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Aft Fuse Riveting Side Skin to Bottom Skin

Brent 801

Member
Having trouble getting the side skin to lay flat on the bottom skin when clecoed. The side skin dimple appears to not drop into the underlying bottom skin dimple. Anyone else had this problem?
 
something isn't right

it's been about a year since I worked on the rear fuse bottom skin.

I do remember once or twice, or so - that something like holes not lining up perfectly and having a minor freak-out over it. When that happens, stop whatever you're doing, walk-away - a few deep breaths, back up a few steps, re-read the instructions, study everything closely - my few potential uh-oh's worked out to be a slight progression down the wrong path was due to trying to go too fast. If it still doesn't line up, don't force it and seek other input before proceeding.
 
It's not a matter of wholes not lining up. It is trying to get the aft fuse side skin to lay flat on the aft fuse bottom skin.
 
mine worked out in the end...

I had much the same problem at this stage

https://n414pj.wordpress.com/2014/12/21/rivets-rudder-cables-and-wires/

The gap looked horrible!

with-gap_zpspjdhtj22.jpg


I used some wingnut clecos to draw it tight and a very light touch with my rivet gun to finalize the easing of the bend.

It came out very clean when I was done.

without-gap_zps8ueyfr4f.jpg


Pat
 
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I remember several rounds of assemble and some gentle hand shaping of the side skins to get all to meet without any untoward force to line up for riveting.
 
Bottom edge side skin needs a break

I looked closely at my rear fuselage side skin-to-bottom skin edge. I saw that the bottom edges of the side skins have a break. The side skin edges are tight to the bottom skin. It's easier the break the edges before the #40 holes are dimpled when using the vise-grip roller, skin breaker tool.

Reviewing the instructions on page 10-14 there is a note at the top of the page that reminds that breaking the skins will improve the fit at the edges and to then dimple using a reduced diameter female die so the dimple die doesn't affect the broken edge.
 
breaking the edge wasn't enough for me

I did break the edge, but found that it wasn't aggressive enough to pull tight with normal clecos. The wing nut ones really helped me. See above.

Doing it again, I would break the edges more to account for the curve.
 
Breaking skin edges

Pat,

I used the roller type on the bottom skin and the entire edge is tight to the bottom of the side skins.

I have found that breaking the skin edges with the vise grip w/ rollers tool works so much better than any of the few plier type breaking tools I have tried. The roller breaker made a nice continuous crisp break.

You do have to set the gap carefully between the rollers to not be too tight and you have to pull it along slowly to be sure it doesn't wander towards or away from the skin edge which can bugger up the break edge either way.
 
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