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Fiberglass 101

BigD

Well Known Member
After being pretty impressed with some of the fiberglass work and instruction being displayed here, I took the common advice of getting the AS kit/book and doing a little self-education. I'm in between the tailkit and wings on my RV-10 and figured now is as good a time as any to try my hand at it. Turns out the kit is great advice and I learned a few lessons, or let's say, made mistakes that I hope won't get repeated on the airplane. The first project in the book is a 6-ply flat layup that was pretty simple; the goal is to weigh in a measured finished piece within limits showing that a 'correct' ratio of resin to cloth was used.

35aqhki.jpg


The next two projects are a beam and a bookend, but that didn't really excite me too much, so I went off plan and decided to try and make a seat kit for one of my bikes that will fit here:

10yq34w.jpg


Carve out the mold -curve in back is to nest well against wing-shaped seatpost...

9ksfg1.jpg


And glass it

t976h4.jpg


This is where the learning curve starts up...a fully enclosed object is going to have drips or at least a heavier end unless you can put it on a rotisserie while drying. Also, using a good mold release is going to be important soon. Finally, test fitting your pieces ahead of time and using a more form fitting material (I ended up getting some 8-harness later and that improved the ability to get the material flat against the mold)makes life a lot easier. The better the initial layup, the less work later. Although, I will say that a corollary is it seems like almost anything is salvageable, if you are willing to sand/fill/repeat.

After getting the layout done (three separate sessions) I cut the front end off to make a lid, dug out the foam (and them used a little acetone) and started the filling process. Another lesson - this is NOT dry micro

2hg9rar.jpg


Another layup to create a rim around the front piece so it acts like a lid (took two more sessions) and then some more fill and sand:

2nhhyk6.jpg


Finally, filling primer, then paint (both from rattle cans. Hey, it's just an experiment). The finished product is certainly useable - yes it's a little thicker than it had to be, and I haven't decided how I'm going to hang it from the bike - shoulda designed that in earlier...

9ihaq8.jpg


A few other lessons learned - attempting to sand before cured enough is a mess; avoid air bubbles, voids and not stuck down cloth; peel ply works better on tight curves in smaller pieces or strips; the white paper dust masks are worthless - I'm going to try a 3M 7500 series mask with appropriate filters. I don't think I'm going to impress anyone with my work soon (I feel kinda like the anti-Dan) but, like I mentioned earlier, you can fix most things (just takes time) and I will have to come up with new mistakes to make on the airplane. Be not afraid...

==dave==
RV-10
waiting on wing kit
 
Take the time waiting for your wings and finish all the tips in the horizontal, vertical, and elevators.

I made the bad decision to wait until I was done with all the assembly before starting the fiberglass work. It's overwhelming if you do it all at the end.

It looks from your projects, you have a good head start on the fiberglass.

Now all you need to decide if you want to hide the seams on all your tips. I fiberglassed all mine except for the rudder fairing. That one I used screws so that I could take off for tail strobe maintenance.
 
Bob, thanks for the response. i took a look at your kit log to see how you did your fairings - was trying to decide whether to start building out the elevator fairings with micro before mounting (I'm going to use rivets for those, screws for the rudder bottom). Seems like most of what i've read so far is that people do finish them similar to what you are doing (did). is it also worth the time to build out the flange of the fairing with some flox/tape before riveting, or is that too fussy? The other question I had is regarding the nutplates for the rudder bottom fairing - on aluminum I've been using the 1097 rivets for nutplates, which i plan to do on the fiberglass as well. Is it recommended to use A vs AD rivets (softer, if I remember the designation correctly)? And did you dimple the aluminum/countersink the fairing, and if so, same question about building up the fairing inside slightly, or even epoxying in a strip of aluminum?

It seems like it would be pretty quick to just whack these things on per the plans, but I'm wondering about fiberglass fatigue or cracking.

I have read other threads about using screws, but didn't see reinforcement or AD vs A rivets addressed.

==dave==
 
I've seen a variety of approaches on reinforcing the fairings. I followed the plans, except for the screws on the rudder fairing and grassing the joints.

I used standard rivets. I know that some people have better luck with softer ones.

For the horizontal and vertical, cut to size, then fill in the backs. Most folks use a piece of foam as a temporary base to build up the first layer of glass. Then fill in the remainder with micro.

To be honest I don't remember the details regarding dimpling. I did what ever than plans called. If they were cs4 blind rivets, I would have dimpled them.

I puT two layers of glass over the seams, the filled with micro. I finished up with multiple layers of smooth prime, but any good sanding primer should work
 
rivet washer

Idea came from someone here, but I glued rivet washers on inside to prevent rivets from cracking fiberglass.
 
I experimented with some trimmed edge from the fairings and decided based on that to add a two layer glass strip to the insided of the rudder bottom flange. I used a suggestion I read here (thanks RV7Guy) to use a pointed dremel abrasive stone to countersink the rivet holes, and that worked well; I'm not going very deep because I'm using 1097s. The 'normal' countersink bit with the #27 tip for 6-32 size holes worked well for the screw hole countersinking, and time will tell if that dulls the bit.

2hyfj48.jpg


I didn't have any problems with cracking or screw/hole alignment - was pretty straightforward - cleco as you match drill #40, then again with the #27 bit. Dimple the metal and attach the plate nuts to the fairing. I plan to attach the upper VS tip with screws, and the elevator/tips and rudder top fairing with rivets per the plans. Was wondering if anyone covers the forward top of the bottom fairing or drills a drain hole - looks like a water catcher...

==dave==
 
Which AS kit?

Dave

I'm exactly at the same stage in my RV7A and have the dreaded fear of fiberglasing. Other than the usual fiberglas work, I also want to explore making a new vertical stab cap for the installation of a beacon.

Which practice kit did you order from Aircraft Spruce?

Thanks
Paul
RV7A FWF Kit
N277PM
Lafayette IN
 
Considering the source, I'll consider that polite encouragement to complete the other two projects in between wings and fuselage...which should be soon.

==dave==
 
You do realize, that IF you're putting this on your bike, it really should be carbon fiber. Fiberglass is just too bush league. (I have an aluminum Cannondale, so no worries here).

In all seriousness, great post. I'm finishing up my empennage, and am looking forward to the 'glassing. The Aircraft Spruce kit is a great recommendation ... I'm gonna practice with that before I go live.
 
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