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Old 08-05-2019, 07:18 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 3,969
Default Tinypic Going Away

A large number of earlier photos are posted on Apparently that's going away. If they don't have backup photos listed at the bottom, like I'm doing now, and you'd like to see a particular photo, please let me know.

Tell me which post number and I'll refresh it.

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Old 08-07-2019, 11:46 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 3,969
Default Tinypic and Alternate Photo Hosting Here

The site had a note saying that the service will be discontinued in 2019. It's already August 2019, so the clock is ticking. They said,

"While you may continue to host images from our site until further notice, we encourage you to consider selecting one of the premium plans offered by our sister site, Photobucket."

I reviewed this blog of mine and here are the posts using

Posts 1 through 323 (and yeah, that's a bunch!).

I started using a different picture-hosting site in post #329.

Unfortunately I hadn't started including a back-up set of photos until post #221, and then my use of back-ups was intermittent for quite a while.

I also have PDFs of all the pages, but my page length is 40 posts rather than the default 10, so the PDFs are pretty big - too big to email and I no longer have a file-hosting site. I might have some time later this year where I will be able to devote more time to blog maintenance than now, and if so, I'll try to update the photos with alternate hosting and backup hosting links. Are there particular posts I should start with?

I also have a table of contents file that I can email. It's more or less up to date, so please advise if you'd like a copy. There won't be a subscription update service so you should consider that a one-time good deal, and add future updates yourself. It's a text file so it's easy to use.

The sites I use now are:

www.imgur. com.
This is a free site, but an account is needed, I think. It's easy to use.
Another free site, no account needed. Also easy to use.
Another free site, owned by a VAF member (thanks, Bill!), and easy to use except for the fact that if it does allow batch loading, it's sure not obvious. See this post for its introduction. I have not yet gotten any emails from them.

Worth noting is that even if a hosting site offers photo-size adjustment, I've been using a program on my Mac for that. I use Preview, a Mac feature, and set the photo width to 800 pixels.

Ok. Regular programing will resume, with of course, special announcements as appropriate.

P.S. Later in the day, I spent some time updating the photos in post #1, just to get a feel for the job. It's slow but manageable. Don't count on a rapid change. It's likely that when I have that time later this year, though, I might be able to hit it then. Again, if you have a particular post you want updated, do let me know.

Also, while the Tinypic photos still work, consider saving the pages as PDFs. On my Mac and maybe on a Windows machine, it's an option in the print option box, and fairly easy to do.

Last edited by David Paule : 08-07-2019 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 08-23-2019, 10:17 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 3,969

With the roll bar in place, I trimmed the turtledeck so they fit together. Havenít made the fill-in pieces at the front of the roll bar yet, though.

The clearance recesses werenít all that hard to make, but they were tedious.

One of the things Iíve wanted to try are the Eastwood two-part rattle-can paints. I bought the epoxy primer and a top coat. In the photo, my reading glasses keep them from rolling away.

I used some this paint for the roll bar. The gray epoxy primer is a very light gray. To me, itís attractive. I top-coated it with their under-hood black, another two-part paint. I donít know itís nature but possibly itís a urethane. Donít think itís an epoxy. The paint is very easy to work with. Once mixed, the cans are good for 48 hours, and thatís all, so I needed to be ready to go then. The cans cover 10 square feet and cost about $25 a can. Iím only using it on the roll bar except that I used up the excess epoxy primer on some other parts, without top-coating them.

Once the paint dried, I bolted the roll bar in place.

Remember the work platforms from post #410? There are a few things that need clearance to go from below them to above them, like the pitot-static tunes, ADAHRS cable, transponder cable and antenna lead, and so on. I need to carve them a bit to accommodate those things. If you decide to make work platforms for your plane, which I recommend, you will too. FYI.

Alternate photo hosting today is at Here's the turtledeck cut-out, and here's the Eastwood paint.

