda about what the OD is), then a modified AN826-10D tee that screws in to the bottom of the sump. Since most are using a Safeair quick drain, we're working on this tee system. We have a steel tee thats just fine, but its heavy and ugly. Either has a 1/2 NPT male that screws into the sump, branch side is a AN10 male, and in our concept mockup, the bottom would be 1/2 Female NPT, so the Safeair QD would screw directly into it to save some space. Working on that minor little detail.
Hose is our -10 firesleeved convoluted hose with a straight at the aft sump and a 90* at the tee, so it can be put in most any location according the indexing of the tee. On Randy's 10, it clears the engine cross bar mount by plenty, so we think it will be good for all Barrett CAI sump applications.

Kit isnt quite ready for release yet---sorry been alittle busy --but I have some tees and other parts coming to make a mockup to take to Osh.
pics are turned----hum---

Tom

Perfect timing Tom! You are welcome to check the fit on my Barrett equipped RV-10 😉
 
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