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Advice for a new RV-12 pilot

My father is purchasing an RV-12 - it looks like the deal will be finalized shortly. He is 83 yrs old, and has considerable experience as a pilot, but has asked me to fly with him each time he flies the RV-12, so I need to get to know this plane.

I have my PPL with ~300 hrs logged. I will get a checkout with an RV-12-experienced CFI before I go solo.

In the meantime, to get into the RV-12 frame of mind, can you tell me about the nuances of this airplane? What advice would you offer to a new RV-12 pilot?

Thanks
 
Steve:

Others on the forum have more time in the RV-12 than I do but here are my thoughts:

The RV-12 is about as straightforward an airplane as you will find. Depending on what you've flown before, you will probably find it to be lighter on the controls, but not so much that it feels touchy - it truly does seem to just go where you want as soon as you think about it - no need to have a death grip on the stick, a light touch is best. Compared to Piper/Cessna trainers and standard models (like Warrior/Archer/172) its much more responsive and the roll rate is quicker. Also very stable in most attitudes. At normal cruise speeds, not much rudder needed in a turn, but you'll find slow flight takes a bit more rudder to feel right.

Stalls are gentle and it takes some coaxing to stall the airplane, reminds me most of a Cherokee (Hershey bar wing in particular) in this regard.

Landings are generally very easy, but so for me the biggest adjustment from my prior flying experience is that you have be more careful to fly it all the way to the ground on landing - light airplanes respond to every little change in the wind direction/speed. In gusty winds, especially crosswinds, it's very important to avoid side loads (keep it straight down the runway). Like all tri-gear RV's it's really important to hold the nosewheel off the runway as long as possible on landing. During takeoff it's also a good idea to unload the nose gear early - many people recommend soft field technique as standard takeoff.

The castering nosewheel takes some getting used to but becomes second nature pretty quickly.

It's also important to control airspeed on approach - the -12 wants to keep flying and will float a long way if too fast on approach.

One thing that's nice about the -12 is that the Rotax has one control for power. No mixture or carb heat so checklists in transitional phases of flight are very simple.

You'll enjoy it and should be an easy transition.
 
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Others with more experience than me will undoubtedly have more to say but I've found my -12 pretty gentle. No bad habits that I've found. It will float on landing if you're too fast so fly it by the numbers. I use 70 kts downwind, drop a notch of flaps when turning base and slow to 65. Full flaps turning final and slow to 60 on short final. Be careful to stay off the brakes on takeoff - I have a bit of a hard time with that. Read the POH. Be careful of the throttle friction, the throttle will drift if you're not careful.
 
My father is purchasing an RV-12 - it looks like the deal will be finalized shortly. He is 83 yrs old, and has considerable experience as a pilot, but has asked me to fly with him each time he flies the RV-12, so I need to get to know this plane.

I have my PPL with ~300 hrs logged. I will get a checkout with an RV-12-experienced CFI before I go solo.

In the meantime, to get into the RV-12 frame of mind, can you tell me about the nuances of this airplane? What advice would you offer to a new RV-12 pilot?

Thanks

Is your RV12 a EAB, ELSA, or a SLSA?
What Avionics are in it, Skyview or G3X?

Here are just a few thoughts that come to mind, but by no means covers all the subjects to consider.
How long has it been since your dad has flown?
When was the last time you flew?
You might consider a check out in the right seat after getting comfortable in the left seat.
Consider having your father get checked out also by the experienced Flight Instructor you will use.
Have a frank discussion with your father on who is the final authority when you fly together.:)

These questions are not meant to be intrusive but will give others on the forum more accurate info to make better suggestions.;)

