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Electrical System Planning - Inputs are welcome

YvesCH

Well Known Member
Dear all

I am currently planning my Electric Power distribution and wanted to know what you think about it.

Basic infos: I am building a RV-8 for VFR and Night VFR flying.
Equipment: G3X 10" Touch, GNC-255, GTX23ES, GMA245, Garmin A/P and Electric Trim. As I will install a light Catto Prop, the Battery
(PC680) will be mounted on the Firewall. On the engine I have planned a B&C starter and a Plane power alternator "with OV".

As the Panel is glass I really want to have a Ground Power Jack.

My current Problem is that I do not know if I need a Avionics Bus to save the
Avionics during engine start (Com, Audio Panel etc). During startup the G3X, GSU73 and the GEA24 will be kept alive with the GAD27.

Here is what I have so far. Am I missing something?

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Electrical

Dear all

I am currently planning my Electric Power distribution and wanted to know what you think about it.

Basic infos: I am building a RV-8 for VFR and Night VFR flying.
Equipment: G3X 10" Touch, GNC-255, GTX23ES, GMA245, Garmin A/P and Electric Trim. As I will install a Catto Prop the Battery (PC680) is mounted on the Firewall. On the engine I have planned a B&C starter and a Plane power alternator "with OV".

As the Panel is glass I really want to have a Ground Power Jack.

My current Problem is that I do not know if I need a Avionics Bus to save the
avionics during engine start (Com, Audio Panel etc). During startup the G3X, GSU73 and the GEA24 will be kept alive with the GAD27.

Here is what I have so far. Am I missing something?

Hi Yves,

I don't think I had a chance to discuss my electrical system when you visited last November, but here are some of my opinions on the subject:

1. When I designed my panel and electrical system, I chose to go without an avionics master because I feel a single avionics switch is potentially a single point of failure.

2. Every item in my radio stack has built in power switches, which I use to power them up with after engine start.

3. My dual EFIS displays do not have internal switches so I installed a pair of miniature toggles next to the ignition switch to switch the displays. The AHRS/Air Data unit is also powered from these two switches so that turning on either display will provide it with power.

4. I chose to keep my lighting switches off of the panel and put them in the right side console. This leaves the panel a little less cluttered with only "flight essential" switches.

Skylor
 
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Some thoughts:
- Fr a 60 amp alternator use a 70 amp output fuse/breaker.
- If you want to run your panel on ground power, you need not install the clunky ground jump connection. As you should never run your panel on a battery charger, you can make a connection on the output side of your master to plug in a quality, 20amp or so regulated power supply. The point here is you leave the master off such that your battery is not connected.
- I agree about not doing engine start with all the panel up. You can solve this by putting a switch in line with the diode from the main power buss to the essential buss. As you have an essential switch anyway you have a second path to power the essential buss if this switch fails.
- Put both pMags on the main buss. Power is only needed for engine start.
- You have too much load on the essential buss for the single #14 wire feeding it.

Carl
 
Thank you Skylor and Carl! I added my comments

Hi Yves,

I don't think I had a chance to discuss my electrical system when you visited last November, but here are some of my opinions on the subject:

1. When I designed my panel and electrical system, I chose to go without an avionics master because I feel a single avionics switch is potentially a single point of failure.

Yes that`s what I had in mind as well but in my current configuration some of the avionics are not switchable (e.g. GMC307)

2. Every item in my radio stack has built in power switches, which I use to power them up with after engine start.


Unfortunately not mine (see above)


3. My dual EFIS displays do not have internal switches so I installed a pair of miniature toggles next to the ignition switch to switch the displays. The AHRS/Air Data unit is also powered from these two switches so that turning on either display will provide it with power.

this could be a solution!

4. I chose to keep my lighting switches off of the panel and put them in the right side console. This leaves the panel a little less cluttered with only "flight essential" switches.

yes this I wanted to do as well, and the CBs like Pauls Dye below

Skylor

Some thoughts:
- Fr a 60 amp alternator use a 70 amp output fuse/breaker.

will do!

- If you want to run your panel on ground power, you need not install the clunky ground jump connection. As you should never run your panel on a battery charger, you can make a connection on the output side of your master to plug in a quality, 20amp or so regulated power supply. The point here is you leave the master off such that your battery is not connected.

Yes but as I live in Switzerland I want the ability boost my battery in cold conditions, therefore I decided to use this connector. As it is "aviation standard" I can find a suitable booster in nearly every FBO

- I agree about not doing engine start with all the panel up. You can solve this by putting a switch in line with the diode from the main power buss to the essential buss. As you have an essential switch anyway you have a second path to power the essential buss if this switch fails.