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Old 09-07-2019, 09:55 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 3,969

Been working on small stuff for now. I added a couple Adel clamp tabs to some stringers, things like that. Here’s one of the things, the shoulder harness attachments. I’d seen one RV-3B that had the turtledeck locally flattened at these attachment fittings due to the rivets forcing the skin to conform to the thicker bars. I glued these fittings in place before riveting and the external contour is fine. The photo shows it glued but not yet riveted.

Here’s the photo of it riveted. I back-riveted these. You can see that the curvature of the skin is preserved, which was my primary goal.

I’ve been tooling up to attempt to paint the inside of the tailcone. A rattle can paint would do quite well here, the goal is merely to make it white for a little more light when I need to work back there. I chose to attempt a finish paint job using exterior paint and equipment, less a paint booth, which I haven’t put together. So far I got

Devilbiss filter, drier and regulator,
Devilbiss FLG-4 HLVP paint gun,
PPS cups and adapter,
3/8” air hose with high-flow fittings,
Stewart Systems EkoCleaner, EkoEtch, EkoPoxy and Ekocrylic,
Hobby Air system with the full hood, shared with another builder.

I got started and put the EkoPoxy primer on the skin. It took two coats to cover and dried quite rough. But in a few hours the roughness had disappeared and the surface is smooth with an even satin finish. I like it.

Mixing the EkoPoxy took a call to Stewart tech support. When I opened the can, it looked like mud. Thick chunky mud, with some liquid under it. Turns out that’s normal. It took a drill mixer to mix it. I first tried a MixerMate and broke one of the mixing ears off in it. A bit of a mess. Here it is just opened; you can see the liquid at the far left.

The MixerMate does do a good job sealing the can and its built-in spout is a nice thing.

I shot a coat of clear gloss Ekocrylic over the Ekopoxy for a learning and evaluation exercise. Well, I learned that clear over white, in indirect lighting, isn’t easy for a first-time painter. The finish came out clear, glossy, but either a bit thin or some orange peel. It’s good enough for the tailcone interior, which is where I used it, but I’d like to practice more if I were doing the exterior.

If you’re planning on painting the tailcone white for easier maintenance, which I do think is a good idea, after comparing both the satin primer to the gloss topcoat, I prefer the satin or flat paint texture. It helps give more even lighting there. FYI.

Yes, this took more time and money than merely using rattle-can paint would have, but I've been concerned about eventually needing to paint the plane, and wanted to see if I could get sort of an advance idea of what I was getting into.

The alternate photos are this one, and this one, and this last one.


Last edited by David Paule : 09-16-2019 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 09-16-2019, 06:36 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 3,969

Hereís a photo of the EkoCrylic-painted tailcone interior.

One of the smaller things I did was to install the Adel clamps at the aft end of the rudder cables, to hold the plastic tube in position. The Adel clampís best position was with the tangs attached to the skin. I hate to have hardware poking through the skin so I needed to use flush screws for that. That brought its own issue, of how to dimple the skin for the screw head. The location was considerably beyond what any of my tools could manage.

Had to think.

What I came up with was this arrangement, which worked quite well, somewhat to my surprise.

The leading alternative would have been to glue a thick piece of aluminum inside the skin, and countersink through the skin for the screw head. But the dimple is better.

Hereís the dimpled hole from the outside, with a screw in place.

Hereís the same thing inside.

The steps on an RV-3B are the short extensions of the seat pan that end up at the spar bulkhead at the forward end. Hereís the seat pan and the steps in Dwg 24.

When I made the seat pan, I didnít realize that the steps were integral. So I needed to make them to fit. More thinking, since the seat pan is removable on this RV-3B. Either the steps remain connected or not, but either way, they needed to be removable. The pitot connectors and electrical harnesses go under them. The steps are in progress.

With the help of Dave Dooley, we glued the tailcone top skin to the fuselage today. This is the last large glueing job on the airframe. The exoskeleton is obvious here. The bulkhead portions are 1Ē x .063 2024 from Vanís, and the longerons are 1Ē x 1Ē x 1/16Ē aluminum from a big box store, procured locally.

