Several people have put those rivets in with the manufactured head on the other side. I'm one of them! Then the row you have cleco'ed is done with manufactured head on the top side (as shown in your picture) - so they look reversed.
I put a deep small socket underneath, and used a large punch to drive them down flush to the surface, then squeeze them after that. They will look pretty good then. Don't squeeze them that way for sure.
Thanks all of you guys! Going the other way did it. I didn't think I could do it because the flat dies I have all are too huge in diameter to clear the web. I used another cupped one which rounded the edges of the shop head a little but cleared the web and did quite a nice job.
I also tried a nut as a shorter socket to use the squeezer to get the rivet flush with the surface but the interference with the web was too severe.
Both John and Marty's methods will work. Use small diameter dies to allow the cupped head to center on the manufactured head. Also it might be a good idea to remove any gouges from the leg of the angle next to the rivets. This is a high stress area as these tabs provide the torque to turn the flaperons. A crack could start from these discontinuities sometime down the road.
Difficult to do the job with the standard Avery tool set, however I found a way to do it with minor grinding of the Flush set and some washers.
Details in my blog below