Metal locknut with Van's tailwheel?

Can I get away with using an all-metal locknut on the axel bolt of my Van's tailwheel?

Based on previous threads, I think I know the answer to my question, but I'm not sure. In order to make my towbar better fit over my tailwheel bolt I'd really like to use a all-metal locknut rather than a castle nut/cotter pin combination. (The cotter pin makes getting the towbar on and off more difficult). However, with a Van's tailwheel, torquing down on the castle nut compresses the bearings and makes the wheel hard to turn. Thus it requires backing off a bit on the torque. Even backed off, the metal lock nut is still really hard to turn, and unlikely to come off, but I'm pretty sure standard acceptable practice is only to use a castle nut/cotter pin here, right?

FWIW - Yes

Not suggesting that this is "officially" OK - just my practice and experience. I had the same issue. I have been using a lock nut for 160 hours now with absolutely no problems. To be truly anal about it, insert the bolt from the right side with the nut on the left. That way, any potential rotation of the axle bolt/nut assembly will tend to tighten the nut rather than loosen it.

Again - this advice is worth what you paid for it.

alpinelakespilot2000 said:

Can I get away with using an all-metal locknut on the axel bolt of my Van's tailwheel?

Based on previous threads, I think I know the answer to my question, but I'm not sure. In order to make my towbar better fit over my tailwheel bolt I'd really like to use a all-metal locknut rather than a castle nut/cotter pin combination. (The cotter pin makes getting the towbar on and off more difficult). However, with a Van's tailwheel, torquing down on the castle nut compresses the bearings and makes the wheel hard to turn. Thus it requires backing off a bit on the torque. Even backed off, the metal lock nut is still really hard to turn, and unlikely to come off, but I'm pretty sure standard acceptable practice is only to use a castle nut/cotter pin here, right?

Click to expand...

I recently did the same thing. Installing a longer bolt with a few washers and the metal locknut for towbar use. The only difference is I have the DJM tailwheel.

http://djmmfg.com/tailwheel.aspx

I found that it has a solid axel and you can tighten the bolt up tight and still have complete free wheeling. So if you are concerned about it that upgrade might be an option. Hey what's another $120

As long as you can "torque" the nut down on the bearing and the bolt is not subject to rotation, you're good-to-go.

On the other hand, if the nut has to be "adjusted" to preset a certain drag, then you must use a castellated nut and cotter pin.

Once you get the cotter pin in place, use a ball peen hammer to *gently* tweak it so your towbar will fit easily. Just a few light taps will do.

I made a spacer to fit between the two bearings out of tubing. With that, you can smoke down the locknut as tight as you like and will never preload the bearings.

I've got well over 1,000 hours on my non-RV that has a cotter pin to hold the tailwheel axle bolt, and have been using a towbar I made in the '80s, that has a round hole, to fit over it.

No problems at all.

Dave

Sam Buchanan said:

Once you get the cotter pin in place, use a ball peen hammer to *gently* tweak it so your towbar will fit easily. Just a few light taps will do.

Click to expand...

Exactly what I have done and it works fine. The Cessna tow bar works just fine.

The fiber nut might not be a good idea on the stock Van's tire since it doesn't have any internal spacer to prevent preloading the bearing when you tighten the axle bolt/nut. So, you can't really tighten it properly, can you?

Also, you'd have a tough time verifying that the bolt/nut are incapable of spinning under the right (wrong?) conditions.

Conversely, if you have an after market tire like our deluxe tire or Dayton Murdock's lightweight tire that has the proper spacers to prevent preloading the bearings, then it is probably OK. Use your good judgement.

However, as others have said, it is probably best to use a castle nut and cotter pin and carefully "adjust" the cotter pin to fit snugly so you can fit your towbar over it.