Hmm good Idea but I need the G3X and the GEA24 running to see if I get fuel flow and after starting if I get Oil pressure

- Put both pMags on the main buss. Power is only needed for engine start.

Ok will do!

- You have too much load on the essential buss for the single #14 wire feeding it.

I have a max of 13.33A therefore a #14 wire should do the job, no?

Carl

Any other thoughts about this topic?
 
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Personally I'm not a fan of the essential bus with it's diode feed, if your alt fails just load shed and land (or turn on the back up alt and keep going). Replace the diode with a high quality switch and make that your avionics bus.
Install a high quality master solenoid. I also like stand alone back up batteries, if the whole system fails it will continue to support critical instruments.
 
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Thank you for your input. After starring at it for a while I came to the idea that a Avionic Bus and a Essential-Bus could work out. Now I can switch on the Engine with the Avionic-Bus OFF but the critical devices (G3X, GEA24 and GSU73) are kept alive with the keepalive power from the GAD 27 on the Main -Bus. If my Alternator goes banana I can always switch ON my E-Bus feed and I have all I need to land safely.

Any different Ideas or mistakes?

WCjYRCd.jpg
 
#6 wire and a 60 amp fuse for you main buss is way too much. Use the #6 on the alternator output.

You now have a diode preventing essential buss power from getting to the avionics buss. Considering you are a single alternator, single battery system, I'm afraid you added complexity without gaining reliability.

There are a lot of ways to go. For example, if you divide your Essential buss and Avionics buss into "Avionics #1" and "Avionics #2" such that the left EFIS on #1, right EFIS on #2, Nav/Comm #1 on #1 and Nav/Comm #2 on #2, and so forth. Power these using a 30 amp relay connected directly to the battery. This allows you to independently control the avionics without having the master solenoid on. This comes in handy if you are using a traditional master solenoid as it draw ~3amps just to stay shut. So for a loss of alternator the first step would be to open the master and dump all the loads not on the avionics buss. You can always add them back (like fuel pump) when it comes time to land. By doing this you greatly extend the battery reserve for a loss of alternator casualty.

Now add a simple toggle switch to cross connect between Avionics #1 and Avionics #2 to use if one of these 30 amp relays fails.

To simplify, divide all your loads into three groups:
Avionics #1 (I call this "Left Vital")
Avionics #2 (I call this "Right Vital")
Main Buss (I call this "Non-Vital"). The Non-Vital buss gets the pMags, electric fuel pump, nav lights, strobes, landing lights, pitot heat, and any misc. stuff like seat heaters and USB connections.

The Vital Busses will include things like trim, flaps, autopilot and panel lights.

If you want to get the biggest leap in capably and redundancy you will need to go to a two battery, single alternator set up. If you do this you can dump the clunky external power stuff as two PC-680 (or PC-625 like I'm using) will crank your engine under the most severe conditions. Two batteries will also provide ~3 hours of full IFR flight with no alternator.

Carl
 
I submit that the concept of an essential bus is flawed. Predetermining what is essential means that you can foresee every possible failure scenario. Other than keeping the engine running, what is essential in VFR flight? What about IFR flight... A second engine?
 
Backup alternator

I decided not to have an essential bus and installed a backup 20A alternator from B and C http://www.bandc.aero/standby-regulators.aspx
All of my circuit breakers are pop-able, except the 20a backup one.
The idea is that should the primary alternator fail, once the battery voltage droops the backup alternator starts providing power. You then pull circuits till you get your current consumption below 20A.
Very simple, effective and does not complicate the bus with diodes and extra relays.
The B and C site has a good installation and operation guide.
 
RV8 Electric Dwg.

Dear Yves,
Looking at your schmatic, I found some issues I would recommend you to notice:
1. There are no wires from tha SHUNT to the Garmin ammeter.
2. The diode between the main bus to the essnttial bus should be a low voltage drope schotkey diode.
3. I would add an additional fuseof 60A as close as practical to tha alternator "B" lead (this will protect the wire between the alternator and the SHUNT in case when the engine is running and a short circuit between the SHUNT and the A/C ground occures).
4. You better choose C.B's to protect electrical wires in accordance with AC43-13 (don't forget that fuses or circuit breakers protect electrical wires not equipment).
Ariel Arielly, Israel
RV8a S/N 80295 200 hours
 