I had to help the bulkheads line up with the cleco/rivet holes from inside the fuselage. It was apparent how useful the white paint was helping to spread light around. Highly recommended.

The next day, when the glue had set, I removed the exoskeleton, but left some clecos just in case, just to avoid that annoying ďcrack - sproing!Ē sound.

The back-up photos are here, here, here, here, here, and here, too. Sorry, this time they're not in order.

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Old 09-17-2019, 12:17 AM
RussellT RussellT is offline
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Albany Western Australia
Posts: 55

Nice work Dave it is looking good. I think the foot steps are designed to be removable and not part of the seat pan, Illustration A-A (dwg #24) I think shows them fixed with screws. Anyway I did mine with screws separate to the seat pan which I also made removable via 6-32 CS screws instead of the called out pulled rivets.
RV 3B. Very slow build. At fwf & baffles...
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Old 09-17-2019, 11:45 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 3,969

Yeah, thanks for the comment. That's a good place for screws. The rest of the seat pan is screwed down into nutplates. I'll need to decide if the steps get screwed or riveted to the seat pan, though I'm leaning towards screwed, to give me the option of just pulling those off.

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Old 10-16-2019, 05:25 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 3,969

David Howe, my mentor, sent me some test coupons to glue and rivet to see if my glue process works on top of the white Stewart Ekopoxy primer. Note that I’m not bonding to the primer at this time and haven’t bonded to primer on anything on the plane. This was just for interest, that and to compare to both rattle can SEM and Azko Nobel. Azko Nobel will carry a bonded joint, but SEM won’t.

One test sample broke at 1,510 pounds, and the other two broke at about 1,400 pounds. Those two failed at a point away from the bonded/riveted joint. The three rivets alone are only good for 651 pounds per MIL-HDBK-5H, so this process adds substantial strength to the joint.

In this photo, the test coupon itself, not the joint, failed at over twice the load that the rivets alone, sans glue, is rated for. Looking at the rivet heads, it appears as if the rivets are virtually unaffected. The side clamp is there just as a support to hold the assembly in position for the photo.

The test samples were designed to resemble typical RV-3 riveted joints with the inclusion of glue, and this time, the white Ekopoxy primer. Before shooting the primer, the samples were abraded in the bond area, and then etched using Stewart EkoEtch before priming. After the primer was completely dry, it was glued using West System’s thickened G/flex.

This testing was done to assess whether this primer could be used overall, with post-priming glueing. While it could, it would require pre-abrading the parts before the etching and priming.

A later series of tests essentially compared 3M's 2216 to G/flex. The 2216 is a stronger epoxy but that's all I can say at this time.

After that, the remaining parts needing an epoxy primer were primed. Some already had the primer on one side. These parts got primed: seat back, baggage bulkhead cover and both baggage floor pieces.

Moving on to riveting, the first day Dave Dooley and I riveted the left side of the turtledeck cover at the longeron. After some QC and drilling out, I riveted some of the aft-most left longeron rivets through the back bulkhead myself.

I got a hub base prototype for the Dynon SKyview network hub kit that Az_Gila designed. You can read about it here:

It needed some sort of a base that protected the open traces from contamination and stood the hub off from its mounting surface. Steve Melton designed it and Amanda Melton 3D printed it. Here’s a prototype. It works just fine.

All fitted up with the hub kit, although not with flight screws,

I haven’t been working much on the plane recently, but we are trying to get the tailcone top riveted on. I’ve been getting things ready around the house for a period where I’ll be recuperating after some major but otherwise routine surgery scheduled for next week. I expect to be unable to work on the plane at all for perhaps a month, and then only light duty for another month. Those are relatively crude estimates of course. During that period, I hope to transfer as much of the now-dead photos that I used in this blog from TinyPic to another hosting site. We’ll see how that goes - don’t expect a lot.

In the meantime, stay tuned. I’ll be back.

Back Up photos: here, here, and here, too.


Last edited by David Paule : 10-18-2019 at 04:50 PM.
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