I pick the subject of the rudder to discuss.
Because of the aerodynamic design of the 12 you will probably use the rudder more in it than most light planes. For instance in a climb at Vy when making a left turn you will actually have right rudder input to maintain coordinated flight because of the light weight of the nose and large amount of the torque from the engine. When in any climb right rudder will be required during the climb. The only time you will not need any rudder is in cruise level flight if the plane was trimmed correctly from the builder. The 12 has a free castoring nose gear with no direct steerage available, so rudder use with differential braking when at a slow speed is the only way to steer. Because of the small size of the rudder/brake peddles there is a small learning curve to get use to them. Especially if you have large shoe size. It is not uncommon to takeoff and land with the brakes on until you get use to them. The is no nose wheel shimmy dampener or gas strut to absorb shock on the nose gear when landing. As stated by a previous forum member modified soft field takeoffs and landings will reduce long term maintenance on the nose gear. For instance if you have a out of balanced nose tire and wait to rotate at 50-55 kts a big vibration will occur for a few seconds and spread out through your firewall and engine. Not a good thing over many hours of touch and gos. Basic rule of thumb is as soon as you are tracking straight and speed is increasing get off the brakes by sliding your feet down and lift the nose off the runway just enough so it is not touching, but no higher than the sight picture of the top of the cowl not above the horizon line. :p Yes if you over control you can hit the tail.:eek:. Landing is the same if conditions permit then hold the nose gear off until you run out of speed across the stabilator. This is all done when the weather is good of course. If it windy/gusty with a big x-wind then forget all the finesse on TO and Landing. Good luck and welcome to the forum.:)
 
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Steve,
It would be worth a trip to Dallas to do some flight training with John (aka Jetguy on VAF).

Even though I have a lot of flight time in my -7A, I did 5 hours of transition training with John before I started flying my -12. The time and money was a very worthwhile investment.

John customized the training to meet my specific needs. We also did some fun things that I had never done before.
 
I see that you live in AZ. If you forget to latch the canopy on takeoff, leave it open and do not touch it until at a safe altitude.
Make sure the trim is set for takeoff. A couple of pilots have crashed on their very first takeoff after the plane climbed steeply and stalled.
If your plane does not have an AOA, then install one. Use AOA for landing.
Do not splash fuel on the back window.
Make sure all service bulletins have been completed on the fuel tank. In fact, check that all service bulletins on the aircraft have been completed.
 
Lots of good advice from all - thanks.

Is your RV12 a EAB, ELSA, or a SLSA?
What Avionics are in it, Skyview or G3X?

I believe it is ESLA but will need to verity. It has D-180 avionics.

Here are just a few thoughts that come to mind, but by no means covers all the subjects to consider.
How long has it been since your dad has flown?
When was the last time you flew?

About 10 yrs for dad. I fly regularly (170 hrs in the past 11 months) in my PA-28 and in a Decathlon for tail wheel endorsement training.

You might consider a check out in the right seat after getting comfortable in the left seat.

100% of my checkout will be from the right seat - I'd thought that thru already, and thank you for validating my thoughts on that.

Consider having your father get checked out also by the experienced Flight Instructor you will use.
Have a frank discussion with your father on who is the final authority when you fly together.:)

Yes, he will be next in line with the CFI.

Good suggestion on discussing ahead of time who is final authority. That's a must-do.

I pick the subject of the rudder to discuss.
Because of the aerodynamic design of ...
.
.
.
... Good luck and welcome to the forum.:)
Great info, thank you.
 
+ 1 what Jetguy said. You both might even fly to DFW and get transition training from John
 
Steve,

I fly a Cherokee as well as my 12. I found the 12 controls overly sensitive at first because I was used to 20 years in the Cherokee. I now have about 380 hrs on the 12, and now the Cherokee feels like driving a truck! Your perception of the RV will be driven by what you have become used to.

The other thing that took some getting used to is that the RV does not quickly shed speed like the Cherokee. Forty degrees of flaps on the Cherokee has salvaged many a high and hot approach for me. The RV flaps don't act as speed breaks, so practice some slips.

Another thing about the flaps: the Cherokee nose rises when you apply flaps due to the increased down wash on the stabilator. The RV reacts in the opposite direction with the nose dropping as flaps are applied (just like our aerodynamics instructors told us should happen).

Have fun!

Rich
 
I'll be going back and forth between the Cherokee and the -12, so no doubt I'll grow to appreciate the way the -12 handles. Thanks Rich, good stuff.

Steve,

I fly a Cherokee as well as my 12. I found the 12 controls overly sensitive at first because I was used to 20 years in the Cherokee. I now have about 380 hrs on the 12, and now the Cherokee feels like driving a truck! Your perception of the RV will be driven by what you have become used to.

The other thing that took some getting used to is that the RV does not quickly shed speed like the Cherokee. Forty degrees of flaps on the Cherokee has salvaged many a high and hot approach for me. The RV flaps don't act as speed breaks, so practice some slips.