#6 wire and a 60 amp fuse for you main buss is way too much. Use the #6 on the alternator output.
True, I will use a #8 wire for the main bus and a #6 wire on the alternator output
You now have a diode preventing essential buss power from getting to the avionics buss. Considering you are a single alternator, single battery system, I'm afraid you added complexity without gaining reliability.
But this is exactly what I want, I do not need the audio panel or autopilot panel in the case of an alternator failure but I want the ability to switch them off during cranking the engine with one single switch.
There are a lot of ways to go. For example, if you divide your Essential buss and Avionics buss into "Avionics #1" and "Avionics #2" such that the left EFIS on #1, right EFIS on #2, Nav/Comm #1 on #1 and Nav/Comm #2 on #2, and so forth. Power these using a 30 amp relay connected directly to the battery. This allows you to independently control the avionics without having the master solenoid on. This comes in handy if you are using a traditional master solenoid as it draw ~3amps just to stay shut. So for a loss of alternator the first step would be to open the master and dump all the loads not on the avionics buss. You can always add them back (like fuel pump) when it comes time to land. By doing this you greatly extend the battery reserve for a loss of alternator casualty.
Now add a simple toggle switch to cross connect between Avionics #1 and Avionics #2 to use if one of these 30 amp relays fails.

To simplify, divide all your loads into three groups:
Avionics #1 (I call this "Left Vital")
Avionics #2 (I call this "Right Vital")
Main Buss (I call this "Non-Vital"). The Non-Vital buss gets the pMags, electric fuel pump, nav lights, strobes, landing lights, pitot heat, and any misc. stuff like seat heaters and USB connections.
The Vital Busses will include things like trim, flaps, autopilot and panel lights.
Hmm I have to rethink this but its also a bit complicated no?
If you want to get the biggest leap in capably and redundancy you will need to go to a two battery, single alternator set up. If you do this you can dump the clunky external power stuff as two PC-680 (or PC-625 like I'm using) will crank your engine under the most severe conditions. Two batteries will also provide ~3 hours of full IFR flight with no alternator.
I rather would install a SD-8 or SD-20 backup alternator
Carl

I submit that the concept of an essential bus is flawed. Predetermining what is essential means that you can foresee every possible failure scenario. Other than keeping the engine running, what is essential in VFR flight? What about IFR flight... A second engine?
I think the loss of an alternator is the highest risk in the system. This can be mitigated by adding an easy way of shedding power to continue on battery and there I can decide what I need for a safe continuation of the flight. Yes my essential BUS is a bit too big but I can always pull the CB of the big consumers to reduce even more. And in the end the G5 has a backup battery of 2hrs.

I decided not to have an essential bus and installed a backup 20A alternator from B and C http://www.bandc.aero/standby-regulators.aspx
All of my circuit breakers are pop-able, except the 20a backup one.
The idea is that should the primary alternator fail, once the battery voltage droops the backup alternator starts providing power. You then pull circuits till you get your current consumption below 20A.
Very simple, effective and does not complicate the bus with diodes and extra relays.
The B and C site has a good installation and operation guide.
Yes as I have the Grove Gear, Lightweight FP Prop I may run into CG problems. The SD-20 would add some weight in the front and would add more reliability to the system.

Dear Yves,
Looking at your schmatic, I found some issues I would recommend you to notice:
1. There are no wires from tha SHUNT to the Garmin ammeter.
True, I forgot those!
2. The diode between the main bus to the essnttial bus should be a low voltage drope schotkey diode.
Yes I would use this one:
http://www.bandc.aero/essentialbusdiodew8wattheatsink.aspx

3. I would add an additional fuseof 60A as close as practical to tha alternator "B" lead (this will protect the wire between the alternator and the SHUNT in case when the engine is running and a short circuit between the SHUNT and the A/C ground occures).
Ok, I check that again!

4. You better choose C.B's to protect electrical wires in accordance with AC43-13 (don't forget that fuses or circuit breakers protect electrical wires not equipment).
Yes except the ANL there are only CBs in the system. The Ground PWR and the E-BUS Alt Feed switch are Switch breaker

Ariel Arielly, Israel
RV8a S/N 80295 200 hours


Thank you all for your Inputs! Any other Ideas? Its not that easy to install a robust system with some failure tolerance without adding to much complexity .. I don`t want to add a second battery or a small battery as a backup for the avionics as I will use a backup battery on the G5. But if I really get CG problems due to the light landing gear and FP prop I could always add a backup alternator.

Yves
 
There are several "right" ways to measure amps, and the buss condition. I put the shunt in the power side from the battery to all its demands, except starting. That way I know the amp draw of all the components with the alternator functioning or not. Buss voltage is used to assess the health of the alternator and charging of the battery.

My system lacks the alternator output change during the start recovery to the battery, but yields voltage/amps for managing the alt-out flight condition.

Some measure one or the other, some measure both. Builders choice. :)
 
There are several "right" ways to measure amps, and the buss condition. I put the shunt in the power side from the battery to all its demands, except starting. That way I know the amp draw of all the components with the alternator functioning or not. Buss voltage is used to assess the health of the alternator and charging of the battery.

My system lacks the alternator output change during the start recovery to the battery, but yields voltage/amps for managing the alt-out flight condition.

Some measure one or the other, some measure both. Builders choice. :)

Thank you but I think Ariel thought that there should be two cables from the shunt to the GEA24 and not the position of the shunt itself. Of course he is totally right but I did not show all the cables on the overview sheet (the ones from the flap switch to the GAD27 and the coolie-hat switches to the GAD27 for trim are missing as well).

But you are technically right that there are different places for the shunt and I am not yet 100% sure where I want to install it, your place seems logic to me. As you see by the voltage if the Alternator is working or not.

Thanks anyway for the input.
 
Hi Yves

How did you draw your wiring diagram , what software package ?

Looks good !

Hi,

as I did not want to pay a fortune for a software I have just used PowerPoint :)

But ist a long time ago that I posted this. Meanwhile a lot has changed.

In Switzerland they have a requirement to have a backup compass if the main one is digital. It needs to run at least 30min under a second power source. So I finally had to install a second magnetometer (GMU-11) to feed the G5 with data (without it would only show track from GPS which is not enough for my authorities). Unfortunately the backup battery of the G5 does not supply the magnetometer.

So I ended up installing a 3Ah backup battery only to meet the requirement of this 30min power to the GMU-11... As this would not make sense I hooked it up to the G3X and the G5 as well. So if my Alternator goes Bottom up I have 1hr with the essential bus on ship power (earth-x 900) then 1hr for the G3X system including the G5 and the second magnetometer and then ~3hrs on the internal battery of the G5 (but only with track and not HDG).

I know way to complicated but I did not want to change the panel again only to mount a Compass.



103ybds.jpg


2w21y5k.jpg
 
diodes and protections

Hi Yves,
I will try to introduce an argument adding more reliability to aircraft electronics.
Using diodes in the power supply path ( series) will subtract some tension to the equipment. The relevant data of Shottky diodes in this application are Vf ( forward voltage drop at the max current used ) Vr ( reverse voltage supported by the diode ) If ( direct current supported ).
The most frequent failure of diodes is related to spikes ( inductive load switched, the worst is the alternator and alt. field in case of alternator failure ). Spikes are defined in max Voltage and max energy ( sorry for the radical simplification ).
If your choice is a diode capable of withstand a hi voltage spike, the consequence is a diode with a high Vf. During the discharge of a Pb accumulator the voltage drops below 10 Volt if you use all the capacity ( when you calculate the time of operation under battery remember to considerate not only the nominal capacity in Ah but also age and temperature ), so subtracting one other volt ( Shottky diode with a Vr of 600V ) may fall under the min supply voltage of the electronics.
If your choice is a low drop Shottky (STPS60L45CW) ( less than 0.3V at 30A ) the spikes can destroy the diode itself (also a high reverse voltage diode can be affected )
The answer is to add a capacitor ( 10.000 microFarad, 50V, 125 ?C ) and a spike suppressor ( 2 x BZW5015, max clamp voltage 35V, max spike energy 5KW) both in parallel to the main bus.
They are sigle failure components but the security factor of more than tree gives the compliance with the norm.
Adding the protections permit also to start and stop the motor and alternator with the electronic on. ( alternator field absorbs 5A ).
The component codes refers to a 12V circuit.
Claudio
 
Hi Yves,
I will try to introduce an argument adding more reliability to aircraft electronics.
Using diodes in the power supply path ( series) will subtract some tension to the equipment. The relevant data of Shottky diodes in this application are Vf ( forward voltage drop at the max current used ) Vr ( reverse voltage supported by the diode ) If ( direct current supported ).
The most frequent failure of diodes is related to spikes ( inductive load switched, the worst is the alternator and alt. field in case of alternator failure ). Spikes are defined in max Voltage and max energy ( sorry for the radical simplification ).
If your choice is a diode capable of withstand a hi voltage spike, the consequence is a diode with a high Vf. During the discharge of a Pb accumulator the voltage drops below 10 Volt if you use all the capacity ( when you calculate the time of operation under battery remember to considerate not only the nominal capacity in Ah but also age and temperature ), so subtracting one other volt ( Shottky diode with a Vr of 600V ) may fall under the min supply voltage of the electronics.
If your choice is a low drop Shottky (STPS60L45CW) ( less than 0.3V at 30A ) the spikes can destroy the diode itself (also a high reverse voltage diode can be affected )
The answer is to add a capacitor ( 10.000 microFarad, 50V, 125 °C ) and a spike suppressor ( 2 x BZW5015, max clamp voltage 35V, max spike energy 5KW) both in parallel to the main bus.
They are sigle failure components but the security factor of more than tree gives the compliance with the norm.
Adding the protections permit also to start and stop the motor and alternator with the electronic on. ( alternator field absorbs 5A ).
The component codes refers to a 12V circuit.
Claudio