Another thing about the flaps: the Cherokee nose rises when you apply flaps due to the increased down wash on the stabilator. The RV reacts in the opposite direction with the nose dropping as flaps are applied (just like our aerodynamics instructors told us should happen).

Have fun!

Rich
 
I was amazed at how quickly I forgot about the engine difference. I have an RV-9A with a 160 hp O-320, and I don't even notice the difference. I think most of the sound I hear (I wear Halo in-the-ear headsets) is prop noise, and it is similar as the speeds are pretty much the same. YMMV on that, but it you will have other things to pay attention to at first, and you will get used to it. The throttle, that may be another question. On the 12s I have flown, either it is very stiff, or it will slip. You do need to use the friction lock more than most planes. Other than that, it is an amazing airplane, and easy to fly in all respects. Practice...

Bob
 
Are you familiar with the need to "burp" the 912 engine before start (in order to check the oil level in the tank)? If not, become familiar with this very simple procedure. It involves hand rotating the prop until you hear air bubble in the oil tank. Then check the dipstick for level. Make sure the ignition is off. Also, only turn the prop in the correct direction (or you can damage the sprag clutch on starter).
 
Ok I'll start the list.
After start minimum idle RPM 1800. When shutting down then you can go below 1800 to the lowest possible RPM.
Don't go above 2500RPM until oil temp is above 120F.
Red line RPM is 5800.
Max time limit between 5500RPM & 5800RPM is 5 mins.
Cylinder heads are water cooled so you should never see temps that you would see on the lycon. Usually around 210F. This means that there is no restrictions when you want to reduce to idle, water keeps you from super cooling the cylinders and heads.
In the air set your power using Manifold Pressure not RPM. It more accurate.
There is no 55% or 65% or 75% power settings. Simply adjust your MP to the desired speed you wish to fly up to 5499RPM. It's ok to occasionally bump above 5500RPM. If you burn 100LL over 30% of the time do 25hour oil changes. If less than 30% then 50 hour oil change. Also use declin or TCP to reduce lead build up inside the engine. It a very tight tolerance engine and maintenance will increase with continuous use of 100LL. If you can set it up in your hangar use premium auto fuel. Minimum octane is 91. 10% ethanol is approved. During the summer months you will probably see your oil temp in the yellow arc. Say between 232F and 265F. Never run continuously at or above 266F which is the red line. If you oil temp is in the upper half of the yellow arc then just level off and reduce power and it will Cool Off. The preferred oil is AeroShell Sport 4.
 
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Steve,

Feel free to download the POH from this link at Vans aircraft. All the pertinent numbers are in it.;)

https://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/revisions/RV-12/User_Manuals/POH.pdf

It's a good idea to join Rotax-owner.com. They have many videos on it that show you stuff like how to check the oil correctly and how to change it to.:)

There are also many YouTube videos from people like Phil Lockwood about how to maintain the engine. Check this one out, remember that was filmed in 2009 so there maybe some small changes since then.
http://youtu.be/Z6zYLu8ojzc

Check this one out with your father.:)
http://youtu.be/1Vx4cYj6nsQ

Feel free to download the Maintenance Manual from this link at Vans aircraft to.

https://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/revisions/RV-12/User_Manuals/MM.pdf

And last but not least for your study pleasure here is the link for the RV-12 Flight Training Supplement.

https://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/revisions/RV-12/User_Manuals/FTS.pdf
 
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Here are a couple of YouTube video links that demonstrate the proper technique for takeoffs and landings in regards to the nose wheel.

Mitch Locke, Vans east coast rep.
http://youtu.be/om1_ln6cePs

Scott McDaniels, employee of Vans Aircraft, TeenFlight video, go to the 50 second mark to see takeoff and then go to 1 min 30 sec mark to see landing.

http://youtu.be/haqgyE25YbI
 
I would summarize by saying the ROTAX 912 is a tough little engine with more in common with a modern automotive engine than the Lycoming designs from the thirties.
 
Fred,

I had not heard that rotating the prop backwards can damage the sprague clutch, but I have heard that it can move oil backwards through the system potentially introducing air into the lines. A bad thing either way!

Rich
 
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