Hi Claudio,
thank you for your thoughts. I also realized that my setup was not the best solution. The diodes came only into play as I had to install a backup battery to meet the 30min requirement for the second Magnetometer.


But in the last days I have realized, that I anyway have to check the backup battery before taking off. So the keepalive power of the GAD-27 is more or less obsolete as I can use the passthrough of the TCW IBBS. This setup will eliminate the two diodes on the lower right. I have only installed them to be able to power my PFD/ADAHRS and Engine Monitor either by the Essential Bus, Keepalive PWR or Backup IIBS Battery.


The remaining diodes are for redundancy they power my essential bus from the avionics bus. Either one can handle the full amps which can be drawn from the essential bus. The drop would be 0.55V at 25A (the max possible current would be 12.94A if all the equipment on the essential would run and transmit together).

As I do have a Earth X the nominal voltage is 13.28V and also the discharge curve looks a bit different than with a pb battery. So I don`t think that I will go that low on voltage with this setup.

What do you think of my diode?
https://www.distrelec.ch/Web/Downloads/r_/ds/sbx2540_eng_ger_ds.pdf

But thank you for your inputs!
 
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ANL Fuses

Yves,
You are showing 2 x ANL 60 amp fuses between the starter contactor and battery contactor. An ANL fuse is more properly used as a "current limiter". According to Bob Nuckolls, the purpose of this device on the alternator B lead is to protect the system from a catastrophic alternator failure that will cause many hundreds of amps to flow from the battery. The ANL fuse is a device that still behaves like a fuse but has a much longer time constant. So I think the proper place for the ANL fuse is on the alternator B lead as you have shown.

However you also show another one going to the main power bus. I'm not sure this is a good application for this device with a long time constant. In addition, with the mounting base it needs, it's heavy and bulky. I think you need "normal" fuse or a 60 amp circuit breaker here with a short time constant.

Here's some more information from Bob Nuckolls:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/anl/anlvsjjs.html
 
Yves,
You are showing 2 x ANL 60 amp fuses between the starter contactor and battery contactor. An ANL fuse is more properly used as a "current limiter". According to Bob Nuckolls, the purpose of this device on the alternator B lead is to protect the system from a catastrophic alternator failure that will cause many hundreds of amps to flow from the battery. The ANL fuse is a device that still behaves like a fuse but has a much longer time constant. So I think the proper place for the ANL fuse is on the alternator B lead as you have shown.

However you also show another one going to the main power bus. I'm not sure this is a good application for this device with a long time constant. In addition, with the mounting base it needs, it's heavy and bulky. I think you need "normal" fuse or a 60 amp circuit breaker here with a short time constant.

Here's some more information from Bob Nuckolls:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/anl/anlvsjjs.html

Hi Terry,

thank you for your Reply. In most certified Aircraft I have seen, the line between the battery contactor and the main power bus is not protected at all. My Idea was to protect the line as close to the battery contactor as possible as the possiblities to make a short is higher where it penetrates the firewall and gear Tower than on the main power bus. But yes after reading the article… it doesn`thurt but does either not add a lot of protection.

Or do you have some datasheet to compare a CB and a ANL Time-current curve?
 
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Hi Terry,

thank you for your Reply. In most certified Aircraft I have seen, the line between the battery contactor and the main power bus is not protected at all. But my build advisor suggested that I should put at least a ANL fuse in this line. A standard CB also has a trip time from 2-35sec at 200% of the rated current. Not much longer than a ANL (at least from the datasheet I have seen). My Idea was to protect the line as close to the battery contactor as possible as the possiblities to make a short is higher where it penetrates the firewall and gear Tower than on the main power bus.

Or do you have some datasheet to compare a CB and a ANL Time-current curve?

No I don't have comparison datasheets, sorry. It looks like you have considered the requirements and may have already installed the ANL fuses, so it should work as you have described.
 
Yes the thread was started 3 years ago and the fuses and electrical system are already installed. But nevertheless I am always open to learn more and improve if necessary.

Thanks anyway!
 
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